It's not sheared.
Homelite super xl won't run
- Thread starter johnboyy7
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Which a socket and wrench.
I can say that there is spark when I pull the plug out, connect spark plug wire and I can see it firing when I pull rope. I also used a spark plug tester that showed I was getting fire.
I will try the spark plug gap tomor or sat.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
How do you know?
There are several ways to tell if points or electronic ignition. Is there a wire going from coil to behind flywheel? If so points. If no, electronic.
Since you had coil off, if electronic ignition, coil to flywheel gap must be set. Setting is .015. If set to wide poor or no spark.
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hard to believe that saw has spark and won't fire on ether unless the flywheel key is sheared. Maybe it's badly flooded.
The sprocket should turn freely if the saw is not running. By "drive shaft" I think you mean crankshaft. I believe this saw has a slot in the flywheel and in the crank shaft and the key is separate. The taper on the shaft is what locks the flywheel to the crank so if the flywheel is bolted on, the crank shaft should turn. The key is what locates the flywheel on the crankshaft for correct ignition timing. As already mentioned, check the gap between the coil and the flywheel by inserting a business card between the two and then tightening the coil mounting screws - should be a gap of about .010". Have you tried priming the carb with some mixed fuel? Is there fuel in the tank and is the fuel line/ filter submerged in the fuel? Is there any damage to the fuel line? Did you install a new gasket or use some sort of sealer? If sealer clogged the impulse passage the carb won't pump up any fuel from the tank.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
As he said, the flywheel key just holds the flywheel in place while the nut is torqued down. If not torqued properly, the flywheel can shift and shear the key. It doesn't mean that the flywheel will spin freely, it will still be fairly tight, the shaft will still move with the flywheel, if electronic ignition, it will still spark, just at the wrong time.
To properly tighten the flywheel nut, the engine should be locked, or an impact wrench be used , to tighten the
nut sufficiently.
So you should remove the nut and visually inspect the key, and then tighten it correctly.
There will now be a long chitstorm over the impact wrench suggestion, because there will be tales of morons with no common sense that have torn up something with an impact wrench.
Actually I use my battery drill/driver, that has {impact-action}, It even is powerful enough to do most clutches.
If not, I'll fire up the air compressor.
To properly tighten the flywheel nut, the engine should be locked, or an impact wrench be used , to tighten the
nut sufficiently.
So you should remove the nut and visually inspect the key, and then tighten it correctly.
There will now be a long chitstorm over the impact wrench suggestion, because there will be tales of morons with no common sense that have torn up something with an impact wrench.
Actually I use my battery drill/driver, that has {impact-action}, It even is powerful enough to do most clutches.
If not, I'll fire up the air compressor.
Because I checked, again.
Yes. Crankshaft.
I checked gap in between flywheel and coil. This is where magnet on fly passes by, correct? If so, it's a bit tighter than a business card.
Fuel in tank, full. Line looks good.
Reused gasket in between carb and reed valve holder.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
Good.... Just so you checked again.
I was doing it to try and help you.
So it is electronic ignition?
Opened plug to 1/4 inch, it's basically setting at a 45 degree angle. The spark jumps to the sides of the electrode instead of tip now. (Path of least resistance or just plain shortest distance). My wife said she thought a couple made it to tip.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
My wife says that to try to make me feel better....
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
In the spirit of trying to help you, can you take a quick pic of the saw?
If not, was there any electronic gizmos under the flywheel, or just the module beside it, that are in line with the rotating magnets?
You say that you replaced the "case", can you take a pic of the old one?
If not, was there any electronic gizmos under the flywheel, or just the module beside it, that are in line with the rotating magnets?
You say that you replaced the "case", can you take a pic of the old one?
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
Is this the saw that we are talking about?
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
Or, is it more like this model?
I am thinking that it is more like this one.....
I am thinking that it is more like this one.....
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
But, until you give us more info.....
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,210
- Reaction score
- 25,092
Sounds like it is the latter model, and the oil lines have put oil in the engine, or the carb is flooding.
After re-reading your first post.
Since your flywheel key is fine.....
