Homelite xp1050 Porting

[Ohioriverrat]

Hey everybody. Long time lurker, first time poster. I hope this is in the right place. If not, please let me know, I want to play by the rules here.

I am currently in the process of rebuilding a homelite super 1050 auto that came to me in pieces. In the process of putting everything together, there was a washer was in the crankcase and while turning the saw over by hand to do a compression test it became lodged between the piston and intake port. Yes, I screwed up, i checked but did not see it.
Anyhow, the dent left in the intake port is at most, 1/8 inch by 1/8 inch. I have ordered a new piston and rings, however I am left with dealing with the cylinder since these are practically impossible to find reasonably cheap. In my mind, there are two options.
1: JB weld the dent and then grind down just enough so the rings dont ride against it effectively closing the port. My fear is that this is temporary and will someday come loose and wreck the top end.
2: do a mild port job, clean up the flash casting, base gasket delete (after quench check of course), and raise the exhaust port ceiling about .030 (this will be relative to how much is gained from BGD.)

Having never messed with port timing, my hope is that some experts here will be able to give me some informed opinions on how to properly proceed. I have done a lot of searching on this forum and much of the porting info has to do with piston ported engines.

I have posted about this build with pictures over at house of homelite, here is the specific thread: http://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/6944/another-super-1050

Thanks to anyone that can help me out. It's greatly appreciated.

 

[pioneerguy600]

On something like this I have successfuly just relieved the dented area, lower it just enough the ring will slide over it with out scraping and just leave it. I have done repairs like this on a good many chainsaws and they ran just fine afterward, such a small area will have almost no affect on the workability of the engine.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

On something like this I have successfuly just relieved the dented area, lower it just enough the ring will slide over it with out scraping and just leave it. I have done repairs like this on a good many chainsaws and they ran just fine afterward, such a small area will have almost no affect on the workability of the engine.

Hmm, okay. You dont think the raised intake port will affect timing? Granted, its a very narrow portion but still.
I suppose i am being overly cautious. I only want to do this once and want to male sure the saw runs properly.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

 

[pioneerguy600]

You will never notice that small area. Forgot to ask, is it the top or bottom of the intake? Wouldn`t really matter though , it would be far better leaving a small divot than grinding out the whole width of the port, that would affect timing area much more. Others will chime in with their opinions but my advice comes from actual experience.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

You will never notice that small area. Forgot to ask, is it the top or bottom of the intake? Wouldn`t really matter though , it would be far better leaving a small divot than grinding out the whole width of the port, that would affect timing area much more. Others will chime in with their opinions but my advice comes from actual experience.

And that's why i ask, i have none messing with timing on 2 strokes. My intent wasnt to open all of the ports that much, but to smooth it over and raise the ceiling of the exhaust.
Its the top of the port in the very corner. Detailed pics are in the link attached above

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

 

[Ohioriverrat]

Also, thanks a lot for your help. I have asked around in many places and not many people seem to eager to respond. It's appreciated

 

[pioneerguy600]

The saw you are dealing with is not a popular model and many on these forums that do port work have ever seen one. There are a few that are familiar with them on a mechanical basis that don`t do any porting but mainly rebuild or restore the older saws. Since the 1050 is a pyramid 4 reed induction saw very little port work is done with them, most port work is done on piston ported engines so the title of your thread may have kept others from responding so far.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

The saw you are dealing with is not a popular model and many on these forums that do port work have ever seen one. There are a few that are familiar with them on a mechanical basis that don`t do any porting but mainly rebuild or restore the older saws. Since the 1050 is a pyramid 4 reed induction saw very little port work is done with them, most port work is done on piston ported engines so the title of your thread may have kept others from responding so far.

Fair enough. Do reed intake saws perform better than piston ported saws?

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

 

[pioneerguy600]

Fair enough. Do reed intake saws perform better than piston ported saws?

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk

Reed valved saws have more torque/grunt at lower RPM`s, they usually used heavier constructed chain with bigger cutters, the .404 was a common chain size in both chisel, semi chisel and chipper styles. Older reed saws even used larger chain in the 7/16", 1/2" and 9/16" ranges, they could pull those bigger cutters all be it much slower than modern piston ported engines that run at higher RPM`s, higher RPM along with lighter constructed chain makes for faster and smoother cutting.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

okay. So do reed systems inherently limit airflow into the crankcase?
I converted an old c51 to a pyramid reed set up because the big single reed and cage couldnt flow anything at all. That made a huge difference and it picked up better throttle response and a little bit more rpms

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes, it is more difficult but not impossible to increase the incoming charge on a reed valve saw, bigger reeds or more of them which relates to opening up the access to incoming charge of air fuel mix. It is limited the amount this can be increased but changing a two reed over to a three or four is beneficial.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

okay. so porting this saw isnt going to make much of a difference without going all out i assume.

 

[pioneerguy600]

It never hurts to get more charge into the cylinder but the reed valve saws are basically choked down by how much one can get through the reed structure itself, making the cylinder ports larger past the reed cage will not see much if any improvement unless the exhaust port is really restricted/small. Most reed valve saws I have worked over had adequate ports and their mufflers were not restricted. Making larger reed cages, larger reed valves and or changing the steel valves out for more performance like materials like the Boyesan reeds , single or two stage type helped more than making bigger ports.

 

[Ohioriverrat]

Well, i cleaned up the dent and spent some time smoothing out the exhaust port and widening it a little. As far as im concerned its readt to go back on the saw.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk