That would work. The one I built can mill down to 1/4" thick.
HomeMade Alaska Mill
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That would work. The one I built can mill down to 1/4" thick.
If the mill frame cross members are attached above the mill frame rails, the bar clamps should be able to be retracted back past the mill frame rails so you can cut a zero thickness slab.
This is even easier if no bar clamps are used instead just bolt the bar to the mill frame upright.
This also makes it possible to remove the chain from the saw without removing the saw from the mill.
PoulanInPA
ArboristSite Member
What sizes of square tubing did you use, and was there any trouble getting them to sleeve/telescope together?
On one of my bigger mills I used round Al tubing - can't remember the sizes but there are so many sizes available finding telescoping tubing was easy. However, Al in contact with Al is not a good idea so I used a PVC sleeve in between which is oiled regularly and this has worked well. My other big mill uses Unistrut and no telescoping.
The first (small) mill I made uses telescoping tubing but I'm pretty sure it was metric size tubing so its not going to help you much.
The telescoping fit can be quite loose provided corner located locking bolts/nuts are used.
This forces the internal tube up against the opposite inside corner of the external tube.
This has the added advantage of not crushing the inner tube which happened on my small mill. I've made devices which use corner locking bolts and the work really well. There's less rattle and movement.
If you want to be extra safe use two bolts.
caffeine1fg
ArboristSite Operative
I've been hoarding salvaged structural aluminum and alloy tubing at work. This thread may inspire me to build a mill. Thanks for sharing your work.
Great job too.
Great job too.
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