Hi all. So, I have just been wondering if anyone here has made a chain guard for a chainsaw. Or is there anything one needs to know about making one, such as materials to use, not to use? They are cheap enough, and could probably find one, but I like to play around, and seeing as winter is quickly approaching, I will have time available... I was thinking something simple and easy. This is just for my old Mastercraft/Poulan 2300 16". What I had in mind, which just kind of just came to me, since election time is here now, would be plastic sign board folded and zip tied along one edge. It does not absorb water, and being zip tied along one edge, I could put that edge to the bottom, and quite possibly, I would somehow add a spot for a file, plug wrench, and spare plug. Any input, help, or opinions are greatly welcome. Thank you.
Homemade Chainsaw Chain Guard
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I made a couple out of 1/4" plywood with a thin spacer around the outside but switched to plastic when I moved to newer saws. I think I read about someone using plastic tubing -slit open so it fits over the chain and can be bent around the bar.
Maybe cheaper and faster just to buy a Stihl chain gaurd, that's what we use.
Steve
Steve
I’ve seen a few made outa old fire hose, worked ok. Fact is, they’re anywhere from $5 to $10, hard to beat at that price.
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A couple of years ago, an Ace Hardware store had a clearance section. I happened upon it and saw that they had various Stihl chain guards on sale.
$5.00 ea. I bought about 5 of them, ranging from 14" to 38" in length.
$5.00 ea. I bought about 5 of them, ranging from 14" to 38" in length.
Thanks for the info so far. I have seen them and yes, they're cheap to buy, just that I have a bunch of time this winter to play around, and that is something I like to do. That is the main reason I am asking. Little fun projects keeps me out of the old lady's hair, and gives me something to spend time with my dad to do.
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I have made them out of thin veneer panel wood with the appropriate size rope bonded and sandwiched between 2 shaped side pieces. Structural adhesive in a tube like "no-more-nails" will bond damn near anything except smooth plastics.
But you a bunch of saws that need major rebuilds, that will keep ya busy. Me and my mom used to do wood working together before she got Alzheimer, lived for 9 years in and prison in her mind before she passed. I still miss doing wood working projects with her.
Steve
Steve
Bobby Kirbos
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I agree, making them is more trouble than it is worth. My local Echo dealer has 20" scabbards for under $6 out the door. Cut them down to 12" (in 2" increments) as needed.
Here's a 25" chain guard bar that I made a few years back using walnut. I designed it so that the Stihl carrying case would enclose it and hold it tight, just like the plastic 20" guard that came with the case:
Five pieces are required: two sides, two rails, and the nose. Glue holds it together. I used a bunch of clamps while the glue dried. Then I splashed on three coats of varnish. As I recall, the sides were 1/4" thick, and the rails and nose were both 5/16" thick to accommodate the chain. The nose kind of looks like a crescent moon. Later I drilled a hole near the top of the tail end to hold a cord so that I could tie it to the saw's handlebar as an option to using the plastic case. I've made these out of ash also. About any good hardwood will do.
Five pieces are required: two sides, two rails, and the nose. Glue holds it together. I used a bunch of clamps while the glue dried. Then I splashed on three coats of varnish. As I recall, the sides were 1/4" thick, and the rails and nose were both 5/16" thick to accommodate the chain. The nose kind of looks like a crescent moon. Later I drilled a hole near the top of the tail end to hold a cord so that I could tie it to the saw's handlebar as an option to using the plastic case. I've made these out of ash also. About any good hardwood will do.
Being a fireman we have fire hose that may have been damaged or have a leak. Fire hose is what I have been using for years.Head to your nearest fire department and ask.I am sure that 90% will gladly help you out.
I wrapped up a bar and chain with corrugated cardboard and duct tape for one of my repair customers, a lady. She used it for a year and got along OK.
That highly valuable guard may be worth more than the saw!
One thing to be careful when using wood - make sure it is very dry. Some woods like cherry, walnut, or oak could cause corrosion due to the acid content.
D
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Echo does make a nice one. Do not bow in at opening.
Thank you again for all the help and replies. I will try our local volunteer fire department when I see someone there one day. As well, for the time being, I like the looks of the wooden one pictured by Wood Doctor, and I may try this one in the interm, weather permitting. Dad has the table saw to cut the wood, but it is currently put away for winter and is tucked away in his shed. But it looks like it will get nicer late this week so I will hopefully have a chance to dig it out and we can start on the project. As for wood being dry, I have a half of a interior hollow core door that I use for building my models with that should fit the bill, as it is from the mid 80's, so it should be dry. I doubt mine will look anything as good or nice as Wood Doctors, but I am mainly just looking for something to protect the chain. The saw it is for will probably not see much use at all. Thanks again and I will update this as I move along.
I have made a few using 1/4" thick masonite for the sides and 5/16" thick hardwood for the rails and nose. That also works. Remember, however, that it will never be lighter in weight than plastic.
Thanks again for the tip. I am not sure of what type of wood I will be using, other than from one side of an interior hollow core door. As for the spacer, as a modeller, I have a stick of spruce 5/16" thick I believe that I will use, and a few shorter pieces in the nose area so I can round it off slightly like yours.
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