How best to bring a dead leaner down

[computeruser]

Any suggestions on how best to get the tree that is missing bark safely down on the ground? It is located in a nature preserve and a walking trail runs right beneath it. I was planning on leaving it and letting it fall on its own, but this past weekend I saw some kids trying to set up a rope swing on it, so it should probably be removed before it becomes more of a liability than it already is.

I have no way to get log pulling power equipment to this site, but if I can wait until our June workday I can get a group of a dozen or so guys on a rope to pull on the tree. My planned cut, pull plan is shown on the picture. I think this is probably the best way to do it, but I would welcome other suggestions.

Though the picture doesn't really show it, the tree is roughly 24" diameter up until it branches out.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

If you cut at the red, the trunk will drop to the ground. Then you are going to pull it towards another tree?

I don't quite understand what that's going to do for you. Also, I question being able to pull that much weight along the ground with a team of men pulling on a rope. That's a lot of weight.

 

[computeruser]

I'm not sure if my proposed cut and pull plan is very good, but I can't think of anything better that doesn't involve cutting from the downhill side of the tree. I am thinking that if the tree is pulled in the red direction while being cut at the green mark, it might rotate enough to break off/fall out of the trees that it is hung in...maybe.

If anyone has a better suggestion, I'd be thrilled to hear it.

 

[CaseyForrest]

How about a come-a-long?

 

[begleytree]

Just start at the bottom and undercut it all the way through. keep doing that cutting firewood size blocks. It should roll out for you. We do a lot of those things here.
-Ralph

 

[treeseer]

Ralph's got the easiest safest way but yes still be careful--PPE and sharp eyes.

 

[jp hallman]

Just start at the bottom and undercut it all the way through. keep doing that cutting firewood size blocks. It should roll out for you. We do a lot of those things here.
-Ralph

Good way, alternative of the same cut. Cut a third of the way, or so, down from the top. Then finish the cut up from the bottom. Less chance of pinching your bar.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i see relief as Up and Left(?).

i think i'd go with longer than firewood size, depending on safety of cutting height though. i think that if we scribe a wall board and it breaks clean that is from the leverage working from both sides of the scribe, to the only weakness of the scribe. i think if the wallboard was all the same thickness as wallboard left after the scribe; there wouldn't be all strength from both sides funneling into find single, small area of relief. So if whole board was as thick as scribed part, it wouldn't break so easily; for it wouldn't be weakspot, nor have stiffer pieces pushing into that weakness! So, i think we'd want more leverage on stump side (for more push from that side)so a little farther from there than firewood length. This would also put less flex at spar above cut(that would be usually thinner/ more flexible and have more force on it)than the lower part of spar you were placing the more leverage on); to hopefully place flex at cut; with stiff power coming from both sides.

i'd make narrow face up, then widen left side of the face to offer path of least resistance to that side on the 'scribe' in spar, and kerf right side of face. Then cut upwards; trying to close right side, so that it and supporting tree pushed left. While the left side of the face was calling it that way as only point of relief (in tandem with more relief from supporting tree on that side) and also as left corner of face was pulling it left too. Once the joint is loaded(as spar fails and begins to think about moving), we can work push and pull forces to equal force in hung spar). Here we work them in tandem; not one at a time(usually we work them one at a time with full face open , then full face closed, instead of this mix of 1 side open and one side close). Force loaded into open area pulling, while force loaded into close area pushes as the workable, mechanical commands to give system with saw.

Also, we work the 2 forces in opposite directions; with push apart and pull together commands; if they were inline; they would fight and lessen each other; spread apart they give tourque(as the forward part of a wheel moves down as the opposite side moves up); more efficient use of the same amount of useable force (whose capacity is to only match the leveraged force of spar).

i think this folding would be easier to trigger to failure, to self work the rest of the way; as you were out of the batter's box. If i pulled with rope it would be straight ahead more, to make tree 'heavier' in that direction or to left s-lightly; and force more flexing of the hinge earlier without cutter in batter's box; and trusting push in face and pull in hinge forces to correctly guide it.

Pulling to steer away from front of hinge unloads / replaces the automatically responding hinge power(with your force); pulling inline with hinge loads it, and empowers hinge's corrective forces(multiplier of your force) more IMLHO.


Or, something like that

 

[rebelman]

Set your pull rope higher in the leaner, near where it branches out. You can do this with a pole hook or throwball. I think you'll have a better chance of knocking it loose in one cut that way, pulling manually. Many things can go wrong, though, like your rope getting stuck over the little tree, and one of your men pulling getting his ankle wrapped. Just some things to consider.

 

[wradman]

wow

look man just use your thinker ,think about the forces and gravity , make a plan don't work alone all you need is a chainsaw and if you prefer a spotter
3minutes to put it on the ground and about 30 minutes to chunk it up.

 

[jp hallman]

Thought about this and then looked at the pics again. Then read Spyder's post and told myself once again."I'm glad I'm not in a bar listening to that dude".
My take on the issue. Leave the tree be. The kids playing in it will be grown men before that thing comes down. It's hung up and solid. If you really, really want to take it down, "Texas Bi_ch Cut", the thing down.

 

[smokechase II]

makin sawdust for a wage

After the first cut off the stump.
You can put a pie cut in opposite the way you want it to go, then do your cut angled up from the bottom. This to move it with each cut toward a side that can bring it out of the tree that it is in quicker.
General rule; don't walk a tree straight toward what it is hanging in.
This pie (reverse face of sorts) allows the stem space to close as it drops. So be ready for settling a little faster than if just underbucking.
This gets more dangerous as you get more vertical.
Film at 11:00
Thanks

For heavens sake, don't leave it there. That would be wasting it.
You're not here for the good of those squirrels that are aging and need a 45 degree angle to get into the canopy.

 

[pbtree]

Just start at the bottom and undercut it all the way through. keep doing that cutting firewood size blocks. It should roll out for you. We do a lot of those things here.
-Ralph

Sound like the winning suggestion to me!

 

[stihlatit]

Sound like the winning suggestion to me!

What are you trying to say here PB. I thought you said Slowsuki was hard to understand.

 

[pbtree]

What are you trying to say here PB. I thought you said Slowsuki was hard to understand.

Was Ralph's post that hard for you to understand?
I agree that undercutting the trunk is the best of the suggestions posed in this thread.
Do you have another idea?

 

[stihlatit]

Was Ralph's post that hard for you to understand?
I agree that undercutting the trunk is the best of the suggestions posed in this thread.
Do you have another idea?

No Ralph made sense it was yours that makes no sense.

 

[climbtrees.couk]

Hung up tree

Leave it where it is and divert the footpath. The wildlife will love it.

Mac

 

[wradman]

ok

Leave it where it is and divert the footpath. The wildlife will love it.

Mac

You know what i like killing trees but this is not a bad idea if the terrain permits but you will have to ribbon off the dangerous area, or you could be setting yourself up for trouble.

 

[jmack]

tape

Any suggestions on how best to get the tree that is missing bark safely down on the ground? It is located in a nature preserve and a walking trail runs right beneath it. I was planning on leaving it and letting it fall on its own, but this past weekend I saw some kids trying to set up a rope swing on it, so it should probably be removed before it becomes more of a liability than it already is.

I have no way to get log pulling power equipment to this site, but if I can wait until our June workday I can get a group of a dozen or so guys on a rope to pull on the tree. My planned cut, pull plan is shown on the picture. I think this is probably the best way to do it, but I would welcome other suggestions.

Though the picture doesn't really show it, the tree is roughly 24" diameter up until it branches out.

call the preserve tell what you saw especially with the kids and have them send there crew, even for a muni crew following the winning work plan your talking 45mins

 

[Avery]

Pictures?

Why can't I see any photo(s)?