Oldman47
ArboristSite Guru
It may well be out of character but sometimes it is all that is needed.
how best to bucking small diameter, bent wood, and lots of it?
- Thread starter KiwiBro
- Start date
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Mine are made that way - not as pretty, but I sometimes hit things while cutting!
Philbert
There are no miter cuts in these plans. Miter joints are notoriously weak, so I avoided them entirely. I have no idea where you are coming from.
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
Yeah, you can buy a corded electric Remington chainsaw at Menards for $60 that will cut a stick or two. You better sell those Stihl saws and get down there during 11% off days! 
But, I can never find electricity available out where I work. So, what most guys buy are Poulan Wild Things and use them for a few hours until they give up. Then they give them to me to fix.Yeah, you can buy a corded electric Remington chainsaw at Menards for $60 that will cut a stick or two. You better sell those Stihl saws and get down there during 11% off days!
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
That's a great racket... you can sell them to the next guy coming down the street looking to save a few bucks!
Wait... you mean they actually make replacement parts for those things?
Believe it or not, they do, but replacement parts add up rapidly to more than the saw cost them initially. So, if parts are involved that I cannot cannibalize from a parted out saw, the broken saw is usually parted out also.
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
Yeah, I couldn't imagine that a $90 saw could be repaired for less than a new one, without scrounging parts off another one.
I did own one, briefly. Customer gave me one he bought and only used a few times, thought I might want it. I used it to grind small stumps out, until I finally couldn't sharpen the chain anymore and the bar was looking pretty sad. It was still running, so I gave it to a friend for parts. Maybe they have other models that aren't so cheaply made, I really don't know.
Here's a variation of the sawhorse I linked in Post #45:
Philbert
Philbert
The only other criticism that I immediately see is that is seems far too easy to run the saw down into the long center beam. That beam is going to get beat up with cut marks all over it.
Agreed. I commented that I would probably raise each of the 'tilting cups' up on an extra block of 2X scrap to provide additional clearance for the saw. Still, that 2X10 (or whatever it is) might be something that gets replaced every few years. I like the idea, but I also like the metal cups, shown in the earlier video, better, and would like a more stable base (watch how it moves when he cuts).
Philbert
I also noticed that the base moved as he worked, rocking, That would drive me bonkers. The T-shaped legs set this movement up, resting on a ground that was not level or flat, and seldom will it ever be level or flat. If you look at your sawbuck and the Pics that I posted for my sawbuck, the horizontal rails are at least 5" further down from the bottom of the V that supports the limbs or logs.
I can just see a big guy dropping a saw down on that beam and cutting it right in half. It's a nice idea to supply a dump-wheelbarrow system of scoops, but I say back to the drawing board for that vertical beam tolerance.
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