How can you tell pro stihl saws from homeowners?

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For the older saws: just look for a gap between the air filter cover and the top cover. Only exception is the 270/280 class, but those are odd ducks anyway.

The newer 261 or 441 type saws lost this distinction, though.
 
I thought there were two cues.
1) not sold in a big-box (only for the elite, like you)
2) price- if it made you cringe. But that's been spreading down-scale. $350 for a 250 now, really. Creative rating of 3 hp, though.
 
a rule of thumb on the older # system was the even #s back then were pro saws, 024,026,034,036,044,046,064,066,088 if this helps in your question, when they went to the ms (magnum series) or ("Moto Sagen" which is german for power saw ) they put the zero on the end of the # and later on a few new model chassis were developed added the number 1 after these pro series #s 261,361,461,and now 661

most of your homeowner saws have higher ending odd#s 017,029,039 etc
This is what I go by.

"0"-series - Last digit is even
MS series - Middle digit is even
 
In that case all Stihl makes is pro saws.


Sent from my AutoTune carb


I always try to keep an open mind when it comes to buying quality merchandise. You get what you pay for. It's not all that often that the price of something shakes me to my core.

But, whenever I go to a STIHL dealer, I pretty much leave in such an upset state, that it takes a day or two for my body to recover and feel normal again.
 
I thought anything with a clamshell engine was a non-pro saw and anything that had the cylinder bolted to the crank case was a pro saw. At least that's what I thought.
 
if the case is splitable and the cylinder is bolted on then its a pro saw,,, if it has a clam shell engine then it is a home owner saw
 
i though all the bigger stuff would be consider PRO saws, and they made some smaller ones that were built better and they said PRO on them. they made an 026 and a 026 pro, i believe they both have metal cases. pro models had better air filtration
 
i though all the bigger stuff would be consider PRO saws, and they made some smaller ones that were built better and they said PRO on them. they made an 026 and a 026 pro, i believe they both have metal cases. pro models had better air filtration

With the 026/260 and the 026pro/260 pro the only differences were the "pro" version has an adjustable clutch operated oiler and a compression release. I have saws that size with a compression release and some that don't. None of them get used. The oiler issue isn't in my opinion. I guess if you leave your saw idling for extended periods, the clutch operated oiler is nice but if I'm going to be doing something that is going to take longer than 15 seconds or so, I shut the saw off.

Some of the 044 and 066 saws didn't have compression releases. Not many will argue that it wasn't a pro saw. To be honest, some of it is marketing. And the durability issue is a mute point for most users. Not many people on this forum have "worn out" a homeowner or rancher/farmer saw. Most of the saws die from piston scoring due to fuel mix or tuning issues. A pro saw is typically going to have a better power/weight ratio and maybe be a little easier to work on. I use all classes of saws for my tree service. A well maintained saw with a sharp chain and a skilled user makes more of a difference than what some brochure somewhere says.
 
With the 026/260 and the 026pro/260 pro the only differences were the "pro" version has an adjustable clutch operated oiler and a compression release. I have saws that size with a compression release and some that don't. None of them get used. The oiler issue isn't in my opinion. I guess if you leave your saw idling for extended periods, the clutch operated oiler is nice but if I'm going to be doing something that is going to take longer than 15 seconds or so, I shut the saw off.

Some of the 044 and 066 saws didn't have compression releases. Not many will argue that it wasn't a pro saw. To be honest, some of it is marketing. And the durability issue is a mute point for most users. Not many people on this forum have "worn out" a homeowner or rancher/farmer saw. Most of the saws die from piston scoring due to fuel mix or tuning issues. A pro saw is typically going to have a better power/weight ratio and maybe be a little easier to work on. I use all classes of saws for my tree service. A well maintained saw with a sharp chain and a skilled user makes more of a difference than what some brochure somewhere says.
yeah i never use the de comp valve on my saws and dont think it would be needed on a 026, i agree with everything you wrote. just like the" magnum" is it just a name or is there a difference? you can buy the pro stickers on ebay for $11.95 if you want to turn a saw into a "pro" saw
 
yeah i never use the de comp valve on my saws and dont think it would be needed on a 026, i agree with everything you wrote. just like the" magnum" is it just a name or is there a difference? you can buy the pro stickers on ebay for $11.95 if you want to turn a saw into a "pro" saw
i'll take 12 bucks worth o beer...
 
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