How do I get that "self feeding" back into my chain?

[tramp bushler]

Thumbs go around the handle bars

If you keep your thumbs wrapped around the handle bar and pistol grip you don,t need anti kick back chain ....
. Anti kick back chains protect the company and dealers who make and sell saws and chains ..........
.. Lawyers seldom help citizens .So pitch their crap in the bay and get some good chain that is designed to cut .......

 

[Inno]

First post here but I thought I'd share what I do to keep things sharp.

I use a guide (I think it was from Stihl) which helps keep the file at the right angle and prevents you from going in too deep. Always using both hands on the file so it doesn't wander.
I also clamp the bar in a vice to keep it from moving around and make very even strokes, one way only, no dragging the file backwards and keep my upper body as rigid as possible and make the movement with my knees. This helps keep the file at the right level.
I also keep a wire brush close by and after every few teeth I'll clean it up so it cuts better.

I too am guilty of using it until it is so dull that I have no choice but to sharpen. Filing more often will also yield a better result and you will spend less time sharpening and less time fighting to make your saw go through the wood.

Just my $0.02

 

[Wild Knight]

I've always tried to hand file, but after I grounded out the other day I had to use my Dremel with the chainsaw angle adapter (30 degrees) to fix some cutters. I ended up using the Dremel to straighten every cutter, then gave it one stroke with the file. I got brand-new out-of-the-box performance back from my RSC chain.

 

[Mac_Muz]

To the OP.
many people have a bad time filing the other side of the cutters. One side is easy no matter if you are right or left handed... The other side is much hard, unless you flip the saw upside down.

When I file the first thing I do is look to see which side of the cutters are the most beat up. usually this is the side I file upside down. I make that side ght first and then do the easy side after turning the saw upright.

Then I look over the rakers. The reason you want to leave the rakers is to reduce kick back. A powerful saw will eat wood if you take the rakers right off, but this isn't safe for any man.

I tend to remove as much raker as i can, more than book spec, which is written by lawyers. However I still leave a good bit of the rakers to reduce chances of a kick back.

If the saw isn't a very powerful saw no rakers will just about stop any cutting at all.

These are just my opinons from my experience.

Others here have given good info on filing. Use a sharp clean file and only file one way, not dragging the file backwards over the work, or if you must lighten up the pull.

For knowing where I began I use a paint marker. This allows me to start on any cutter I want.

 

[ARsawMechanic]

Just my 2 cents worth.

I just wanted to add to the info a bit. Make sure you have the correct size file for the chain. I sharpen alot of customers chains, and it absolutely amazes me how many times I see the chain filed incorrectly due to the wrong size file. Use too small a file, you hollow out under the top plate & then the cutter "Hawkbills" & won't cut well. Too large a file, and the backsloping begins, once again, there goes cutting performance. Here's a link to a very informative article from Carlton brand saw chain. Its written by them, & of course they recommend their brand stuff, but its pretty informative overall, though it is a long read.
http://www.sawchain.com/images/complete book.pdf

 

[discounthunter]

practice,practice,practice. if sharpening a chain was easy everybody would do it and shops would be out a ton of money. i do agree i like the feel of a fresh out of box chain,but im getting close hand filing.

i usua
lly keep a new in box 16" as a backup, and take 2-3 resharpened ones when i go cut. that said my new one is almost a year old now.

 

[oxbow]

.. I,m betting you are getting a pretty good set of burrs on the outside edges of the bar ... They don,t let the bar slid down thru the kerf and so it seems the chain isn,t cutting ..........

I think tramp bushler got it right. You've sharpened it, a buddy sharpened it, a shop sharpened it. It's probably not the chain, it's the bar. Do you turn the bar over every time you sharpen? With the chain off can you feel a burr on the bar? Lay a flat file on the bar and lightly push it from the center outwards to get rid of the burr.

 

[clearance]

You're not expecting too much.
Keep filing, you'll get it down. Anyone who can't file a chain and make it out cut a new chain off the roll just needs to get some more experience filing.

Andy

This is true. Took a while, but you just get better and better, the more you do it.

 

[ghitch75]

go here and watch the vid.

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/how-to-videos/


then go a buy a kit.....if you follow the instructions you can bring you chain back to like new cuttin' performance...

 

[rarefish383]

Hey guys, I'm new to the site but am 4th generation in tree care.We've always hand sharpened and can get results equal to or better than new out of box. I'm 53 and probably started filing my own chains in my late teens and early 20's. At first I just followed the guide mark cut on the top of the tooth, some times I might let the file run a little uphill and some times down, and it would still cut well. I don't mean uphill on one stroke and down the next. I would experiment one angle till the chain was used up, and then try a slightly different angle. To get a usable edge, I mean one you're happy with, it doesn't have to be perfect. If your into performance and race saws that's a whole different world. I think one important thing is to keep your strokes dead the same. Don't let the file go uphill on one stroke and down on the next. Even if you're off a few degrees it will take several sharpenings to start to muck up the chain. We always called the rakers drag teeth. Every now and then we'd lay a file along the top of the teeth and when the drags started to hold the file higher than the cutters we'd knock them down a little. I'd only do that maybe 3 times on a chain then toss it. Some guys like to take the drags way down, I just like to have them a little lower than the cutter. Good sharp files. You can feel a sharp file cut. If you hit rock it acts like it hardens the steel, the first 3 or 4 strokes will feel like the file is sliding on ice, then it will get through the hardness and start cutting again. If your file feels like it's just sliding and not cutting get a new file. Just like a sharp saw a sharp file does not take a lot of force. Every 2 or 3 strokes rotate the file in your hand and tap it acroos the bar to knock the filings out of the file teeth.

I went back to the top of the post. If you're sharpening after every tank or 2 you must be getting into dirt, wether breaking through, or just dirty logs. Saws we use in trees seldom get sharpened more than once a week and often go much longer. Ground saws can go just as long if you keep them out of the dirt.

Another thing I've noticed is on saws now a days, with all automatic oiling, when doing a lot of heavy log cutting you're not getting enough oil and over heating the bar and chain. On big wood I still use 2, 35 year old, Homelite 1050's, with bars from 2 to 4 foot. I want to go through 1 tank of oil to a tank of fuel, and I really like a thumb oiler. I like a saw to be over powered versus over barred. I really like my little Stihl Farm Boss 290 with the 18 inch bar, but that Homelite 1050 with a 24 bar will out cut the Stihl 2 to 1 easy.

It probably took me years to get really good at filing by hand with no guide, now my eyes are shot and it's harder to do. Keep practicing and keep the nose of your saw out of the dirt, Joe.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Started using a file-o-plate recently and the cutting is like night and day compared to my hand filing with only the file.

It takes longer, but the chain stays sharper longer too. It doesn't fade as fast as before.

Cool little pocket tool.

 

[Philbert]

So you have noticed a few opinions on this topic, eh?

Putting aside personal opinions, preferences, and beliefs, and looking at your original post, it sounds like you hand file, and want to periodically bring the chain back as close to factory specs as you can, considering the wear.

I would suggest you try either the Granberg File-N-Joint or Oregon 23736A Filing Guide. These sell for $30 - $40, clamp on your bar, and with the correct files, allow you to precisely duplicate factory angles on each cutter.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15200&catID=131

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/accessories/FilesAndSharpeningTools.pdf

You will not need to use these each time, but might want to use them occasionally to bring the cutters back to the original shape.

Philbert

 

[Dennis_Peacock]

Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.

 

[tramp bushler]

Get a new bar ,and chain , when it stops cutting which won,t be long ... File one tooth really perfact and count your strokes with the file......................... Do every tooth like that first out ,,,,,,,,

 

[Mac_Muz]

Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.

Probably the hard side for you to file has all long cutters.... I suggest clamping you saw upside down in a vice, then find a wrench that slips over the smallest cutter on the chain.

Then start filing all the long cutters to that size. I use a dob of paint to mark any cutter, rather than hunt for the one doubled set of cutters.

When all the harder cutters are files to the same size using a wrench as a guide, simply flip the saw over, find the pain mark and file all these cutters, which will be less time, since they will be smaller.

Then flip the saw if any rakers must be filed, and when that set are done flip the saw for the last time and file the rest of the rakers.

I can't tell you if you rakers need to be filed or not, but a spec sheet should come with the saw and or a new chain, which tells that info.

You may need to dress the bar from time to time, which is easy. Place the bar alone in a vise and with a finger nail feel the wire edge here and there. Be careful that wire edge can cut you easy.

Because it can cut us easy I tend to file the wire edge off first holding the file at about 45 degrees, and lightly file that edge to be smooth.

When I can't be cut any more I flatten the rails, filing easy. A light pressue works to almost polish the wire edge and flatten the rails best for me.

 

[Philbert]

Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains.

We are all good at some things, and not as good with others. If sharpening is not your thing, keep a few extra chains with you and swap them out when needed. Then take them to someone (friend or shop) to sharpen. Maybe swap them something in exchange.

Or try one of the filing or grinding jigs, until you find something that works for you.

Philbert

 

[J.W Younger]

Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.

don't pee on my foot and tell me its rainin

 

[dingeryote]

Excellent thread right here. Too bad I still suck at hand sharpening my saw chains. Crooked cuts in the logs and the bar binds in the cut.

Take a hard look at the bar if ya ain't joshin us.

I have some "Ugly chains" that have teeth all manner of length, and some missing, that are used for fencerows and stumps...and they don't bind in the cut unless I hit more wire.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Mac_Muz]

Pee comes in handy when you forgot your corrosive ammo rifle cleaner, going ta' home, when going home isn't any option, or tanning that deer, when going home still isn't any option and neither is buying anything.

Before i was TAUGHT the trick to flip saws over many times my chains cut an arc, and would bind the bar in logs.

I knew why, but didn't know the cure.

Try it sometime and you will there after always flip the saw. If you prefer filing off the saw I guess you would set the chain the other way in a vise.

Not to sure that will work or not. It isn't what I do.

 

[Philbert]

Before i was TAUGHT the trick to flip saws over many times my chains cut an arc, and would bind the bar in logs. . . . . Try it sometime and you will there after always flip the saw. If you prefer filing off the saw I guess you would set the chain the other way in a vise.

Interesting idea. Still not the same as on-side filing, but does present the off-side cutter in a different way. Will have to try it.

Rep sent for sharing the idea!

Thanks.

philbert