During the day when I'm home, I usually put 2-3 splits in every few hours. For the overnight, I pack that sucker as full as I can stuff it, get it burning real good, then slowly back the air to fully closed. This will burn and stay hot all night long.
OK,,,,, what is a EPA stove?
typical EPA stove hastubes on ceiling of the firebox with holes which connect to a constantly open source of preheated secondary air. The primary air is controled by a lever on front which preheats the air before it comes into the firebox above the glass door to feed the fire.OK,,,,, what is a EPA stove?
I am looking into trying out an EPA stove in my shop. I see a bunch of stoves on Craigslist some look old school and some have full glass view. How do you tell if its an EPA, cat stove or none at all? Most of the time people don't know, i.e. bought house with stove in it.
I have a Fisher, not sure which one but not EPA or cat style.
thanks
typical EPA stove hastubes on ceiling of the firebox with holes which connect to a constantly open source of preheated secondary air. The primary air is controled by a lever on front which preheats the air before it comes into the firebox above the glass door to feed the fire.
Note that both air sources come from above the fire at the same time that the pull of the chimnidraft is upwards. Both sources of air are preheaTED WHICH ALSO WANTS TO MAKE the air rise! Its all about air buoyancy, read my blog about "nature of fire" if u want
the preheating is seemingly counterintuitive to getting air to the fire down below but ure on the right track.The pre-heating has nothing at all to do with air buoyancy, it's all about efficient combustion. IIRC, secondary combustion requires temperatures of 1100 degrees for the combustion process to happen. If the air comes into the firebox preheated then it doesn't have to be heated up before the smoke/particulates can combust. This means that it can combust immediately rather than delaying the combustion process. If the process is delayed it allows some of the smoke/particulates to exit up the flue before secondary combustion occurs. Secondary combustion may not occur at all without preheating depending on how hot the stove is. So preheating gives you more efficient burning when secondary combustion takes place, and it permits secondary combustion to take place at lower stove temperatures.
During the day when I'm home, I usually put 2-3 splits in every few hours. For the overnight, I pack that sucker as full as I can stuff it, get it burning real good, then slowly back the air to fully closed. This will burn and stay hot all night long.
This is how I do it. I'm lucky enough to work from home so it's easy for me to throw a couple splits on every few hours. I also try to use up some of the odd chucks I always end up with during the day. I also burn in cycles.
I actually hold on to my odd chunks and use them to pack the small spaces and the sides for overnight. My stove has a very small firebox, and it makes it hard to fit all regular size splits in and get it good and full.
That's a good idea. I have a fairly small firebox as well. I'll have to try that
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