how hard is it to start sharping your chain saw chains?

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I use a file with the chain on the saw. I usually do 5 strokes per cutter. If you mark the first one with a sharpie it's easy to figure out where you have sharpened. Otherwise it gets hard to tell sometimes.

A grinder will also work, but they tend to grind off quite a bit of metal, and chains don't last as long.
 
I have found that if you have a work bench with a vise, you can clamp the bar in it and use the recommended file size with a plastic handle that has the angles marked, this will yeild good results. Make sure that you use the same number of strokes on each cutter. Once you have done one side of the chain, unclamp the bar and turn it around so that you can do the other side. I tried to sharpen my chains before with out the vise and my results were not very good. Having a vise is the key because you need to hold the bar tight. Make sure you use equal pressure while filing. The files will wear out eventually and will need to be replaced. With a little practice and patience, you will be happy with the results and you will also save some money too.
 
If you mark the first one with a sharpie it's easy to figure out where you have sharpened.

w00t! I'm not the only one approaching middle age whose eyes are going :D (Plus I should put some more lights in my garage).

I'm not as good as the best hand sharpeners I know, but I do a credible and getting better job for a homeowner firewood cutter. Guessing it takes me 10 minutes or so.

I usually do three passes till it feels smooth, occasionally have a tooth that feels real rough that'll take 4-5.

I hit the rakers every other time I sharpen, couple times each.

Put saw in shop vice, pull up a stool, mark my starting tooth with sharpie, do all the teeth in the same direction (just follow the angle of the tooth while keeping round file level), hit the rakers if needed. The flip the saw around and do the teeth going the other way and their rakers.

Good time after I'm done to pull off the bar, clean up the saw and under the cover, run a wire tie down the channel in the bar to clean out the gunk build up, make sure the oil holes are clean, flip the bar around so wear stays even, put it all back together.
 
I'd NEVER consider heading out to cut wood without a file------skip all the fancy stuff----just file the darn chain. Maybe a raker file in the garage. Grinders are nice for chains that are really damaged.

I seldom go more than a few tanks of gas without a touchup using a file. If you've got old fart eyes like me a jewelers loupe is nice to tell when every last bit of damage is removed. It's quite amazing what just a wee bit of damage can do to slow down cutting speed.

Just start filing and never look back.
 
I file and try not to have to hit it more than 2 strokes to get it back razor sharp. An older fellow taught me that and I've never used a guide for round filing.
 
"How hard is it to start sharpening your saw chains"?

How hard was it to learn to tie your shoes?
It's not much difference.
Can you sharpen a pocket knife? If you understand the basic principles of sharpening you've got it made. If not it may take a little longer, but not too bad.

Andy
 
like to start doing it if its not a pain.. what do u recomend i get and better on the saw or off..?

Lots of ways to sharpen a chain. Key thing is to find a way that works for YOU. I also use a grinder and sharpen several chains at a time; a decent grinder costs $300+ (unless you find one used). I like the consistent angles and cutter lengths I get.

A lot of guys are passionate about filing. If you are just starting out, I would suggest getting a filing guide like the Granberg:

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

for about $30 so that you get the angles right and are successful, rather than frustrated, with your first chains. Over time, you may start to free-hand file, and use the Granberg now-and-then to true things up. Down the road you may get confident enough with your free-hand filing that you put the Granberg on Craigs List and get half your money back.

Use good quality files, and don't be afraid to replace them when they don't cut so well anymore.

Don't forget to check and file the rakers (I use the basic Oregon depth gauge).

Just because you file does not mean that you can only have one chain per saw - good to have extras to swap out in case you don't want to stop and file in the field. Get a scrap or extra bar of the same gauge and mount it in a bench vice where you can use it with the Granberg without having to mount each chain on your saw.

Philbert
 
Philbert;3270344 Get a scrap or extra bar of the same gauge and mount it in a bench vice where you can use it with the Granberg without having to mount each chain on your saw. Philbert[/QUOTE said:
OK thats a cool idea, I have three extra chains for my 460 and they need attention right now, will have to stop into my dealer soon to scrounge an old bar :cheers:
 
Lots of ways to sharpen a chain. Key thing is to find a way that works for YOU. I also use a grinder and sharpen several chains at a time; a decent grinder costs $300+ (unless you find one used). I like the consistent angles and cutter lengths I get.


Philbert

Not quite $300 and what I have used for years. Works perfectly for me and it's what my local arborist supply store used to sharpen chains. Not that the original poster needs this thing, just wanted to say there are under $300 options.

Bailey's - Oregon Bench Mounted Mini Grinder
 
lol, nobody would want a bar or chain when I finally give them up. I have a bench grinder and still prefer hand filing. Eventually, every chain will hit the grinder but I have gotten better at hand filing over time.
 
Well, it's kind of like sex when you're older - it's not the starting that's the hard part, but the finishing!!!! :msp_scared::msp_scared::D:D
Who are you to talk about the finish. I just read a pot about a new Daddy on here about a new daddy:msp_rolleyes:
 
i've read all the replys so far, and i must comment. you don't need a vise, you don't need a granberg, or anything like that. most likely you chain has witness marks on it. get you a good file with a handle on it. follow the same angle as your witness marks on your chain. don't worry about the number of strokes. sharpen until it is smooth. do one side, and then turn your saw around and do the other side. it is not that complicated. chains are pretty cheap. if it takes several chains to get your saw charpening down, its not a big deal. remember, when you are out in the woods, you want have a vice. learn to sharpen a saw with just your hands and a file. a little practice is all it takes.
 
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