how hard is it to start sharping your chain saw chains?

[Philbert]

Most of us dreaded homeowners ( real "pros" must be home-less ) harvesting firewood, and getting some pocket change pulp or sawlogs for drink, cut far away from the truck, road, or shop. Repeat: 2-3 spare chains in grit, hitting embedded rounds or wire in trees ( all too common here in New England forests ) can get dull real fast.

LB, Are you calling me a 'PRO' ?!?!

Actually, most of my cutting is storm damage clean up, as a volunteer. Think metal, glass, sand, flying cows, etc., embedded in the wood. On a good day. Otherwise, it is hard to to tell where the tree stops and the roofing material (think 'abrasive grit') starts.

That's where I learned to run a grinder - not a matter of touching up edges, but serious blunting. Could spend hours/day with files. But I also learned that I could 'kiss' a cutter edge to sharpen it without wasting away a lot of metal. I learned to take at least 3 chains per saw with me, so that I could swap them out and keep cutting, then sharpen them in a batch. If I go through more than 3/saw, then it is usually time for a break anyway.

I do take a few files, a basic Oregon-style file guide, and a stump vise with me as well, for touch ups in clean wood. I, personally, can not get the cutters as consistent as I can with a grinder. I also like the idea of rotating a few chains out as a sprocket wears, rather than putting a new chain on a worn sprocket.

But as I stated earlier, it is figuring out what works for you. Even if it is one of those Dremel things, or getting a friend to do yours in exchange for favors or a few cold ones.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

From one of my favorite humans, R.A.H.

Grinder and guides are all OK...But

Hand filling a chain is one of the first things a person should learn. Right after learning to run a saw safely that is. My old man taught me when I was 14 and I've been doing it for around 36 years now.

"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects."

 

[Whitespider]

WOW! This is funny… the “grinders” arguing with the “filers” over which method is better.
Does it matter? I mean, what ever works... right?
So I guess I should toss out my take on which is better… huh? Yeah, I know y’all couldn’t care any less, but I’m gonna’ give it to ya’ anyway.

Well, both methods have positives… and both methods have negatives.

Assuming you spent enough cash on a well made, precision grinder it’s gonna’ give you more consistent angles then even the best filer can produce… that’s just a simple fact ‘cause of the human error factor. But angles don’t do the cutting; it’s the sharp edges that do the cutting. Absolutely consistent tooth-to-tooth angles will make for a smoother cutting chain and one more likely to cut in a perfect straight line. Will you notice the difference? If you’re good at using a file… probably not.

The file will give you a sharper and longer lasting cutting edge… and that’s just a simple fact also. Just like difference between sharpening an axe with a grinder or a file; the file produces a sharper, more durable edge. There’s a very good reason for this… No grinder, no matter how careful the operator is, can keep the ultra-micro-thin cutting edge from burning. A very, very tiny bit of the absolute cutting edge is burned away, and a tiny bit more is left with the tempering removed. The result from grinding is an edge just a tiny bit less sharp and less tough… an edge that won’t hold sharp as long under the same conditions. And that, my friends, is a difference you will notice.

Now, you “grinders” can argue with me all you want… but just ask anybody that makes, or works professionally with “edge” tools… It’s a fact that can’t be argued.

 

[benp]

It's not hard and is just like learning a new skill as everyone has mentioned.

I have had good success with the Swedish Roller filing by hand. In my limited experience the file lets you know when you are in the sweet spot, I can feel the file cut as opposed to a chatter.

Also as already mentioned, if something goes haywire in the field you can do the touch ups right there.

Imo, it's a good and rewarding skill to have that you become more proficient at the more you do it.

 

[buildmyown]

Good post. Last Saturday I helped clear trails for a snowmobile club I belong to and I think I spent the same amount of time filing chains as I did cutting. Everyone was amazed at the size of chips my saw was throwing granted I take the rakers down a lot more then most. The only way I sharpen chains now is free hand with a file. Had 3 chains that I rocked hard cleaning up after Irene brought them to the dealer they have a fancy all automated grinder thinking they could get them back into shape faster and better then me with a file, was i wrong. The first chain I put on made 3 cuts in clean wood and it was throwing dust took 3 passes on each cutter with a file and it was good to go and still is cutting great after 3 tanks. A few guys I was with use a chain till its dull toss it and put a new one on. A little trick i use to keep a saw still on the tail gate is use a ratchet strap to hold it down.

 

[Dalmatian90]

A little trick i use to keep a saw still on the tail gate is use a ratchet strap to hold it down.

Oh me likely, you're getting rep for sharing that tip!

 

[Sagetown]

Some little extras I use when hand sharpening.
I clamp the saw handle to an old desk top, so the bar is out away from the edge.
An adjustable stool with rollers, so I can adjust to the desired height, and move around the bar freely.
Sure makes it easy on this ole feller.
A lighted magnifying visor from Harbor Freight, so I can get a big view of each tooth and raker.
Two or three light strokes with a round file per tooth is generally all that's required.

 

[logbutcher]

Pferd

There are many inventions in our lives that make life fine: silicone implants, Kevlar, chips/PCs:computer:, Glock, Laphroaig, etc, etc....

For in-field ( or in shop ) hand sharpening look it up now --
PFERD.

 

[Steve2910]

Well, it's kind of like sex when you're older - it's not the starting that's the hard part, but the finishing!!!! :msp_scared::msp_scared:

Isn't that the truth!!

 

[Somesawguy]

There are many inventions in our lives that make life fine: silicone implants, Kevlar, chips/PCs:computer:, Glock, Laphroaig, etc, etc....

For in-field ( or in shop ) hand sharpening look it up now --
PFERD.

It looks like an interesting rig. I do like that it adjusts the rakers for you, and the price tag isn't bad. I may have to pick one up sometime.

 

[StubornDutchman]

I still consider myself a newbe so I use both. I have a lot of storm damaged tops to work thru so I find myself doing field touch ups with almost every tank refill. The Stihl kit works great for me as I don't have to worry about filing to deep into the gullet. Its gotten easier for me since watching how the feller straddled the log and leaned over the bar. Doing it this way along with a stump vise has improved my speed considerably. I do rotate the file in the holder often.

Every so often I use my cheapo Harbor Freight sharpener. I set it up to just lightly kiss the chain. It usually takes three passes to get all the cutters the same length.

Both systems work well for me and the more I use them, the more confidence this old fart gets. At least this is what works for me.

 

[nixon]

like to start doing it if its not a pain.. what do u recomend i get and better on the saw or off..?

Go ahead and take the plunge. Once you do a chain or two,you'll wonder why you hesitated in the first place . I use the pferd system mentioned earlier,works great. I generally sharpen on the saw,but if I've got chains that I changed in the field,I mount them on an old bar in a vice.