How screwed am I? Frozen Line?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jaberwky

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
235
Reaction score
38
Location
MN
I think one of the lines on my OWB is frozen, but not sure. Here's the scoop:

My system is a CB classic with 2 pumps - attic furnace for upstairs only (in unheated attic) and basement standard furnace for main floor and basement. Propane backup set for 55. Area temps have been subzero for quite some time, with nasty wind chills. 2 days ago I came home to 61 degrees and found a tripped breaker, but no evidence of any other power failure. I chalked it up to a bad breaker and planned to replace it this weekend.

Very late last night I figured out the pump for the attic was not running and to make matters worse, the propane burner wasn't working either. I unplugged the pump but left the valves open, and (unwisely) chose to stay cold overnight and get the pump running in the morning. The main floor heat was fine.

Due to a series of unfortunate incidents, I was not able to get the pump running again until late this afternoon. While the pump works, it seems clear that the line is at least partially frozen. I'm at my wits end - not sure how to correct this or if I even can. The only advantage is that with the propane working up there, at least there is heat blowing past the boiler coil at the furnace.
 
well, if the line is only "partially frozen" it wouldnt take long for it to thaw if it was running.

How deep are your lines?

Im in Northern Nebraska and have frozen water lines @ 48" right now:cry:
 
With being in the northern states I would think to have the OWB pump running at all times and have a zone valve at the heat exchange unit,or water circulating all the time and have the blower switched. I am thinking that you have the heat pump switched to turn on to regulate the heat, with the furnace blower.

Without knowing how your system is set up , it is hard to diagnose what is happening.

HTH

Glenn
 
Bummer

Sounds like your system was an excellent candidate for glycol. I am betting the lines are frozen in the exposed attic space. Get a salamander up there and throw massive heat to it..
 
Yeah

With being in the northern states I would think to have the OWB pump running at all times and have a zone valve at the heat exchange unit,or water circulating all the time and have the blower switched. I am thinking that you have the heat pump switched to turn on to regulate the heat, with the furnace blower.

Without knowing how your system is set up , it is hard to diagnose what is happening.

HTH

Glenn

2 zones, each with a circ pump at the boiler running a line to a manifold at the furnace/blower. Each zone has its own thermostat. Pumps run continuously and the furnace/blower in each location only comes on as called for by the stat. No heat pump involved.
 
That's What I'm Thinking

Sounds like your system was an excellent candidate for glycol. I am betting the lines are frozen in the exposed attic space. Get a salamander up there and throw massive heat to it..

We have now spent hours running the pump in short bits so as not to burn it out. The lines in the attic are still clearly frozen, so we were thinking heat tape? I could go rent a salamander but should I worry about any fire danger with all the exposed truss members up there?

Good idea, and you better bet there will be glycol in my system this off-season. I shudder to think that if I can't get these lines thawed I'm going to have to use propane in the upper zone and keep wood for the lower - the propane will kill me in cost for 2 more months, that's for sure.
 
I'd be leary of putting a salamander in the attic,some heat tape and some 500 watt flood lights?
 
I would continue to get all the heat I could upstairs in the attic and and it will take time be patient. I know that is easy for me to say...... I would be a nervous wreck but time is all that will help.
 
Small cheap electrial heaters...can get them for 20 bucks at Wally world. Be safer than the Salamander but obviously not as much heat. Put them right next to the pipes.
 
I still am sticking with big heat

Just do not aim it at any framing lumber.. Stick your head up there every 15 minutes or so and check.. It is not going to be a 15 minute fix no matter what option you choose,...Good luck
 
2 zones, each with a circ pump at the boiler running a line to a manifold at the furnace/blower. Each zone has its own thermostat. Pumps run continuously and the furnace/blower in each location only comes on as called for by the stat. No heat pump involved.

Sorry, I said heat pump, but meant circ pump.

Glenn
 
Dunno

Are you still froze up?

I feel like I've reached the end of my abilities and patience. We call the pros in tomorrow and hope for the best.

It's either a chunk of ice in the line someplace between the boiler and attic (underground, outside insulated lines running up side of the house) or air someplace. There is no bleed valve or way to flush air in that loop - whever installed it should be flogged.

At this point I'm wondering if the cost of getting it fixed will be about the same as propane for that zone for the rest of the season....
 
Get a coupling, cut the son of a gun at a high point. Then you can see what you have,..
Worse part is the incoming weather is going to be colder than a well diggers arse.
 
When I was a kid we had a rental house on our property. It was an ond barn that had been converted to living quarters long before there were codes. They didnt bury waterline very deep and if you didnt let water drip it would freeze. Mom got new tenant that didnt like to waste and shut off water. Not good,it froze. Anyway plumbing company came out with big pipeline welder and connected leads to both ends of pipe and trurned it on. Electric current heated pipes up and thawed them out. No damage to anything. If your pipes are copper or steel and have a welder try it.:clap:
 
Back
Top