How to prime carb after rebuild???
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Brad nice vids, you could hear just the right point on each tune with out going to far. Presta good to help out, just sneak up on your final setting from where it's at while cutting and you'll be fine. Glad to help even if just a little.
Thanks for the vids! I see you're from Franklin....I grew up in Springboro. Small world.
Ok. After some research I think I understand what you're saying. I need it to run richer on the H side so at high rpms the cylinder is getting more oil for lubricating. Correct?
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More gas as well, it also keeps the temperature down. Too rich though will not produce as much heat in the combustion process, lowering the pressure of gas expansion when it ignites, producing less power. Too lean and the mixture receives more oxygen igniting hotter, too hot, that's what will scorch the p/c. So there is a fine setting your trying to achieve in the tune to produce as much heat = power without going too lean = too hot.
Outside temperature affects the mixture too, cooler air is denser = more oxygen so your saw runs leaner. You should get to know how it should sound, and listen to it every time you use it and during its use just in case something changes. I hope I explained this ok with out confusing you.
Makes perfect sense. Sounds like my ear needs tuning more than anything lol. So I know the right tune
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Got a few questions. How do I know if mine has a auto oiler? Manual oiler seems to work fine. How does the oil get from behind that plate and onto the chain/bar?
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I have a Craftsman clone of your saw. Actually they have both manual and auto oiler. The auto oiler works via a diaphragm from the pressure pulses in the crankcase. To check them, simply run it with out the bar and chain, oil should come out a hole above the mounting studs. While you are there you might as well oil the clutch needle bearing. Just squirt some right between the sprocket and case, it will flow down into the bearing. I like to do mine every couple times of use.
Also forgot to mention to check the oil access hole in the bar, that it's not clogged with debris. Being a Craftsman banana shaped bar, mine only had a hole on one side, so I drilled another on the other side. Now I can use the other side that is in way better shape. Looks odd but it works.
know anything about blowers? check out this i posted today.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-sh-85-runs-very-loud-needs-adjusting.257524/
Sounds pretty loud. Did someone modify the muffler? Check to make sure all mounting bolts are tight on it. Also if you can't get it to idle down you might have an air leak. Check carb mount screws, and I think that's a clamshell design motor, check the four bolts that hold the bottom of the shell to the cylinder. Also to adjust the carb you need to set it to a certain rpm with a tach.
It wasn't that loud the first year I had. Seemed to get loud at some point last year.
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No that won't really work, because it detects the physical rotation by means of a laser pointing right at what is rotating. Difficult to do on a small engine. You need one that detects the actual pulses going through the plug wire. I use one you can get on Amazon: 328 EZ Tach Plus by Electronic Specialties. It works well for me and is under $50. There are others out there that are a little better but you pay more for that.
Hate to spend $50. Think this would work?
http://www.amazon.com/Penny-Tachome...DP6YU/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t?tag=donations09-20
http://www.amazon.com/Penny-Tachome...DP6YU/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t?tag=donations09-20
