How to pull over trees?

[NebClimber]

I'm faced with a number of removals that could be done quickly if I could just pull the tree over and let it flop on the ground. Problem is, many have leaders, stems, etc, that lean hard (up to 45%) toward structures. For example, one Elm forks into two big leaders about 20' from the ground. One side goes north, the other south. I will cut the north leader off, but the south leader will have to be rigged unless I could just pull the south leader over to the north, trunk and all.

I'm afraid to pull a tree over that is this back heavy toward a structure, even though the trunk itself is straight.

Any thoughts?

Steven

 

[Stumper]

NEB, A pic would help. If you have room to flop the south leader and the trunk tthen taking off the North leader is a mistake unless it is too tall to fit the drop zone. (Typically co -dominant leaders are very nearly equal in height) DON"T CUT THE COUNTERWEIGHT off the trunk and then fight a heavy leaner-fell a balanced tree! Sometimes the easiest and safest way to remove a tree is entire.:angel:

 

[NeTree]

Ditto to Stumper.

Pulling over can save boatloads of time. Get the pull rope as high as possible/practical to reduce the overall load. Make your notch, then alternately reduce your hinge while pulling the tree towards center (balance point).

If the tree has no or an insignifigant side-lean, try to pull directly in line with where you want it to fall (your gun).

You'd be amazed what you can pull over with a strong rope and a strong winch.

Let me know if you need more details as far as equipment goes.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by netree
You'd be amazed what you can pull over with a strong rope and a strong winch.

Upgrade that to a tractor and a cable, and you might be home before lunch!

 

[NeTree]

But not everybody can fit a tractor in the sidebox, Butch.

 

[OutOnaLimb]

Just get a line as high as you can on the central leader. Tie off using a running bowline just above where your gonna make your face cut. If you have a good anchor point on the pulling side use that to attach a sling and a prusic minding pulley with a piece of 9mm kernmantle and a french prusic. Tie in another pulley about half way up the rope towards the tree, This will give you double mechanical advantage and the french prusic will pull, but not give while your groundie is pulling the tree over. Its pretty text book actually. I dont like usin tractors chains and cables, thats the **** hacks do.

Kenn

 

[NebClimber]

On one particular job I am removing 14 large, dead/declining Elm. We will be using a payloader and cable.

I fear that if I pull these trees over and leave a large limb on the fall side that the tree will turn or rotate unpredictably when it hits the ground.

From the replies here it sounds like the tree should be felled intact whenever possible.

Thanks

 

[NeTree]

Well, what would be the point in climbing out only part of it?

 

[murphy4trees]

Watch out for that trunk splitting, especially if it has any sign of included bark running down the trunk... Tie off the back lead or p[ossibly run the pull line through both leads and then tie off below on the trunk...

MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE THERE IS NO BYPASS ON THE FACE CUTS.... A clean notch is an absolute must... any bypass will cause the hinge to sieze and brake.... causing disaster...

I'd be carefull using a friction hitch on the pull line.... it might start to slide before you get enough force to move the tree... You'd be better off using a doubled bowline as a mid line knot and use the prussic on the biner of the 3:1 Z rig....

Maybe then put a rope puller on the last leg of the 3:1, giving 3000-4500 Lbs of pull..

And just to make sure you got her, set a second back up pull line....

You might consider a center plunge through the hinge to reduce fiber in the hinge, but don't even try it if you aren't 100% confident in your falling abilities.... that means you know how to make a clean notch and back cut.

And finally you gotta know how much back cut to make before you start cranking hard....

 

[NeTree]

That's easy... when the saw is just starting to pinch.

LOL


(I disagree with a center-bore; make the hinge thinner instead.)

 

[OutOnaLimb]

Actually, I have a cool knot to use in a Z-rig instead of a bowline on a bite, I call it an Alabama booger not. it isnt nearly as hard to untie as a bowline on a bite or a butterfly.However the prussic is the way to go on back leaners. In my humble opinion.

Kenn

 

[xtremetrees]

I find Murphy that a little 2 inch strip of holding wood on your back cut is substaintial amount of holding wood for even the largest trees.

If you have a 4X4 and want to lay the tree down and you got enuff pull you can just back cut it with no notch. Be warned alot of splitting will occur. This is a good technique for saving say concret driveways and the trees arent to tall. Just stand to the side of the splitting wood.Cut-pull, stand back cut pull. you dont want bounce in your pull a strong bull rope reduce this.Cut until it starts peeling cut a bit more then just stand back.

I'd say if your pulling a tree and cutting into the back with no notch that youll have to cut 3/4 way thru for it start cracking.

 

[rumination]

Originally posted by xtremetrees
I find Murphy that a little 2 inch strip of holding wood on your back cut is substaintial amount of holding wood for even the largest trees.

If you have a 4X4 and want to lay the tree down and you got enuff pull you can just back cut it with no notch. Be warned alot of splitting will occur. This is a good technique for saving say concret driveways and the trees arent to tall. Just stand to the side of the splitting wood.Cut-pull, stand back cut pull. you dont want bounce in your pull a strong bull rope reduce this.Cut until it starts peeling cut a bit more then just stand back.

I'd say if your pulling a tree and cutting into the back with no notch that youll have to cut 3/4 way thru for it start cracking.

You're kidding, right?

 

[xtremetrees]

NO sir Mr Leon I am not

Have you ever tried this very idiotic technique?

 

[rumination]

Originally posted by xtremetrees
NO sir Mr Leon I am not

Have you ever tried this very idiotic technique?

No, I must admit that I have not. Seems like you might be asking for a barber chair. Not necessarily the safest way to go about it, I'd think.

 

[xtremetrees]

I've seen it done some, I dont do it alot. Climbing in the air witha a chainsaw is unsafe maybe you should stay on the ground leon.

 

[rumination]

Originally posted by xtremetrees
Climbing in the air witha a chainsaw is unsafe maybe you should stay on the ground leon.

Thanks for the constructive criticism, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[Nathan Wreyford]

Use a tapered hinge

 

[xtremetrees]

ill keep yours in mind to bro

 

[xtremetrees]

Murphy is most advanced with the plung cut. I guess it works for him. I may one day get to see its application maybe soon even. Like I like to say I'm good enuff to do it your way. I like the taperd notch and find I use it more frequently. The upside down notch i use it exclsively in the air. Alot less spar m9ovement. I really want to learn the plung cut. Murphy can I work this storm with yall. I'll probably never pick up wedges thou.