How to split wood

[husky455rancher]

i just use the splitter. maybe if you bust ass you can go faster then i can. but the difference is i dont get tired and or sore. wehn i split i park the trailer right next to ther splitter so it comes off the splitter and into the trailer. when the trailers full i shut the splitter down and go stack it. i like this method as it keeps me from handling it over and over again. it gives the splitter a few minutes to cool too when im stacking which im sure it dosent need but who dosent like a break every now and then?

 

[woodbooga]

Weird question, but here goes.

While I write right-handed, there are several things that I do naturally lefty. When I was a kid, I batted lefty naturally and taught myself to switch hit. Same thing with golf. I'm able to maul split effectively and accurately either way, but I naturally prefer to swing with my left hand on top. Is this lefty or righty?

 

[Laird]

opcorn: Read the whole post from beginning to end and enjoyed reading it from beginning to end.

 

[joe4str]

Enjoyed this post

Yes, splitting firewood is not the most complicated endeavor as some have said here but I appreciated hearing about someone else's process and techniques. And, I hoist a brew to those who do it by hand...

 

[turnkey4099]

i just use the splitter. maybe if you bust ass you can go faster then i can. but the difference is i dont get tired and or sore. wehn i split i park the trailer right next to ther splitter so it comes off the splitter and into the trailer. when the trailers full i shut the splitter down and go stack it. i like this method as it keeps me from handling it over and over again. it gives the splitter a few minutes to cool too when im stacking which im sure it dosent need but who dosent like a break every now and then?

Same here. I prefer splitting by hand but use my splitter (homebuilt) for the tough stuff or when the 'to be split' pile gets out of hand.

Which is faster? On easy splitting stuff the splitter will be much faster as it only has to go about 1/4 or less depth before the chunk gives up. A round that needs to be chunked in 4 pieces for example will take 3 splits and none of them except the first requires being reset up or bungie corded, etc. I bend over once to pick up the round and it is all split before I have to bend over again.

Then there is the point that the splitter will still be splitting while the mauler will be taking a break.

I still prefer manual though for the excercise, the pace of work, no noise, etc. Being retired I have the time to play like that.

Harry K

 

[Orange Hill]

I have lived a pamper life in that I have always had the use of a powered splitter since the 80's. I do use a hatchet and single bit ax to make kindling. A desire has struck me lately to do some manual splitting and so I went out to buy a Fiskars Super Splitting ax and nobody has one locally so I am going to order one online. In the mean time I bought one of those Ames assembled in America with an Indian wedge head and a Chinese red wavy plastic safety handle splitting axes. I could not believe how all of the local hardware stores and the big box stores are out of stock of mauls, axes and wedges; selves are bare except for grenade wedges, more on that later.

The Ames actually works ok on making smaller pieces of large pieces of dry split wood, but the few odd dry wind twisted stringy rounds of eucalyptus I have would have none of it and split the Ames back at me. It did work on a 10" semi dry live oak round I swung it at, it split after the second hit and all of the othe splits were single hits. I am using a 315/35R18 tire and it really helps keep the wood together and the toes on the ends of my feet.

I bought one of those nifty grenade wedges and even hitting it with a 10#er it would fly back at me even if I got it started in the wood first before putting the steel to it; what a piece of :censored:. The tip is even starting to bend a bit from over zealous wacks. I will stick to my more traditional wedge, though the Estwing E5 wedge looks interesting and I really like their hammers so I will give it a go next.

I am going to cut a euc this weekend to try the splitting ax out on green wood because I am a bit bored I guess and the rain has stopped. Thanks for the write up.

 

[treeslayer]

I have a question.My old gramps used to say that you should split up the tree,from the bottom up.Has anyone ever heard this.
DON

I was taught that over 30 years ago, the wood will split easier if the rounds are stood up on the end that was closer to the base of the tree. the bottom so to speak. Seems to work better, but sometimes crotches or the grain splitting off requires me to flip it, or pitch it away.

I split by hand with an ax, then a maul, then the hydraulic splitter, as the wood gets harder.

nobody can outsplit a machine when busting wood with a convoluted grain.

Here in VA some wood busts easy by hand, some wood fight the splitter. I have way too much wood available to argue with the difficult types, (elm, gum, etc... and most anything out of a swamp.)

 

[Labman]

There is an old fella on youtube who uses a bungie cord and some string around each round and he splits the stuff quick and efficient! Anybody seen the video? I think anything short of a firewood processor would be hard pressed to keep up with him.

Another trick I may try. I sometimes end up with things that don't have a flat end for one reason or another. You could group a bunch of them together to split them.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

There is an old fella on youtube who uses a bungie cord and some string around each round and he splits the stuff quick and efficient! Anybody seen the video? I think anything short of a firewood processor would be hard pressed to keep up with him.

Thats my video folks here is the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoAOYLMU1Wc
Thanks for the credits Slvrmple72 I posted that video to show how to make splitting easier, definately NOT to show off any superb splitting technique. But I agree with rtrsam that it is more into it than just swinging the axe. Grain structure is different in different spieces, but allways split radial from center of growth rings. I had a poll a while ago about where to hit on the log
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=80457
I'm a advocate of hitting the first hit 1.5" inside the bark. That will give you maximum leverage to split the log.
I have another video on youtube aswell
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVSwICvpIVE
It's pretty much the same but I show how to use the bungee on smaller rounds, I bundle them together and then split them all together. You can use a tire for that too, but not for carrying the wood to the stack......

BTW Slvrmple72, I (old fella on youtube) am only 55 years old, even if I look like 75.....

 

[TallElf]

Hi... My name is Alex... and I am a handsplitter. I have heated my home for two winters with some leftovers. I don't measure in cords, or weekends spent, I measure in gastanks. I do have to say that my ms290 is a sipper as opposed to my fathers 026. I have put about a 2.5 gallons through this season (about 3 tankfuls shy). That is also about 2.5 gallons through dad's small 170? I split for his house as well. I enjoy the time spent, and splitting is a differnt action than cutting. Allows for the body to get a full work out. I already have pretty big forearms, so pushing a hydraulic lever is not my way to go yet. Dad is looking into a splitter, but hey, the guy will be 73 this year? I can't blame him.

I do prefer a wooden handle, but someone gave me the idea to pick up a true temper. I believe it is 4 lb head, and has a slight concave wedge to it with the small wings. It Is AWESOME. I have done my fair share and pop's and yes at the end of the first day I am tired. As time goes on,by the end of true season, I can go for about 6 hours of splitting taking time to pee and drink a few cups of coffee. hence the first step in any break.

 

[rtrsam]

Thanks for all the comments, and I apologize for putting up such a long winded message. A few people mention different types of wood like hickory and elm; I've never had the pleasure of beating on that stuff with my maul. I hope to someday, as I own about 80 acres of mixed hardwoods in Illinois where I plan to eventually retire. Maybe then I'll go ahead and buy a splitter! Actually, I think my wife endorses the idea as well (not so sure about the price tag, though). I've got her convinced of the economy of wood heat vs multi-thousand dollar propane bill.

I've actually heard old timers tell me both ways about splitting wood right side up or upside down. Generally by the time I figure out which way is up on a log I've got it busted into four or eight pieces. never used a bungee cord or tire to hold a log upright; I hesitate to think the size tire I'd have to have to hold some of this stuff.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Give this man a cerveza!

When you retire to your acreage, you can build one of these...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAAx3mMKY

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I have a question.My old gramps used to say that you should split up the tree,from the bottom up.Has anyone ever heard this.
DON

It do make sense in a couple of meanings...even if I don't think it will make a BIG difference....
first ..."upside down" you hit the bigger diameter of the log, even if it's only 1/8" bigger...bigger diameter better leverage and easier to split
second...from the bottom of the tree you start with the easiest, biggest and most productive logs...splitting most cords per hour...getting most of the wood into seasoning as soon as possible...