How would you approach this (bucking big oak on hill) ?

[Philbo]

What I meant was, wrap in a spiral so that as you pull the truck ahead, as the strap unwinds it rolls the log up the hill. Doubt that that log will move just pulling it as dead weight.

Ahah! That's a good trick.

We don't really need to move it up to the yard. I feel pretty safe sawing on the thing from the uphill side...I just worry about where it will go if too much at one time rolls unexpectedly downhill. Truck parked with a chain attached is a great idea to help prevent this.

And yes, this will be used for firewood. Would be neat to mill, but neither one of us have the equipment to do so or anywhere good to dry slabs.

Thanks all for the advice so far. Very helpful and gets me thinking outside the box.

 

[Whitespider]

I would try putting it on better (safer) ground first.
If a dead-head is available I'd use it to gain a leverage advantage (see diagram below). Move (roll) it a little at a time, blocking against the slope as you go, trimming/cutting off protruding branches as needed. Maybe use two lines, a few feet apart, to keep it from turning/twisting out of the rigging (probably not needed, but I'm not on site). Do the blocking from the ends and any needed trimming/cutting from the uphill side, do not walk or stand downhill from the log once pulling has started... no exceptions.

Any 4x4 worth its salt should be able to move that log up the hill using the rigging shown below.

 

[Dalmatian90]

If a dead-head is available I'd use it to gain a leverage advantage (see diagram below).

When the first poster mentioned "rolling" that's exactly what I envisioned.

Simply pulling on it...I know my truck wouldn't do it (based on what I have pulled up hills in the past). Make sure you fill up the bed with firewood or other weight before you try. Rolling...I might have a shot.

I'm also seeing a large stub that you'll need to first roll the log a bit then cut off if you want to roll it all the way up.

Next question is what's your plan if the log gets going sideways while rolling? Do you have another chain and/or strap to setup to get things straightened out to keep rolling it up. Most of us are not natural born estimators of where the center of weight and everything else is if we don't rig stuff up like this a lot...adjustments will need to be made.

The noodle & buck isn't a bad idea, but then you'd only need a 20" bar ... so make sure you get the 28" bar and chain from your friend, cut up the tree, and leave before he has a chance to go, "Hey, hold on a minute..."

If you can't roll it up, and you don't want to noodle it, but you got a long enough chain...just chain up each piece before you cut, then pull the block up to the top of the hill. Reset and chain the next piece before cutting.

 

[Dalmatian90]

This is my variation on Whitespider's drawing -- rather then a single chain, I'd prefer to "cradle" the load between two (or in this case, a single chain but being used to pull up on two ends):

This would keep the nylon tow straps on the "clean" side of the operation so they're not being dragged in the dirt under load. Chains are for the dirty work laying along the ground and rolling along the log.

View attachment 271683

 

[stumpy75]

Is there any way to guestimate 'round abouts how much this log weighs? White oak, dead and down for about 3 years, 12ft long by about 40" wide.

From the tables I've seen, about 450lbs per foot, so about 5500lbs.

 

[Foxfire]

Don't know if this has been suggested yet or not, what about spinning the tree 90% so that the length of the tree is parallel to the slope. The rounds should drop on to their flat face and be less likely to roll.

 

[flashhole]

Maybe the OP could stand on the log and get a picture of the down side of the hill so we can get an appreciation of where the log would go in the event things went badly trying to roll it up the hill.

 

[Patrick62]

5500, wow

Wrap the log, and I agree it will work.
Maybe roll it onto some other logs to start blocking it?
opcorn:

 

[WidowMaker]

From your tow rig, go over the top of the log with your chain/cable, make 3 or 4 wraps around the log. On the last wrap hook your chain/cable back to itself. This way the log will roll as opposed to being drug. Should work like a champ...

 

[Jakers]

you guys are making this way more complicated than it needs to be. just rent a 100 Ton crane and pick it up. make sure to level the whole area out first with a dozer (mite have to rent that too) so ya can get the lowboy backed in there along with the 4-5 crane sections and counter weight. then when while you have the crane there you can hold up one end of the log to make bucking easier.

its like rocket surgery or somethin.... sheesh

 

[dingeryote]

I have a dollar that says the truck tires spin and the log stays where it is. Any takers?

I wish I was closer so I could take your $$.:hmm3grin2orange:

The key word here is "Roll", not skid, or drag.

Couple of good chains, 4-5 wraps, and use leverage to get things done.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Philbo]

Maybe the OP could stand on the log and get a picture of the down side of the hill so we can get an appreciation of where the log would go in the event things went badly trying to roll it up the hill.

Pic #1 is pretty much it. Below is a small garden tool shed, several fenced off garden plots, some wood stacked up, and on either side of all that, steeper wooded land.


I think, based on all the responses and me re-thinking everything I'm going to start on the log as I originally intended (right side, moving left) but also have a strap or chain, if he has a long enough one, wrapped around the left side like so many folks have suggested. That way I can at least get a certain % of the log cut off first hopefully before I try and roll it and if it does roll downhill unexpectedly on me, then I'll have some backup. I won't get too far trying to roll this log without taking off that big stem on the back left side (that's holding it on the hill) but that should be easy enough if I wrap it right.

From what I remember, and I could have overlooked it, but I don't think there is any type of stump or leverage point that can be used between the log and truck.

This has been a bit tedious and I think folks are maybe getting a little too hung up on just moving it to flatter ground, no matter the cost, but thanks again for all the advice. If that part was a little more straightforward then it'd be different, but the ground is almost certainly going to be at least a bit wet and soft, I don't have a powerhouse truck, and there is no real leverage point to work with in that area, so I'm not 100% confident that moving it intact off the bat is the best 1st approach. I will certainly re-think and maybe apply all that, though when the time comes on Monday. :dunno:

 

[tld400]

Just start noodleing the heck out of it. Every chunk you take off of it will make it lighter,and then once its lighten up and you feel comfortable yank it up the hill on flat ground.

 

[deepsouth]

If you do go with the hauling it up option, it's not all about power of the tow rig.

It's about traction. So if you can be on a firm hard surface, lots of grip (ie not wet grass), use 4wd low, any other aids (diff locks), and also consider letting tyres down heaps.

As an example, I was out getting a 7x4 trailer load when it started raining on a track. Had an uphill to get up with probably 1000kg behind. Rain was running down the wheel ruts. Even with aggressive mud tyres, I couldn't claw up until I went down to 15psi from about 34psi.

Then a back up and try again in the rain and I got up and out. Although I brought home mud covered wood after that :msp_biggrin:

And half the places I cut seem to be on the side of a hill.

 

[ropensaddle]

I would hook this to it and drag the dern thing only because I hate splitting on a hill


View attachment 271738

 

[sgt7546]

I would hook this to it and drag the dern thing only because I hate splitting on a hill


View attachment 271738

How do they say it in English: "Right tool for the Job."

 

[zogger]

You can cut where it is and just flop the rounds over and bust them up to carrying size right where they flop. To keep the rounds from rolling downhill at all put some vertical heavy other log braces down hill. T bone them in place T T T T T cut between the verticals. Youll know right before the rounds separate, start flopping them then. You got two guys, figure that part out. Maybe snake a rope down in there, a loop, the other guy starts pulling right when the round starts to get cut free. Cutting them short, shouldnt be too heavy to flop over fast (or youll find out the first one, HAHAHA) No sense killing your truck for a few bucks of wood. The noodling idea is good too. No round, no way to roll.

Also, wedging down hard as you are cutting, that will develop a lean anyway, plus start on the lower side, take advantage of the gravity lean that way. (whichever side is lower)

then again (I am thinking, hard to see with pictures), starting on the higher side, the round might want to just lean against the remaining log, not going anyplace then, then much more stable and easier to flop over the other way once it is free.

If you want to drag it up, borrow a tractor for five minutes.

 

[imagineero]

Bring at least 3 or 4 wedges, and another saw. You will get your bar stuck, especially if this is your first time cutting in big wood. Put the wedges in early. Bring spare chains, or have plenty of time on your hands and know how to file. You'll probably kiss the dirt a few times. The idea of noodling the rounds as you go is a good one. You could use the friends smaller saw to make a single vertical noodling cut, then use your saw to cut the 2 half rounds off the main log. Dry oak is plenty hard. Bring a 6' wrecking/breaking bar if you have one. Comes in handy as a lever for cracking the rounds off the log, which will save you getting your chain into the dirt. Cut big wedges for the low side to stop the log rolling if you need to.

Shaun

 

[flashhole]

I wish I was closer so I could take your $$.:hmm3grin2orange:

The key word here is "Roll", not skid, or drag.

Couple of good chains, 4-5 wraps, and use leverage to get things done.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote

I still hold with my assertion. Vehicle pointed uphill, wet/damp grass, huge inertia to get that thing to even budge rolling or not. Wheels are gonna spin before that log moves if it moves at all in that situation. I'd have to frame your dollar and hang it on the wall. Better still, put it towards a 6-pack of beer and we could both be happy.

 

[woodguy105]

Put a bunch big wood wedges(chunk of fire wood) on the down hill side so the log doesn't roll. Cut into 1/4's (wedges hold log) get 2 peaveys and roll the round to better position. When you cut the rounds make sure you have the wedges in place just in case.