HS-75 Hedge trimmer sharpening

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I've tried a flap disc. It's too wide. It won't cover the whole edge. A cut-off wheel works the best but you have to be extremely careful. Since they are very thin and don't generate a lot of heat. They don't lose their shape either.
 
Stihl dealer i worked had a stationary upright grinding machine with a special stone from Stihl on it. WHen it spins on high revs you can see what you are grinding because of the many little holes in the stone. So its easy to get as much of the teeth as needed. It takes a while to get the right angels out of hand, so practice on old blades was a must.

After grinding lightly grind the teeth again to grind of the burn marks, usualy take of a lot of the teeth becuase customers wear them out so then they get hot.

With a very light amount of pressure we cleaned the gliding backs on the same grinder so they looked like new.

Then put everything together, with the right amount of torgue!, some kind of lubricant spray on it, test the machine and go!

Flapdisk is to soft, you will get a rounded tooth!
 
Well i just called all three dealers around here and they are still not open, So i will call them back monday to find out if they sharpen them. One of them is a john deere dealer and the other two are small engine shops, if they don't i guess the old grinder will get used. i will have to buy a disc though the one on it is not very good. I have another but it is really thick.
 
I don't know if this helps or not.

I have a 020 and an 015 set-up with the hedgetrimmer attachments.

The manuel for the 020 covers sharpening the blades. 45 degrees is the angle. A file is recommended.

Your blades look different though. One side looks like it serves as an anvil and the other side is doing the cutting. On my chainsaw hedgetrimmer attachments. Both blades are doing the cutting so both blades are filed at 45 degrees.

Larry
 
I don't know if this helps or not.

I have a 020 and an 015 set-up with the hedgetrimmer attachments.

The manuel for the 020 covers sharpening the blades. 45 degrees is the angle. A file is recommended.

Your blades look different though. One side looks like it serves as an anvil and the other side is doing the cutting. On my chainsaw hedgetrimmer attachments. Both blades are doing the cutting so both blades are filed at 45 degrees.

Larry

Yep both blades on my machine are angled 45 deg.

SS if your blades are 45 deg and 90 deg you need to do the 90 at 90 to remove the damaged/rounded part.

A file would be hard work on well used blades but i have touched mine up with a raker file on occasion, To cut fine plants, Gorse is about the worst followed by broom!
 
Yep both blades on my machine are angled 45 deg.

SS if your blades are 45 deg and 90 deg you need to do the 90 at 90 to remove the damaged/rounded part.

A file would be hard work on well used blades but i have touched mine up with a raker file on occasion, To cut fine plants, Gorse is about the worst followed by broom!
Man, You guys are really scaring me now.LOL
 
I don't know if this helps or not.

I have a 020 and an 015 set-up with the hedgetrimmer attachments.

The manuel for the 020 covers sharpening the blades. 45 degrees is the angle. A file is recommended.

Your blades look different though. One side looks like it serves as an anvil and the other side is doing the cutting. On my chainsaw hedgetrimmer attachments. Both blades are doing the cutting so both blades are filed at 45 degrees.

Larry
I believe you are right the bottom one doesn't move, Shoot now i gotta go out and see if both move. be back in a minute. If i can get out there it may be raining by now.
 
Okay here they are you can see a little damage on the pics, But the worst is under that aluminum gaurd. Man, after looking at these close ups it tells me i didn't clean it up very good.lol They have been abused.

The top side.

chainsaws122.jpg


The bottom side

chainsaws123.jpg


Where they both go into the gearbox.

chainsaws124.jpg
 
Yep both blades on my machine are angled 45 deg.

SS if your blades are 45 deg and 90 deg you need to do the 90 at 90 to remove the damaged/rounded part.

A file would be hard work on well used blades but i have touched mine up with a raker file on occasion, To cut fine plants, Gorse is about the worst followed by broom!


Agreed, SS blades look well worn compared to what I have. Replacement would be better as SS blades look like they need some major work.

I don't mean to be negative. Only basing an opinion on what I see and what I have. Those hedge saws may have a whole different blade system than what chainsaw attachments use.

I am not an expert on these hedgecutters by no means. A hedgesaw is a specfic application tool. My stuff is more multi purpose add-ons for a powerhead.

I don't even use mine. I just have them in my collection as curio's. I also collect bow and brush bars for different powerheads because they are different and make good conversation pieces. I get bored with regular chainsaws and straight bars so I collect these oddball attachments for chainsaws.

Larry
 
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Just follow the angle in the blue until you remove the damaged part in orange back to its flat, Easy peasy:)
 
Agreed, SS blades look well worn compared to what I have. Replacement would be better as SS blades look like they need some major work.

I don't mean to be negative. Only basing an opinion on what I see and what I have. Those hedge saws may have a whole different blade system than what chainsaw attachments use.

I am not an expert on these hedgecutters by no means. A hedgesaw is a specfic application tool. My stuff is more multi purpose add-ons for a powerhead.

I don't even use mine. I just have them in my collection as curio's. I also collect bow and brush bars for different powerheads because they are different and make good conversation pieces. I get bored with regular chainsaws and straight bars so I collect these oddball attachments for chainsaws.

Larry

An angle grinder would have them back to new in a half an hour start to finish!

Hey SS those blades aint abused thats just normal wear!

I kind of removed some the aluminium gaurd on mine as it wouldnt allow the blades in to cut some of the stuff we do. SHHH

IMO a hedge trimmer is more dangerous than a chainsaw i have a few nips in my boilersuit from it, You hold it a lot closer to your body than a saw.

They are hard work for a whole day unless everything is at waisthight!
 
Well, the worst part is under the aluminum gaurd. They have some heavy gouges in them. You got it right about harder than a chainsaw. Your always holding the weight instead of laying it on the tree. If we make it through the storms tonight i will call monday and if no can do i will go get a thin disc and try it myself. What can i lose. If i mess em up i will order a new set. But goatta have my trimmer.
 
Welcome to my world... beat up and dull blades.

It's simple...just like a saw chain, don't cut with dull blades or they are a bi?tch to sharpen. Most guys don't ever think about it, even those that run saws.

The flat raker file from Stihl (and many others) makes easy work of sharpening IF done regularly... I can touch up my HT blades in less then 3 minutes - just one or two stokes per angled surface (never ever try to "sharpen" the flat side...).

If the are like in the pics above, angle grinder, but don't "blue" the edges. Once hit with and angle grinder they are a pain to file or even touch up as the surface is no longer flat and regular.

Most dealers do not take the blades apart - way too time consuming. For best results, you really do need to.


Lube - Spray cooking oil, like "Pam". For pitch removal -Purple cleaner or whatever it takes, then dry and lube before putting away.
 
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Welcome to my world... beat up and dull blades.

It's simple...just like a saw chain, don't cut with dull blades or they are a bi?tch to sharpen. Most guys don't ever think about it, even those that run saws.

The flat raker file from Stihl (and many others) makes easy work of sharpening IF done regularly... I can touch on my HT blades in less then 3 minutes - just one or two stokes per angled surface (never ever try to "sharpen" the flat side...).

If the are like in the pics above, angle grinder, but don't "blue" the edges. Once hit with and angle grinder they are a pain to file or even touch up as the surface is no longer flat and regular.

Most dealers do not take the blades apart - way too time consuming. For best results, you really do need to.


Lube - Spray cooking oil, like "Pam". For pitch removal -Purple cleaner or whatever it takes, then dry and lube before putting away.
Thanks they definitley need to be taken apart and cleaned. Never knew they was that bad untill the macro shots.
 
My appologies for the crude paint picture...

In my HS45 manual, it covers sharpening the blades.

Use a flat crosscut sharpening file...
Always file towards the cutting edge...

So, Is this depiction correct? Or am I misunderstanding this. I've always sharpened an axe or hatchet into the blade like this, but I've been searching the internet and have found people doing this both ways. I'm so confused now... And without a cute little picture in the manual, I guess it leaves it up for interpretation. I mean if you think about doing it the other way, you're moving the file away from the base and toward the cutting edge... Thanks in advance.

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