Humboldt vs. Conventional

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Full wraps a cosmetic thing and a hinderance??? 🤣🤣 Man! You are most definitely riding the wrong train! 🤣🤣 You best stick with them half wraps and to link 'n' logg 'n there sweetheart.👍
I have both. :) Love my full wraps but when I have to cut real close to the ground, the fill wrap gets in the way and hangs on the root flares. I have done saw repair for now decades. Can't tell you how many saws have come in that were originally full wraps with the cut off. I have full wraps on one of my 572's and 395's with the longer bars. The standard on another 572 and the 562's I run with 24inch bars. Part of the reason is on several of my jobs the land owner wanted the stumps cut real close to minimize issues with the other operations , tractors or what ever. ALL of the tree's I take off my own place I cut close. So on those stumps or trees where the cut needs to be close to the ground the standard handle is the preferred setup. And that's actually most of the work I do and see out here. And yet again I see the value and use both vs. trying to jam one concept or another.

The OTHER reason btw I'll do a humboldt is for clearing. If I'm coming back with an excavator to dig out the stumps, another frequent deal for me, I need a higher taller stump to give me leverage to yank that tree & stump. The higher the cut the easier to use the humboldt but also easier to pull over and out with my excavator.
 
Another "Humboldt" candidate right next to a trail. But then had to cut the stump with the short bar, the standard handle was best because on THAT day I had a short 24 inch bar instead of the usual 28Stump.jpg
 
This one was a high value tree so it was a "root flare" hinge for me. Worth the extra time spent. And this was one where the approach was encouraged by the mill / log buyer. That's where I get my "lead" from to choose the approach to harvesting these trees. Or who ever "owns" the job & want me to cut in a particular way. Fortunately I have the skills and the tools to adapt and not stuck on some ideology. Did this with a full wrap and was actually criticized a bit for leaving the additional 6 or 8 inches "wasted". It was just what I had on that day.
rootflare.jpg
 
I post cut'n clips on YouTube all the time. What's wrong with that? I don't give two frogs f***'n who watches them! Who doesn't watch them. Who hits that "Iike button" or who doesn't. I post them for entertainment. Now call me a Zero then make me a Hero and hurry. I'm hungry!
View attachment 1072796
I thought I said it was about reality shows and YouTuber's
May have said YouTube's
 
Gathered with 6-7 Fallers in camp more than a few times and heard many stories about Marcel. (Some funny ones)
Said he could cut a 12ft tree in 7 min (Cedar comes to mind under right circumstances ) sounded like it was a regular thing for him. Nobody was calling BS..I mean nobody. French Canadian right. Generally talented, hard working with massive stamina. Just excellent Fallers. Don't see them anymore. Youngest one I knew is about 47 yr now. One is my age at 55 and other, 56. All really good Fallers. When someone said Marcel is a really good Faller. The younger French guy (41 at the time with 20 yrs coast) said.."of course, he's French! but I'm not talking about me"
He was a good Faller in his own right. Did a double up on a heli block with him.

Marcel did 42 yrs. First pic was in Hinton Alberta in 1965. First pic I saw on coast wss 1970 up against a 8ft tree in Tofino BC, Van Island.
Knew a Faller in 2005 up north coast BC. Tried to get a seat with them. Certifications were just coming in that year. He was 50 and had been Falling coat for 30 yrs. I asked, "so were you able to grandfather in? He said no, you need 40 yrs. Haha.
I understand it now.
Guys start at 19-20 year. If you are 30 yrs in then you could be around for 8-12 yrs. If you are 40 yrs in then ... Just like Marcel, who was gone in 2 yrs. It's like you made it this long then who are we to try to tell you different. I agree.

There will always be exemptions when Legends are nearing to the 60 mark.
Like this one .. " Everyone has to have their log book" Then Dave says.." I don't have a log book, I don't need a log book, I haven't had one for 5 yrs"
The contractor that is asking is launching as hard as everyone else. We may laugh but all the rest comply. When worker comp was flying around visiting us ('Them' the GODS of BC) and visited Dave. When asked how it went, Dave replied.." OH NO, He RESPECTED ME, he respected me.




I was gonna point out, but you can tell that Marcel would eviscerate Bjarne, the guy in the other vid. I didn't know for sure but with a name like Marcel Levesque, you can't not be French.
I'm 25% myself, mom's mom was from Burgundy. No wonder I'm so ****in good!
If I ever decide to have kids, Marcel is first pick for a boy.
Thanks for sharing!
 
This one was a high value tree so it was a "root flare" hinge for me. Worth the extra time spent. Did over 100 like that on this place. And this was one where the approach was encouraged by the mill / log buyer. That's where I get my "lead" from to choose the approach to harvesting these trees. Or who ever "owns" the job & want me to cut in a particular way. Fortunately I have the skills and the tools to adapt and not stuck on some ideology. Did this with a full wrap and was actually criticized a bit for leaving the additional 6 or 8 inches "wasted". It was just what I had on that day.



Tried that the other day & drifted way off target. Pretty funny given the micro scale of things. That twisted grain did not hold long..
Mills don't want that root grain anyways. They always cut it off where we sent stuff out east. Just give the mill free firewood....
IMG_20230331_120140_01.jpg
 
Looks like it didn't hit anything, looks almost inline with the hinge from here. That would a tree to sell? Wonder what the angle in that face cut was. On mine, it the face cut closes before the hinge breaks. It breaks right then...and drops pretty much straight after the hinge no longer is intact. Or if I don't leave enough hinge on tree's like the red oak, they break easy anyway and once broke the tree drops straight like a stone.

Cool saw, what is that saw?

This one I cut too much out of the hinge and it broke . Didn't matter. But it was off around 10-15 degrees. Would not have been acceptable in a residential job threading some needle. Here? didn't matter
drifted.jpg
 
All through this thread, there is one aspect of a Humboldt cut that no one has mentioned. You see, I'm a flat-lander arborist, and mostly never care about harvesting the wood. My tree work always involves leaving a flat stump, and I don't care about the log. Most often leaving a stump as close to the ground as possible, so as to allow for stump grinding. ...or for putting a flower pot on. :laugh:
Only rarely do I have a need for the Humboldt. But when I do, it's an absolute pain to do because my saws are all 1/2 wrap with little baby bucking spikes on them (except for the 3120 Husky).

When you go to cutting a humboldt and your saw has dinky bucking spikes, it can be a lot more difficult to pull that saw "uphill" in the cut, particularly if you are trying to do it on the 1/2 wrap side of your saw.

I just thought I'd mention that, especially since some folks have been commenting on the relative value of full wrap saw handles.
 
All through this thread, there is one aspect of a Humboldt cut that no one has mentioned. You see, I'm a flat-lander arborist, and mostly never care about harvesting the wood. My tree work always involves leaving a flat stump, and I don't care about the log. Most often leaving a stump as close to the ground as possible, so as to allow for stump grinding.
Only rarely do I have a need for the Humboldt. But when I do, it's an absolute pain to do because my saws are all 1/2 wrap with little baby bucking spikes on them (except for the 3120 Husky).

When you go to cutting a humboldt and your saw has dinky bucking spikes, it can be a lot more difficult to pull that saw "uphill" in the cut, particularly if you are trying to do it on the 1/2 wrap side of your saw.

I just thought I'd mention that, especially since some folks have been commenting on the relative value of full wrap saw handles.
Interesting . Was setting up headed to the woods. That goofy 562 on the end has a western style long bucking spike from that Husqvarna full wrap "kit" with a standard handle. :) Humboldts are its game for the reason you articulated, kind of landed that way and I never really thought about it. 572 with a full wrap and 585 the "usual suspects. 585 now is the felling saw. Actually nervous to put the long spikes on it (585) as that case design doesn't look like it would like to be much for abuse.

1680792743029.png
 
This one was a high value tree so it was a "root flare" hinge for me. Worth the extra time spent. And this was one where the approach was encouraged by the mill / log buyer. That's where I get my "lead" from to choose the approach to harvesting these trees. Or who ever "owns" the job & want me to cut in a particular way. Fortunately I have the skills and the tools to adapt and not stuck on some ideology. Did this with a full wrap and was actually criticized a bit for leaving the additional 6 or 8 inches "wasted". It was just what I had on that day.
View attachment 1072808
Use wedges much?
 
All through this thread, there is one aspect of a Humboldt cut that no one has mentioned. You see, I'm a flat-lander arborist, and mostly never care about harvesting the wood. My tree work always involves leaving a flat stump, and I don't care about the log. Most often leaving a stump as close to the ground as possible, so as to allow for stump grinding.
Only rarely do I have a need for the Humboldt. But when I do, it's an absolute pain to do because my saws are all 1/2 wrap with little baby bucking spikes on them (except for the 3120 Husky).

When you go to cutting a humboldt and your saw has dinky bucking spikes, it can be a lot more difficult to pull that saw "uphill" in the cut, particularly if you are trying to do it on the 1/2 wrap side of your saw.

I just thought I'd mention that, especially since some folks have been commenting on the relative value of full wrap saw handles.
facts lol the wee little spikes are about useless, its why we call em felling spikes rather then bucking spikes. Good point too.

folks like to put extra long aftermarket Dogs on thier saws, which mystifies me a little, cause they are usually softer metal, and take an inch off your bar length over the factory big dogs... and they don't seem to offer much advantage other then stabbing you in the thigh and back of the neck... they do grip better, but I don't see that as enough of an advantage


As for arboristas and standard face cuts, running the log truck I see that stuff all the time, big huge face cuts that they then leave in the log... makes em pretty hard to keep in a log truck at times, as well as me getting calls from said arborista whining about how they didn't get paid what they thought they should get paid.... bruh YOU bucked them, not me.

That big slope cut gets hung up on the bunks, then wants to slip out, the bunks on a west coast log truck spin, then couple that with it being pretty tough to get a huge butt log to cooperate to begin with, they can be really hard to roll so that the slope is away from the bunks.... Now keep in mind, the only thing keeping our log trailers attached to the truck... is the logs... a great big 45 deg slope on half the logs isn't what I would call ideal.
 
I noticed in an earlier picture that one of the stump cuts was featuring that god-awful Game-of-logging style of tall, super wide open face. Isn't that reducing the amount of wood available for a mill to use, in addition to complicating the logs staying on the log trailer bunks?

I never could figure out a reason for making that face cut. Oops. That's off topic. We got a whole other thread that beats on the GOL methods.
 
I noticed in an earlier picture that one of the stump cuts was featuring that god-awful Game-of-logging style of tall, super wide open face. Isn't that reducing the amount of wood available for a mill to use, in addition to complicating the logs staying on the log trailer bunks?

I never could figure out a reason for making that face cut. Oops. That's off topic. We got a whole other thread that beats on the GOL methods.
thats that dreaded this is how I was taught how dare you question my intelligence thing rearing its pointy cross eyed head...
If I think about this long enough my eyes will roll right back and I can see that booger I've been working on for 3 days...
 
Vintage Cinema GIF by Rogue Artists Ensemble
 
thats that dreaded this is how I was taught how dare you question my intelligence thing rearing its pointy cross eyed head...
:laughing:
If I think about this long enough my eyes will roll right back and I can see that booger I've been working on for 3 days...

Now I happen to recall your previous thoughts on that, but given the context of the recent picture in this thread, I thought I would get your opinion on how the GOL cut affects the value of the log, especially with respect to transportation and final value of the log. That's not what I do for a living.

You still didn't answer the question!
Yellow Bird Please GIF by Salesforce
 
Back
Top