Huskie 55 Closed Port Piston

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One of my 55 closed port saws had the piston scored worse than that one. I cleaned up the piston, cylinder and ring and put it right back in service. It has over 150psi compression now for nearly 10 years and runs flawlessly.

The important thing here is that the bore is not torn up with long/deep grooves the entire distance, and that the ring is in good shape and fits tight but moves freely in the groove. The piston skirt really doesn't matter if it has vertical scoring, as long as it fits tight in the bore......Cliff

Cliff, are running your 55s without a base gasket to get over 150 compression ? I had a fleeting thought to eliminate the gasket but a little nervous about getting sealant in the impulse port in the case.
 
IMHO the best option out there. Good quality piston.

+1....Unfortunately, OEM or Meteor replacement is not an option. I measured my ring end gap this afternoon and it is .254 mm or .010 in. According to the service manual, ring end gap over 1 mm requires replacing the ring. I will re-use the ring & run the piston as repaired rather than try a chi-com piston. Darn-it, my saw work is on hold due to kids/grandkids this coming weekend. I am ready to put this saw back together.
 
Seems critical to me to ensure the intake system in this saw is pressure/vac tested. For those familiar w/ this saw, how is this best done ? As the impulse port is through the partition to the carb, do you guys test these saws with the front of the carb & exhaust plugged, then test through the spark plug hole with a modified spark plug with a nipple ?
I am considering reinstalling the repaired piston/cylinder, blocking the exhaust and intake sides of the cylinder and pressure/vac testing the seals and base gasket first, the assembling the intake and retesting. This way I can eliminate the seals and base gasket when I test the intake.
 
Seems critical to me to ensure the intake system in this saw is pressure/vac tested. For those familiar w/ this saw, how is this best done ? As the impulse port is through the partition to the carb, do you guys test these saws with the front of the carb & exhaust plugged, then test through the spark plug hole with a modified spark plug with a nipple ?
I am considering reinstalling the repaired piston/cylinder, blocking the exhaust and intake sides of the cylinder and pressure/vac testing the seals and base gasket first, the assembling the intake and retesting. This way I can eliminate the seals and base gasket when I test the intake.
Make a block off out of an old bike tube, place it between the carb and partition, use spark plug adapter as a test port.
 
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