Husky 2100 gas in oil

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I've had this particular saw since new. I retired loggin' with it and kept it as a work saw for my business when folks call me to fall something 'difficult'(which usually translates to deadly) and/or when they have a contract stand they want me to fall. I've put a lot of parts into it recently, not the least of which was a new/used tank assembly. The original tank started to seam leak oil on the bottom. I started a thread about it some yrs ago. Decided to split the case, dig all the old epoxy out and re-epoxy. Horrible amount of time in that and the epoxy only held for about two months.

So I bought a used tank from Scott @chasinsawr.com. He noted it had a couple of handlebar screw holes stripped. I wound up inserting four of the holes with steel inserts. That cost me more than the tank.:angry: Anyway, I thought I had this leak issue fixed. The only clues I can give is that oil always pools out of the oil cap and I've even bought other caps. Comes right out the vent holes in the cap. I even posted about that because Husky always listed the oil & gas cap with different #'s and probably we are getting 'whatever' in the used parts market today.

Bu I can deal with that...the REAL problem is that when the saw sits overnight with oil & gas in it, somehow the gas is leeching into the oil tank. I just don't have a clue how this is happening, other than a direct leak between the two tanks at a internal seam? If gas is dumped out of the tank before I store it, all is well, of course. The oil sits there except for leaking out of cap as mentioned. And in using the saw, even all day, there is no problem with the gas in the oil.

Even if the gas tank vent was clogged, I don't see how it's pushing gas into the oil chamber. And I don't remember any cross-contamination possibilities through any hoses...:confused2: I thought about getting a fiber optic light and poking around through the whole gas tank....not sure if I could pinpoint the leak. I think I heard about this problem before, but no fix. I'm happy to blame the tank, but I just can't keep shucking in new/used tanks for a trial run.

Kevin
 
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Sounds like you got your use out of it. If the saw is really for your business, and your business is cutting trees, you're ready for a MS 880.
 
Guys...I'm not in the market for a $1,800+(new) replacement for this saw. I have plenty of compression and the saw runs fine. This is most probably a simple fix if I can just nail it down. Please respond if you have any other ideas than buying a newer saw. My business isn't cutting trees anymore(I'm a rural fencing contractor).....it's a sideline thing when requested. I also have two Jonnies; 80,90 that give me no issues whatsoever....although they're more fun to fix than the 2100.:msp_wink:

Kevin
 
Guys...I'm not in the market for a $1,800+(new) replacement for this saw. I have plenty of compression and the saw runs fine. This is most probably a simple fix if I can just nail it down. Please respond if you have any other ideas than buying a newer saw. My business isn't cutting trees anymore(I'm a rural fencing contractor).....it's a sideline thing when requested. I also have two Jonnies; 80,90 that give me no issues whatsoever....although they're more fun to fix than the 2100.:msp_wink:

Kevin

SSOooorryyy! :taped:
 
It's the seals on the manual aux oil pump leaking....The outside of the plunger passes right through the gas section of the tank and there are two seals to keep the oil and gas from cross contaminating.....First place I'd look on a 2100 with that problem.
 
It's the seals on the manual aux oil pump leaking....The outside of the plunger passes right through the gas section of the tank and there are two seals to keep the oil and gas from cross contaminating.....First place I'd look on a 2100 with that problem.

Thank you! Now this is what I was after. You're talking about the O-rings seals on the outside of the manual oiler, right? I can certainly replace those easy enough. I thought when I transferred my oiler over to the new/used tank, I did that....probably not or maybe I rolled one of the O-rings. Great post...:clap:

Kevin
 
Well, well...guess what I found? NO O-ring on the bottom of the plunger; where it fits back into the oil tank cavity. That would do it, ya think?!

It's the same size O-ring as the bottom one on the internal plunger-according to the IPL.....then I could size it. Sure wished I had that tool to take the plunger assembly nut out-vise grips just scar the nut.

JockeyD...you be da man today!:bowdown::bowdown::msp_thumbsup:

Kevin
 
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Nice....makes me feel all warm and fuzzy!:hmm3grin2orange:

So....do you have any thoughts on the oil cap dilemma? Did the OE oil cap not have vent holes and I'm trying to use a gas cap in an oil cap application? I can't see any purpose in having vent holes in an oil cap. Parts #'s were always different between the two...since I'm buying parts wherever I can find them, I have no idea if I'm using the correct oil cap. I get this one figured out and the saw's just about 100%. :msp_wink:

Kevin
 
So....do you have any thoughts on the oil cap dilemma? Did the OE oil cap not have vent holes and I'm trying to use a gas cap in an oil cap application? I can't see any purpose in having vent holes in an oil cap. Parts #'s were always different between the two...since I'm buying parts wherever I can find them, I have no idea if I'm using the correct oil cap. I get this one figured out and the saw's just about 100%. :msp_wink:

Kevin

The vented cap is only needed on the oil cap I think, as the oil tank doesn't have any other vent....The gas tank has a top vent, so doesn't need a vented cap.

I've seen a couple styles of caps, but most of the vented ones had a red rubber umbrella vent to allow air in, but no fluid out, so if it's missing the cap will ooze all the time....maybe?
 
kevin-my 2100 oil cap looks like the gas cap but has two small holes through it. it is covered on the inside by a thin flap washer that acts as a one way valve when oil is drawn from the tank by the auto oiler or the manual pump. there's one bottom center and lower right in this group photo, also mid right. there is another one , can you find it ? haha, sorry best pic i could find.

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edit- jockey duece has it, red disc flap.holes easy to clog.
 
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Well if that's the case(oil cap has the vents, gas cap doesn't), then I have two oil caps. I just wouldn't think there would be any pressure build-up in the oil tank, but maybe the theory was that as you use oil out, air has to replace the oil that's gone to keep an even flow going.

These two caps are identical and grey bought recently off fleabay, because my old ones had cracked orange diaphragms. These work fine, but as I said, oil leaks right through the vent hole, not the sealing ring or any other place....I've watched it leak out. The orange diaphragms seem supple & intact. It takes all night, but I'm presented with a sticky mess in the morning. The 2100 is a beast and although the saw was never 'house broken', this mess has got to stop.:bang:

These caps I bought are of a later run....maybe off a 2101 or something, hence the grey color. My two original, black caps both have vent holes as well....I can't trust them to be OE after all these yrs though. I could easily have picked up a replacement cap or two since the late 70's, although I always ordered by part# back then.

I don't understand this oil cap leaking. I even switched the two caps and it always leaks on the oil tank, but never on the gas tank.:msp_confused:

Kevin
 
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