Husky 22 ton splitter valve question

[sb47]

I have a Husky 22 ton splitter and it has worked very well over the years.
I’m starting to have issues with the hydraulic valve lever.
It works fine when you’re pushing the cylinder outward, but the automatic return is not working rite.
I have to push it much harder then in the past and it won’t stay in the return position.
Also on the back side of the valve there is a cap held with 2 screws, inside is a rod and spring with an o ring. I’m getting a leak where it bolts on.
There is no gasket where it bolts together, it’s just metal to metal.
I tried making a gasket and it blew out and I even tried silicone but it blows out as well.
This splitter has split hundreds of cords with no issues till now.

Question: can the valve be rebuilt or is it better and/or cheaper to replace the whole valve.

Thanks Dennis

 

[Halfrsed]

A common problem.

I had the same issue with a similar model sold in Australia, the piston in the control valve wouldn't seal (there's no O-ring in them) and my attempt to make a gasket failed to hold the pressure.

Replacement cost down here was about $130 but I improvised :msp_w00t:

I drilled a small hole in the end cap and threaded it to take a small (6mm, around 1/4 inch) bolt with a hole drilled through it.
Then I pushed on some 6mm plastic air line,zip tied to the pressure hose and ran that back to the oil tank and into a hole drilled in the filler cap.

Been working fine for a couple of years, I must get around to fitting a new valve one day :msp_biggrin:

 

[Butch(OH)]

As you have discovered there is no way a gasket or goop is going to contain system pressures. As designed the fit of the spool to the valve body in all valves prevents most leakage. The higher end valves are internally ported to allow leakage to go to a lower pressure(return) area and the seal at the end of the bore only has to hold minimal pressures and lasts virtually forever, your splitter valve is not made this way as the valve would cost half what you paid for the splitter.
The cheap valves have no porting and simply use an O-ring at the end of the bore that must withstand system pressure plus the spool movements. I have heard of valves that don't even have the oring and rely totally on the fit. Take it apart and put a new oring in it if yours has one. If the spool is scored dont expect it to hold for long. Detent problems can be either rust or wear. I suspect that by the time it's all said and done you will have a new valve, just my experience.

 

[Halfrsed]

Detent problems can be either rust or wear. I suspect that by the time it's all said and done you will have a new valve, just my experience.

The detent trouble is because the pressure behind the piston is trying to force the valve back into the neutral position.

I had EXACTLY the same problem as sb47 and my halfrsed repair has solved it at least for now.

 

[sb47]

TS wants $189.00 for a new valve. seems kinda pricy to me.
Not sure if i want to fork out that kind of money.
On the other hand it is a pain in the butt holding the lever in the return and waiting for it to retract so i can load a new chunk of wood.
kinda slows me down.
i was wondering if the existing valve can be rebuilt.

 

[sb47]

Is there a better valve that i can put in its place?

 

[CWME]

Northern tool has the log splitter valves for under $100. I think I paid $89.99 for a double detent a few years ago. I wouldn't pay the TS price.

 

[Fifelaker]

Surplus center has good prices on all things hydraulic.

 

[triptester]

The cover at the back of the valve should not have a gasket it is only a dust cover. Many valves will have a vent in the cover. If fluid is leaking from the cover it is because the rear o-ring is damaged.
Unfortunately it appears that most of the consumer grade splitters have been switching to imported hydraulic pumps and valves which are of lesser quality.
Prince,Energy,Brand and Brave valves were mostly used before the switch to imports. They can be found for under $100.

 

[blades]

Import valves are best just replaced with a known name as stated above. Log splitter valves are single detent, not double. If you are thinking that you might want to add a lift or something then get a new valve with the power beyond option. Or you can go all out with Prince's auto return unit ( was around $350) with power beyond. This is a 2 spool unit that auto retracts the ram at the end of the extend stroke. I keep waiting for my 11 gpm import pump or spider to go south so I have a reason to replace it with a higher out put.

 

[CWME]

Log splitter valves are single detent, not double.

I put a double on mine, works great for straight grained wood. Kicks off if the wood needs a little extra power but you would be surprised what will split without kicking out.

 

[shansen]

iF YOUR VALVE SAYS ENERGY ON IT, YOU CAN ORDER PARTS OR REPLACE IT HERE:
(Sorry for the caps)

Log Splitter Valve and Accessories by Energy® Manufacturing Company, Inc.

 

[sb47]

Now it seems to be working a little better on its own.
Most the time anyway.lol