Just tested a stock 44mm 350...was nearer to 170. Compression near 100 is nearly not running. Gonna have a hard time convincing me that 100 comp is normal
Husky 350 Rebuild Question
- Thread starter TNmatt
- Start date
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Yoopermike
ArboristSite Guru
Yoopermike
ArboristSite Guru
My 350 runs 110psi and I cut with it regularly.
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey, I remember that.
I can understand a runner at 120, and I know about the dished piston on the 45mm 350's ... but 100 being normal, I dunno
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
This saw did have the dished 45mm piston and according to the shop it was around 100 but ran pretty poorly and the piston was scored
ya, that's because of that stupid plastic clamp
whats more interesting, I've called around to local husky dealers, and there are quite a few here in CT... they all looked at my crosseyed when I asked if they had the metal clamp in stock. one dealer said he's sold ONE, ever... this is insane because these saws are so popular....and they all eventually eat themselves because of the air leak.
oh well.. ..but it certainly explains lower compression...given a little more running that saw would be down to 70 psi when the ring sticks
whats more interesting, I've called around to local husky dealers, and there are quite a few here in CT... they all looked at my crosseyed when I asked if they had the metal clamp in stock. one dealer said he's sold ONE, ever... this is insane because these saws are so popular....and they all eventually eat themselves because of the air leak.
oh well.. ..but it certainly explains lower compression...given a little more running that saw would be down to 70 psi when the ring sticks
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
Well got the saw all put back together and started it up and I can't say that it runs any better than it did before. Pretty frustrated. I noticed 2 bad spots on the cylinder that I hadn't noticed before, they were barely deep enough to catch my fingernail on. Not sure if you can tell in the picture but I'm assuming that is the problem. So now i guess I'm looking for a new cylinder but I haven't seen just a cylinder, everything Ive found online comes with a piston which I already have. Is it worth trying to hone this one?
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think that would hurt. Meteor piston with Mahle cylinder? Probably better check the squish. What is your compression? Did you leak test the saw? Can you tell us some more about how it runs?
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't leak test it because I didn't have the equipment but I resealed everything. My grandad is bringing me a compression gauge tomorrow so I'll check that and let you know. I don't have a micrometer either so I didn't check squish. It started right up but it idles pretty high, I started with all the carb screws backed out 1 turn to start and the idle would speed up a little but would never slow down enough for the chain to stop spinning. I may have to break down and buy a pressure/vacuum tester this week.
you can always test it with some carb cleaner.... you have to be careful you don't start a fire, but get the saw running and spray carb cleaner at the intake.... if the saw bogs and dies you have a leak
if the seals and bearings are new then I can't imagine that's the leak... what did you seal with?
if the seals and bearings are new then I can't imagine that's the leak... what did you seal with?
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't put new bearings or seals in it I just re-sealed the riser to the case. I pretty much followed your video step by step as far as sealing goes Mattyo. I used the gas resistant Permatex Motoseal. I also put the metal clamp on the intake as well. Do the decomp valves on these saws leak ever? If I end up having to tear it down again I'll do the bearings and seals, I guess I naively thought they would be fine.
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
I just sprayed carb cleaner around the intake while it was running and it didn't seem to do anything
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
I tried adjusting the idle screw and low speed screw but it would only increase the idle it wouldn't slow down any, I didn't mess with the high speed screw yet.
TNmatt
ArboristSite Lurker
No problem, this is the first time building a saw and I'm no mechanic so any advice is helpful. I'm not sure how to check for the limiter caps, any advice?
I love to save parts if I can, but if I saw a chassis melt like yours did, those bearings and seals go in the trash. it is not possible to pull them apart, so they go as a unit. new bearings and seals go on easy, so that's what I would do, also, I think cleaning the cylinder is fine at this point, and swapping out the decomp valve is a good idea too.
if it doesn't idle, something is up.... too much air at idle will keep the rpm high. ie, air leak.
if the saw is still together, you can pull the clutch off and check the clutch side seal when the saw is running for a leak, again, carb cleaner...
your intake probably ISN"T the cause of the leak if the carb cleaner does nothing... on my 385xp my intake clamp was loose, and when I sprayed carb cleaner, the saw died. tighten the clamp, all better
if it doesn't idle, something is up.... too much air at idle will keep the rpm high. ie, air leak.
if the saw is still together, you can pull the clutch off and check the clutch side seal when the saw is running for a leak, again, carb cleaner...
your intake probably ISN"T the cause of the leak if the carb cleaner does nothing... on my 385xp my intake clamp was loose, and when I sprayed carb cleaner, the saw died. tighten the clamp, all better
dsell
Addicted to ArboristSite
They may look something like this and you will only be able to turn the screw so far if they are on. You would pry, pull, cut them off carefully, or grind the part that's keeping them from turning. You should be able to shut the saw off with these screws. If you can't, something is wrong with the carb. Are you sure the butterfly is closed? Make sure the throttle linkage isn't binding on something. These carbs have a fast idle catch, and you won't be able to adjust the low side of the carb if the butterfly is partially open.
