Husky 357xp crank snapped

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Dlish1971

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Hi all,

I was crosscutting some logs for the fire yesterday when my faithfull husky 357 xp (2002) gave up the ghost. The end of the crank has sheared clean off at the base of the screw thread just under the clutch! And I just bought a new 18" bar and two chains :msp_sad:

Phoned a couple of parts suppliers and they want in the region of £240 for a new crank and the saw only cost me £200. Not to mention that changing the crank seems like a big job.

Just a couple of questions, has anyone had to change the crank in a husky and is it as big a pain as it looks. Also I don't suppose any one has a scrapper 357xp they would be willing to sell me?

Thanks in advance

Darren
 
I just split a 359 last week. They aren't any worse than the others I have done. There are about 6 screws that hold the case halves together. I ordered a used 357 crank from chainsawr.com yesterday. They are $65 US. I don't know if he will ship to the UK.
 
First, I've never heard of that happening.

Second, like nmurph said, it's not that difficult to replace. I'd get new bearings and seals while at it.
 
Thanks for the quick replies.

Just checked chainsawr.com, they do post to the UK but are out of stock.

Yes Sunfish, the guys at the two parts shops I spoke to seemed surprised that this has happened and think the saw might have been badly dropped at some point. When I got it there was a hairline crack in the clutch cover which could have happened at the same time. Thanks for the advice on the bearings and seals, do I need to get a replacement cylinder base gasket aswell, the manual says it should be replaced?

Just noticed some realy cheap cranks on e-bay that are not Husky only a replacement. Anyone tried these and are they any good.

Thanks again for all the help

Darren
 
I wanted to do it back when I had a 357 and 359. I sold the 357, so that plan went by the wayside. I got a 359 with what I thought was wrecked crank bearings in the big lot of saws I got recently. It turns out not only was one of the crank bearings shot, but so was the big end bearing. I figured I might as well replace the 359 crank with the 357 since they were the same cost. The top end of the saw is perfect. I should have the crank this tomorrow. The saw is apart and cleaned, and ready to go back together. It was going to be a seller, but it may hang around for a while, now.
 
357 is a full-circle crank much like a modern bike or sled crank. 359 is the familiar "pork chop" style.

BTW, why can't all saws have full circle cranks? Is there some disadvantage to the reduced crankcase volume that they provide? Something tells Me they are considerably more costly to produce but I could be wrong.
 
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357 crank has full circle counterweights created by some adapter cups
 
So, I'm curious, guys......What is the difference between a 357 crank and a 359 cranK??:msp_confused:

Same crank, but the 357 one has crank stuffers (full circle cover around the counter weights), this reduces crank case volume for performance.

Darren, I'd try to stick with OEM Husky crank, but the others might be OK, I don't know. A 359 crank will work also.
 
I wanted to do it back when I had a 357 and 359. I sold the 357, so that plan went by the wayside. I got a 359 with what I thought was wrecked crank bearings in the big lot of saws I got recently. It turns out not only was one of the crank bearings shot, but so was the big end bearing. I figured I might as well replace the 359 crank with the 357 since they were the same cost. The top end of the saw is perfect. I should have the crank this tomorrow. The saw is apart and cleaned, and ready to go back together. It was going to be a seller, but it may hang around for a while, now.

Yeah, I'd keep it. Have heard a few guys say a ported 359 was the fastest/strongest 60cc saw they've ever run.

Show us what ya got if you port it. :msp_smile:
 
Thanks for the quick replies.

Just checked chainsawr.com, they do post to the UK but are out of stock.

Yes Sunfish, the guys at the two parts shops I spoke to seemed surprised that this has happened and think the saw might have been badly dropped at some point. When I got it there was a hairline crack in the clutch cover which could have happened at the same time. Thanks for the advice on the bearings and seals, do I need to get a replacement cylinder base gasket aswell, the manual says it should be replaced?

Just noticed some realy cheap cranks on e-bay that are not Husky only a replacement. Anyone tried these and are they any good.

Thanks again for all the help

Darren


Email him.....he didn't have any listed when I searched on the site Monday. But I sent an email and he responded that he had several. He listed one and emailed me. I logged in and bought it.

I would measure the squish of the piston. That is the clearance bw the piston and cylinder at very out portion of the cylinder. You can go as low as ~.018 and not have problems. You can use some solder, inserted through the spark plug hole to measure this gap. I have a 359 that has the squish lowered and the muffler modded and it is a totally different saw. It will easily hand my stock 361 its butt.
 
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I stand corrected, I didn't realize that the stuffers were just cups that go on the crank. Same idea, though. Someone should come up with some of those cups to fit other popular saws.
 
Kinda unusual to have the crank snap, but sh*t happens, lol.;) Splitting the cases isn't bad, but like the other posters said you definitely want to replace the bearings and seals. You can get 6202 C3 bearings at any decent bearing house, I use nachi brand (japan) bearings, they're very good, and they run about $5 a pop here in the US. Most bearing houses can also find you compatible seals too.
 
The crank stuffers are one few good buys in OEM less than $20. I had em on my last OEM order and decideded to wait. Got too many projects ahead of one. I've got a 357 case and new OEM 359 P&C. Will definately buy stuffers unless I can pick up good 357 crank w/stuffers. AM cranks are still undecided. I bought one for 268 Husky (forgot I had two almost new ones) time will tell. Recommend good used OEM.

Shep
 
Yeah, I'd keep it. Have heard a few guys say a ported 359 was the fastest/strongest 60cc saw they've ever run.

Show us what ya got if you port it. :msp_smile:

I have both a 357xp and a 359 that need work, is it worth combining the 2 to make one hot saw? what would I have to do to make this work? The 357xp has a broken tab where the chain brake attaches on the flywheel side and the 359 has a wobbled out hole where the chain brake attaches on the clutch side, other than that their both in good working order.
 
HUSQVARNA 359 CHAINSAW CRANKSHAFT CRANK 537156801 | eBay

Firstly thanks for all the help, secondly I found this on e-bay and was wondering if it would fit? It's a bargain if it does!!

Cheers

It should fit, but I prefer used OEM. Did you email Chainsawr as I suggested? He had more 357/359 cranks than the one I bought.

I have both a 357xp and a 359 that need work, is it worth combining the 2 to make one hot saw? what would I have to do to make this work? The 357xp has a broken tab where the chain brake attaches on the flywheel side and the 359 has a wobbled out hole where the chain brake attaches on the clutch side, other than that their both in good working order.

It sounds like you are going to need to split both saws and combine the crankcases. Then install the 357 crank and the 359 jug.

Let me know if you want to sell both....I would be interested.

Neal
 
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