husky 357xp not running right

[outdoorsman0490]

I believe this saw is a 2008. It was my primary 20" saw till 2 years ago when I bought a 2260. Since then, it is a back up saw, which I basically run just enough to cycle the gas through. I went to run it last week and all of a sudden it didn't want to run right. Right now, it will start under choke, but when you take the choke off, it stalls out. When it is running, it doesn't sound like it used to when it ran correctly. It doesn't run long enough to try to adjust carb settings while it is running.

Does this sound more like a fuel issue or an air issue. On another saw I had, I had to replace intake boot due to an air leak, but I don't recall it acting this way. I had another 357xp which had that common carb problem, I sent the carb to treemonkey and he fixed it. Was there a specific way to determine if this is that common carb problem? Or does this sound more like just the carb needs to be cleaned?

As I mentioned before, the saw ran fine last time, put it on the shelf; took it back off the shelf and now it doesn't. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Westboastfaller]

It's starving...get a reputable carb kit for it.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Obviously it's not a freezing issue, because that will do the same thing.

Yes you can prime it and it will tell you its starving. I have lifted the lever a bit many times on 357/346and that will get it priming again for a while but, a qualify kit is the way to go

 

[chainsawman2011]

If u have a walbro carb on it u need the k24hda kit

 

[Westboastfaller]

IDK??? I got one that had parts in It from mexico and 5 Asian countries..lol
It didn't work.. Oregon makes then, the last one I got said Waldro. That worked well. Others could tell us both more on that.

 

[Big_Wood]

if that carb has the plastic blue diaphragm in it i would rebuild it even if it didn't need it. all those plastic diaphragms are garbage and it's sad companies even use them. the tan diaphragms seem to have a fiber in them and are much more flexible even when comparing 10 year old tan ones to brand new black/blue plastic ones. very likely to be your issue. IIRC the walbros on that series saw do have a tan diaphragm option.

 

[Westboastfaller]

if that carb has the plastic blue diaphragm in it i would rebuild it even if it didn't need it. all those plastic diaphragms are garbage and it's sad companies even use them. the tan diaphragms seem to have a fiber in them and are much more flexible even when comparing 10 year old tan ones to brand new black/blue plastic ones. very likely to be your issue. IIRC the walbros on that series saw do have a tan diaphragm option.

His is a 2008, I had a 2007 and That carb lasted back then. They just keep getting $hittyer

 

[Big_Wood]

His is a 2008, I had a 2007 and That carb lasted back then. They just keep getting $hittyer

they last if you use them everyday, as soon as left to sit that diaphragm stiff'ns up and don't pump fuel worth a ****. 07=08 should have the zama. it to has a stiff plastic diaphragm and the sad thing is he's gonna have to just live with that as they never came with the flexible tan ones.

 

[Westboastfaller]

No, 359 had zama. Don't know if they always did?

 

[Tor R]

The intake clamp is the first i would check, half of those 357 i got had issues there. There is one easy modd to fix that issue.
If it has walbro carburetor its worth to watch the movie to threemonkey.

 

[outdoorsman0490]

this saw has a zama carb

 

[outdoorsman0490]

says EL42

 

[Big_Wood]

No, 359 had zama. Don't know if they always did?

357 had the zama too. 359 i think always did yes. this saw likely just needs a good carb cleaning and rebuild. inspect fuel line and replace filter as well.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

If it has the Walbro kit, replace the kit with the k24-hda kit as suggested and like Treemonkey shpws in the video posted above.

I would also drill that 1/8" hole in the pump diaphragm cover. (I did both the kit and drilled the hole on mine)

Also, check to see if you have the intake with the steel clamp or plastic clamp. If you have the plastic clamp replace the intake with the current unit that uses a steel clamp.

And one more "also": If yours has the automatic compression release, it is highly recommended to ditch that unit and replace it with a manual compression release. Don't forget to cap the nipple on the bottom of the cylinder that the compression release hose connects to. Husqvarna does offer a cap and small clamp for this if you want to go that route. Or you could improvise a way to block that nipple.

I did all of the above to my 357 recently and it now runs like a watch. Also did a base gasket delete and muff mod while I was at it too!

 

[outdoorsman0490]

i received the carb kit for the saw and installed the new diaphrams and gaskets; also I changed the fuel filter. I went to start it this morning and it is acting the same way it did before I did the carb kit and fuel filter.
the saw starts under choke, runs under half choke, but stalls out immediately when choke is shut off.

what else do I need to do? do I need to change out the little metal parts that come in the carb kit? Is there something else, the fuel line or impulse line or something?
I am thinking about selling this saw off once I get this figured out, I think this was caused from sitting, I have too many other saws.

 

[Westboastfaller]

? Sometimes they get that deep internal varnish and what my machanic was doing was soading them in a coffee can with a lid on them.
It was a real heavy duty considerated brake cleaner which he said is hard to find on the self now. It sounds like its NLA here. He said the regular stuff dosen't do it. Anyway they came around with out carb kits. It's was at least a 24 hour soak. This $hit actually faded the carbs.

 

[Westboastfaller]

I'm using my on/off to stop me 372 now and if I run the tank to low and try choke it, the choke helps it run because its starving. did you clean it and pull your jets and everything? The fuel line can collapse if its weak, filter. If you are not in a cold environment then its not froozen.
get something to squirt gas in the throat and you should be able to push the choke in and regulate it that way. It will positively rule out anything else, for your own piece of mind.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

? Sometimes they get that deep internal varnish and what my machanic was doing was soading them in a coffee can with a lid on them.
It was a real heavy duty considerated brake cleaner which he said is hard to find on the self now. It sounds like its NLA here. He said the regular stuff dosen't do it. Anyway they came around with out carb kits. It's was at least a 24 hour soak. This $hit actually faded the carbs.

Autozone sells carb cleaner in the gallon can that works great for this. I use it all the time. Soak for about an hour or so then dip carb parts in hot water and blow off with compressed air.

 

[outdoorsman0490]

no, i did not clean out the carb itself and pull the needles and such. I kept looking for a vid to watch of someone else doing this, but couldn't find what I was looking for. I didn't want to do something to make it worse. Maybe it needs everything cleaned out and such. Any reccomendation on videos to watch before I do this. Thanks

 

[Westboastfaller]

No need for vids
Did you pull the needle, spring and lever when you rebuild it? same thing but unscrew the jets if it is a zama I think they have a washer on them or one???
Just make sure of that??? I try never to use zama. blow off, clean and try again.
make sure you didn't put thing backwards too.