sunfish
Fish Head
Replace Fuel line...
husky 357xp not running right
- Thread starter outdoorsman0490
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Along with the intake boot if it has the plastic clamp.
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beaglebriar
ArboristSite Operative
If/when you remove the jets just screw them in until they're lightly seated first. Count how many turns. Then you can set them back the same when you reassemble and it'll be real close to being in tune. Pull both covers off and remove everything. You can leave the little screen in but be careful not to blow it out if you use any form of compressed air. Spray everything out with brake cleaner or soak as Boaster suggested. I always try this approach first then follow up with a carb kit if necessary.
sunfish
Fish Head
He said it's an 08 model, should already have a metal clamp.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
thanks, will do. will update afterwards
One great recommendation I have is to never dip the little lever spring in carb cleaner! I tried that one time and never did find it again, guess it dissolved in that stuff..
When rebuilding a carb I always label which screw is the H and which is the L, I always label both in case one label gets lost. Be extra careful handling the inlet lever spring, once they slip out of your hand it takes forever to find it, if then..
the carbs I'm familiar with like these are different sizes.
I label them anyway because I rebuild dozens of carbs and just made a habit out of labeling them, I don't check the sizes, all get the same treatment except the 199 which usually gets a hole drilled in the top of it.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
took the carb back apart; took of the h and l and the throttle jets. Sprayed them with carb cleaner throughout the day yesterday. One more shot this morning and blew it out with air; you can see the carb cleaner and feel the air coming out where the gas would be.
Also, made sure the gaskets and diaphragms were installed correctly. The saw did the same thing.
Replaced the fuel line, the saw is doing the same thing. Starts under full choke, revs real high with half choke, pull trigger to shut choke off, and saw dies. no matter what I do with the carb adjustments, it does the same thing, just might do so at different rpms. I am kinda stumped now. What is next, the impulse line??
Also, made sure the gaskets and diaphragms were installed correctly. The saw did the same thing.
Replaced the fuel line, the saw is doing the same thing. Starts under full choke, revs real high with half choke, pull trigger to shut choke off, and saw dies. no matter what I do with the carb adjustments, it does the same thing, just might do so at different rpms. I am kinda stumped now. What is next, the impulse line??
sunfish
Fish Head
Yes, check impulse line, but I rarely have one go bad. It would be good if you had another carb to try.
If you haven't already, pull the muffler and look at the piston.
Check compression.
Check for air leak.
If you haven't already, pull the muffler and look at the piston.
Check compression.
Check for air leak.
That's sounds like a good idea for you. I trouble shoot my own saws or assist on line with saws I have experience with and kick my underwear in the corner.
Again comming from my life time friend about zama carbs. He has found because they don't have the ribs in the plate with the single centre screw, they were pron to Leaking air. Some cases I do believe he doubled the gasket. A small air leak will not do what it's doing but more likely to lean and In most cases act up (lean) when hot. Not saying there isn't a crack in the plate or elsewhere. I would do what I said and get a spray bottle with gas and start it and regulate it this way. Abviosly pushing the choke in as soon as you spray it.
Now you have ruled out most everything.
This brings it back to the carb, filter or gas line. If the plate is really bad you will see gas coming out.
Because I didn't have very good luck with carb kits I figured out that little trick of lifting the lever a bit as I had a bag full of carbs doing this. They were all walbro carbs though. If you have done all the steps, then I would put the old kit back on maybe lift it a hair more if you don't have another carb to try or buy a new Waldro.
Lift it to much it will puke gas. So there is another test you can do and that's pull the plate and keep the gas line on and see if you are getting flow by pushing down with your finger. Another trick to test that the needle is seating (unrelated to issue on hand) is set the saw in the sun or heat and take air filter off and see if it pools
End of story
I'm out
Now you have ruled out most everything.
This brings it back to the carb, filter or gas line. If the plate is really bad you will see gas coming out.
Because I didn't have very good luck with carb kits I figured out that little trick of lifting the lever a bit as I had a bag full of carbs doing this. They were all walbro carbs though. If you have done all the steps, then I would put the old kit back on maybe lift it a hair more if you don't have another carb to try or buy a new Waldro.
Lift it to much it will puke gas. So there is another test you can do and that's pull the plate and keep the gas line on and see if you are getting flow by pushing down with your finger. Another trick to test that the needle is seating (unrelated to issue on hand) is set the saw in the sun or heat and take air filter off and see if it pools
End of story
I'm out
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
Well the compression is still 170; the cylinder wall by muffler looks super clean when looking in from spark plug hole.
I have never tried any of those tests you are talking about; will try impulse line first, need to pick some up.
I have never tried any of those tests you are talking about; will try impulse line first, need to pick some up.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
This saw does have the metal clip on the intake boot; what's chances if this prob is an air leak, it's that boot; I had one to bad on a 04 357 in the past
There is a trouble shooting order and if you can get it running descent by manually feeding it then you will have eliminated all other than the few I said above. If you have a flow by manually pressing the lever down then its 100% the carb. This isn't that hard. You are chasing your tail for no reason
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
Swapped out the impulse line and the short one by the intake boot. Same result.
Just pulled the top of the carb off, and diaphragm, it is full of gas in there
Just pulled the top of the carb off, and diaphragm, it is full of gas in there
At the clamp or impulse with a small leak It will be a progressive lean as the saw gets hotter. I've had saws starve with the impulse completely off and then catch by pumping the trigger and rev fine but die again in the cut.
I pressure tested one of mine and it had a pin hole in the impulse and one crank seal. I fixed that and other seal started to leak when I tested again. A little air leak is not doing this. Did you pull the lever down and see the gas flow spray?
I would have made sure it sprayed then see if it would run on a prime. if you can get it to run on the prime then I wouldn't rule out something plugged the impulse system but I would think something is backwards or you lost something, there was a fault with the kit, or internal build up. I don't think the diagram is pressing the lever. That's all I got, I know I haven't had one beat me. and on top of it I have ran mine as low as - 43 c with out heat so I have had more to contend with than one in regular working conditions.
All the best
I pressure tested one of mine and it had a pin hole in the impulse and one crank seal. I fixed that and other seal started to leak when I tested again. A little air leak is not doing this. Did you pull the lever down and see the gas flow spray?
I would have made sure it sprayed then see if it would run on a prime. if you can get it to run on the prime then I wouldn't rule out something plugged the impulse system but I would think something is backwards or you lost something, there was a fault with the kit, or internal build up. I don't think the diagram is pressing the lever. That's all I got, I know I haven't had one beat me. and on top of it I have ran mine as low as - 43 c with out heat so I have had more to contend with than one in regular working conditions.
All the best
postrip
ArboristSite Operative
Exhaust blocked??
On that model Husqvarna the first thing I would check would be the intake clamp, some are plastic and should be replaced by a metal clamp, assuming the intake boot isn't cracked. It's also possible you have a leaky seal around the main bearings but you have to take stuff off the saw to check that like the flywheel and clutch..
