husky 435 bogs when I try to rev it

[lone wolf]

Sounds like it could be the coil!

 

[cookies]

sounds like the coil is not advancing the ignition timing, check the gap and maybe pop the flywheel for a broken keyway

 

[mountainlake]

The pic of the piston on the intake side shows some wear on the bottom skirt, if leaking too much it will push mix back through the carb rather than through the tranfers ' I had a 340 Husky in here that ran the same, wouldn't rev up, new piston and ring fixed it. Steve

 

[cookies]

Also worth mentioning you should double check the fuel hose routing to primer bulb compared to the service manual and that the primer bulb is in fact properly acting like a check valve. Also these have a weird intake boot with the impulse incorporated into it that is known to deform cutting off the pressure/vacuum to the carb under a load.
I got one of these saws with the same issues from one of the trash truck guys, I rebuilt the carb and replaced the primer and its two hoses only to find a bog like yours, the other guy apparently tried repairing it replacing broken tygon with used tygon scavenged off other trash and got the hoses backwards + filled the carb screen with tygon or some other plastic trash/dust.

 

[rupedoggy]

Yes remove the coil and clean everything real good. regap the coil on the flywheel and put in a new spart plug. If it still does it replace coil.

 

[lone wolf]

sounds like the coil is not advancing the ignition timing, check the gap and maybe pop the flywheel for a broken keyway

After he ripped it all down!

 

[GRT Ranch adventures]

After he ripped it all down!

lol ya the funny part is i had a coil in my cart but decided not to replace it because i was getting spark to idle. since im this far into it im going to go ahead and replace the piston. i checked the gap on the coil in my first round of trouble shooting and it was correct. as far as the intake boot it appears to be in fine shape and since i tore the whole saw down i got a pretty good look at it lol. looks like the coil is only about $30 for an OEM one so i guess ill just order one as well, then the whole saw will be be new so if that doesn't get it running im going to feed it through the chipper haha

 

[GRT Ranch adventures]

Also worth mentioning you should double check the fuel hose routing to primer bulb compared to the service manual and that the primer bulb is in fact properly acting like a check valve. Also these have a weird intake boot with the impulse incorporated into it that is known to deform cutting off the pressure/vacuum to the carb under a load.
I got one of these saws with the same issues from one of the trash truck guys, I rebuilt the carb and replaced the primer and its two hoses only to find a bog like yours, the other guy apparently tried repairing it replacing broken tygon with used tygon scavenged off other trash and got the hoses backwards + filled the carb screen with tygon or some other plastic trash/dust.

when i replaced the primer bulb i hooked up the tank side and pressed until fuel came out to make sure it was correct

 

[farmguywithasaw]

lol ya the funny part is i had a coil in my cart but decided not to replace it because i was getting spark to idle. since im this far into it im going to go ahead and replace the piston. i checked the gap on the coil in my first round of trouble shooting and it was correct. as far as the intake boot it appears to be in fine shape and since i tore the whole saw down i got a pretty good look at it lol. looks like the coil is only about $30 for an OEM one so i guess ill just order one as well, then the whole saw will be be new so if that doesn't get it running im going to feed it through the chipper haha

Make sure you do them crank seals while it’s apart. Cheap insurance seeing how you have much into it already. I had a similar issue with my 445. Had no spark when I got it. Dealer sold me the wrong coil and it ran like that. There is different versions of the 445 mine was the e ii.

 

[Old2stroke]

when i replaced the primer bulb i hooked up the tank side and pressed until fuel came out to make sure it was correct

You may just have the primer hooked up wrong. It does NOT inject fuel into the carb, it sucks fuel out of the carb and dumps it back into the tank and it MUST be connected to the right carb port. The fuel line from the tank should go to the carb fitting that is on the fuel pump end of the carb and the suction tube from the primer should go to the carb fitting that comes from the fuel chamber under the main metering diaphragm. When you depress the primer bulb you should feel fuel being squished through it and if you look in the tank you should see fuel coming out of the tube coming from the primer. If these things get incorrectly hooked up so that the fuel has to go through them to get to the carb, it will act as a serious restriction in the fuel delivery and show up as a bog when the engine needs more fuel than at it does at idle.

 

[thenne1713]

Bogging is generally a symptom of LEAN; can be adjustment, but can also be FUEL FILTER, CRACKED LINE, PINCHED LINE, CARB BOOT, etc.

 

[mountainlake]

That is not a lean bog, sounds more like it's flooding if you listen to the vid. Steve

 

[Northerner]

435 saws are notorious for bogging, usally i get away with opening up the carb needles abit. Somethings wrong with your gauge, i dont think your saw would idle at 35 psi, at under 100psi its hard to keep em running at all.

 

[thenne1713]

That is not a lean bog, sounds more like it's flooding if you listen to the vid. Steve

That sound, to me, more like loaded, as when you try to run with brake engaged? But he states chain spins freely? More than one has hit a shop with brake and cover melted? There is even a YT video on new saw where bartip sprocket was seizing after about 30-seconds and killing engine, and guy was at first blaming engine... I wud be rechecking chain, maybe even with bar/chain off, recheck engine?

 

[Old2stroke]

when i replaced the primer bulb i hooked up the tank side and pressed until fuel came out to make sure it was correct

This makes it sound like the primer is hooked up backwards. Eliminate any primer issues by pulling the primer line off the carb and plugging the carb fitting (short fuel line with a nail in the end)
That saw isn't bogging because it's too rich, you would have a cloud of smoke around you if it was.
If you suspect it's too lean, try partially closing the choke or pulsing it on and off and see if it makes any difference.
Went back a checked the video, sounds like ignition to me.

 

[mountainlake]

Did you get that new piston in yet. Steve

 

[sean donato]

Just some food for thought. These things were notorious for the glue used to seal them breaking down and leaking air. Clam shells would warp when over heated, and there were issues with the intake rubber breaking down near the cylinder. I think this specific issue was fixed years ago, I went through a few on mine then got a good one. Still have a spare here somewhere even though I don't have the same anymore.
Anyway, pressure and vac test would have eliminated any of that, but check flatness of all the sealing surfaces before you go back together. Great little saws when they run right for light work.

 

[mountainlake]

If it had been leaking air it would have been idling fast. Steve

 

[GRT Ranch adventures]

Did you get that new piston in yet. Steve

piston and ignition coil came in today but im waiting on new crank seals

 

[GRT Ranch adventures]

That sound, to me, more like loaded, as when you try to run with brake engaged? But he states chain spins freely? More than one has hit a shop with brake and cover melted? There is even a YT video on new saw where bartip sprocket was seizing after about 30-seconds and killing engine, and guy was at first blaming engine... I wud be rechecking chain, maybe even with bar/chain off, recheck engine?

running it with the clutch cover removed was one of the first things i tried when i got the saw. followed by running it with no air filter, and then trying to adjust the carb