husky 455 90-100psi cold

[Mr. Woodcock]

I am working on a newer 455 rancher and the comp. is way low 90-100 cold 120 warm just didnt know if the strato saws ran lower? and if the carb adj. the needles out fruther i.e. 1 1/2-2 turns out? this is my first strato saw to work on so i dont know if this is the norm for them any help? thanks

 

[Trigger Man]

Does'nt sound good strato or no strato thats quite low.

Can u pull the muff and look for scoring

 

[Mr. Woodcock]

forgot to put that in. NO scoring P&C look great. It still runs ok after i cleaned and adj. the carb. starts good if you use the primer( not used to that lol) idles good revs out and cuts as good as it can with a 20" bar and saftey chain in dead elm. just wondering about the comp. & how far out i had to turn the screws it get the carb tuned in. when i got it as soon as the chain hit wood it stoped and the saw bogged like you hit the brake. not that i would ...but it seemed as tho you could have just grabed the chain with your hand and it would have stopped. it was that bad.

 

[Trigger Man]

If its running and cutting good I would'nt worry,

 

[bitzer]

Factory rich settings are 2.5 turns out on the H and 1.5 turns on the L. 2 turns out on the H screw should be good, but check for four stroke when its warm. This saw has a very distinct burble. It makes the damn saw bounce in your hand. The comp on mine was 150 last time I checked. 120 sounds like time for a rebuild or at least a new ring.

 

[Mr. Woodcock]

thanks. this guy has taken it somewere before and the limiter caps are m.i.a. So i was kinda flying blind into this one.

 

[Trigger Man]

I wounder if you might have a leaky decomp valve?

 

[subhunter]

Are the 455 ranchers junk ?

I have the same problem straight out of the box. I made it a little leaner and it ran well till it git cold now today I coulnt get the thing to stay at any high amount of RPM. Just kept bogging itself down...

 

[Warroad50]

I have the same problem straight out of the box. I made it a little leaner and it ran well till it git cold now today I coulnt get the thing to stay at any high amount of RPM. Just kept bogging itself down...

Colder air will make it run leaner may have to adjust for winter and summer.

 

[J.W Younger]

forgot to put that in. NO scoring P&C look great. It still runs ok after i cleaned and adj. the carb. starts good if you use the primer( not used to that lol) idles good revs out and cuts as good as it can with a 20" bar and saftey chain in dead elm. just wondering about the comp. & how far out i had to turn the screws it get the carb tuned in. when i got it as soon as the chain hit wood it stoped and the saw bogged like you hit the brake. not that i would ...but it seemed as tho you could have just grabed the chain with your hand and it would have stopped. it was that bad.

I have a 257 husky with 135psi and no scoreing, and if you even point it at 12" or bigger oak it stops the chain.I have considered swaping out the 3/8 with .325 but I just don't feel like its worth the effort.

 

[mountainlake]

Normaly saws have more compression cold, a little less warm. Is your gauge good? Steve

 

[J.W Younger]

also check the shrader valve

A leaking or incorrect shrader valve on the inlet side or to much hose can give a false reading.T he inlet valve should have a really light spring.

 

[nmurph]

Normaly saws have more compression cold, a little less warm. Is your gauge good? Steve

:agree2:

 

[Mr. Woodcock]

My gauge has worked fine on my other saws& my truck so i dont think it was my gauge. Im pretty sure i have it lined out and the guy picked it up today so we'll see if he calls back. I had him come get it to try out. The only wood i have around right now is for me to burn not going to make a bunch of cookies out of this years firewood lol

 

[bitzer]

My gauge has worked fine on my other saws& my truck so i dont think it was my gauge. Im pretty sure i have it lined out and the guy picked it up today so we'll see if he calls back. I had him come get it to try out. The only wood i have around right now is for me to burn not going to make a bunch of cookies out of this years firewood lol

Comp testers go out quickly when messing with saws. Also drastically different temps and conditions will mean carb adjustments. I have a 455 and it is an emissions credit saw for Husky, meaning the saw is very epa friendly and Husky gets credits for building them. This saw has been strangled by the epa and it is also a strato. Its HP ratings are 3.4 compared to a classic style two stroke of the same ccs at about 4hp or slightly less. It can be modded to run with classic two strokes, but that requires a lot of work. What I am saying is, the 455 is a realiable and a useful saw, it is just not going to produce good power for its class/size/weight stock.

 

[spudulike]

Normaly saws have more compression cold, a little less warm. Is your gauge good? Steve

:agree2: as well, the fuel/oil mix seals the ring and piston better when it is thicker when cold and compression falls as the engine warms and the oil gets thinner. Its all about viscosity!

Spud

 

[Mr. Woodcock]

Just checked my 260 to make sure of my gauge and it is reading 160psi so I dont think its my gauge.

 

[mtngun]

Just checked my 260 to make sure of my gauge and it is reading 160psi so I dont think its my gauge.

Some saws will have a low compression ratio due to manufacturing tolerances.

Evan recently wrote up his Stihl 066 mods where he set minimum squish yet only had 130 psi. My 066BB is the same way. Yet other 066's will blow 160-175 psi. Tolerances are a fact of life.

Some will say that a saw won't even start if the compression is below 120 psi but I find that they start and just don't run strong.