Husky 55 no spark

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Musclenut

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I picked up a blown 55 rancher. I rebuilt the engine and replaced the flywheel with a used one. The key was sheared. The guy I bought it from thinks he broke the key taking the flywheel off.
I put the saw back togather and it has no spark what so ever.

I have cleaned the flywheel magnets, cleaned the coil, set the gap with a buisness card, made sure the area it bolts to is clean, and I've tried different plugs.

I find it hard to believe the coil is bad on a saw that the original problem was a blown top end. Could the new flywheel be bad in some way? Why won't this saw spark?
 
I would try the easiest first I guess,.. please take no offence but be sure the plug is a good one, check the switch position and that the ing wire to it is connected correctly.Then I guess I would check the plug wire connection to the coil.Is there only one slot in the flywheel for the key or is there 2 slots and are you in the right one? Next is to borrow a working coil to see if yours is toast. Just a few thoughts good luck I am sure some one else will chime in soon hopefully a husky guy !

P.S. why a diffrent flywheel ? and is it the correct type for a 55?
 
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The flywheel will only go on one way. I disconected the kill switch. I'm trying to find a coil to borrow.
 
The flywheel will only go on one way. I disconected the kill switch. I'm trying to find a coil to borrow.

is it the correct flywheel though for the saw? whats wrong with the other wheel? does the end of the crank look ok or is the key slot buggered up? I am not familar with this saw at all but does it have an ignition module on it between the coil and the on off switch someplace ?
 
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Ok like I said I am not versed in the quirks of this saw by any means,
So I googled husky 55 no spark and at your point in searching for issues it sounds like you have.....
A bad coil. They say to disconnect the stop switch wire from the coil thus removing the switch as a possible cause i guess. If you still have no fire to your plug and your plug is a good one, your coil gapped like you say it is, and your flywheel is correct and the key is not marked or distorted,.....You have a bad coil which seems to be a common 55 problem.Thats about all I can tell you. Do the search yourself and read other peoples troubles and see what you find. Good luck, Jeff
 
I put the same part # flywheel on this saw. It's the right one. The old flywheel has the key cast into the flywheel. The cast key was sheard off. That's why I replaced it. No damage to the crank was done.
 
The key sets the ignition timing for the saw. If the flywheel and coil are on the saw it should have spark no matter where the flywheel is mounted with respect to the crank.

If you don't have spark it is either the coil, plug, switch or flywheel magnets. The magnets are easy to check. Swap out the plug and see if you have spark. I had a bad plug once on a saw and figured it out after trying all kinds of other things. Now it is the first thing I go after when I don't have spark.

Check your plug wire and kill switch for any breaks in the insulation. If either is grounding you will not have spark. Be sure the plug connector is in contact with the wire. You already isolated the switch. If you don't have a decent multimeter this may be a good time to invest in one. You will be able to test switches and wires for continuity and shorts to ground. If you are running down an electrical problem using a multimeter is a must.

If you can get another coil to rule it out as the problem do it. Looks like you have a very reasonable offer in this thread.

Eventually you will find the problem. Don't change more than one thing at a time when diagnosing the problem. If you only change one thing at a time you will isolate the cause.

Bob
 
Check your plug wire...for any breaks in the insulation.

Bob

I like this one. Coils don't go bad very often, and since it sounds like it was running before... I tend to think the wire could be pulled out of the coil or is not getting a feed to the plug for some reason.

Again, if this isn't it, coils are not that much on the used market. As long as they have been tested. ;)
 
I've never had to check a coil out before but I did my best. I found there is continuity through the plug wire. That was good. The tab on the coil where the kill switch connects is grounded to the saw. I believe this means it's BAD. It's just like to kill switch is in the off postion. But the kill switch is'nt hooked up.
 
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