Husky 55 Will Not Start

[Justin+08]

Thanks in advance for any help, this is my first post on here. I used to be a climber and groundsman for a tree company years back so I know my way around a saw alright. I have an old Husky 55 Rancher that my father couldn't get started. Yesterday I got it started, it ran like a dog at full throttle and wouldn't even come close to idling. As soon as you let your finger off the throttle it died. I got it started, ran it full throttle for about two minutes thinking that I could try to get the carb adjusted and set the idle screw and fool with the jets; I assumed that was what it needed. After I shut it down there was smoke coming off the saw but I couldn't determine from where. I have since changed the plug, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the carb. Now I cannot get it started no matter what. I have spark, I have fuel into the carb. I have tried everything as far as letting it sit, choke no choke etc....I squirted both fuel and starter fluid into the head directly, into the filter etc and nothing, it doesn't even try. I would assume a compression issue or bad ring or something but it feels like the compression is more than enough. The smoke yesterday has to tell me something but I can't figure out what. Any help would be appreciated! It is a Husky 55 Rancher year 1998. Thanks again!

 

[jeeptj19992001]

check fuel lines first, clean carb, most likely full of crap and old fuel funked up. if you can not handle it, bring it in to be serviced.
most likely needs a carb kit.


and do not post this again, once is enough. sooner or later someone will answer your post....
kthanksbye.

 

[rmh3481]

No idle is the first sign of an air leak either through the seals, the case or the base gasket. Its tear down and fix right time.

 

[smilin possum]

I'm inclined to agree on the seals. Lots of time if it has everything to run and won't it may be a seal or air leak somewhere.
Good luck,
Joe

 

[Justin+08]

Sorry didn't mean to post twice....I am very familiar with message board etiquette. I belong to a message board for just about every product and topic in my life, but when I posted that message yesterday the system acted like it didn't work. It didn't show up on the board and my profile reflected no posts. This is probably because I registered and posted within two minutes of each other. Anyway so as far as an air leak goes, that means what, either a seal somewhere or the head is cracked I guess?? Would the smoke be indicative of this? Thanks for the reply's!

 

[jeeptj19992001]

Sorry didn't mean to post twice....I am very familiar with message board etiquette. I belong to a message board for just about every product and topic in my life, but when I posted that message yesterday the system acted like it didn't work. It didn't show up on the board and my profile reflected no posts. This is probably because I registered and posted within two minutes of each other. Anyway so as far as an air leak goes, that means what, either a seal somewhere or the head is cracked I guess?? Would the smoke be indicative of this? Thanks for the reply's!

thats cool
start with the basics and go from there, are you getting fuel into the cylinder? is the plug wet? how is the compression?

 

[barneyrb]

The infamous Husky 55 intake system has struck again. Keep running it and it will toast a piston. Got one on my bench right now that's getting a new piston because of the intake system.

Order a carb kit, fuel line, fuel filter, intake block, intake tube, and impulse line seal and that fix it right up if nothing else has been hurt.

 

[rob066]

You might want to pull the muffler off and look at the cylinder for scoring. Especially since you put fuel in the cylinder an it would not start. Like the others said sounds like air leak somewhere.

 

[Justin+08]

Okay so I pulled the muffler today and I can verify the piston and cylinder are in fine shape. Mirror smooth, the only thing I can see is that the ring looks like it is worn down to the point that it doesn't extend past the edge of the piston anymore if that makes sense. In other words the side of the piston is completely smooth. I have not used a compression tester yet but it feels like there is a ton of compression. I know my armed about fell off trying to start this thing. What about the basket that the cylinder sits on, would that be a culprit. Also I hope to find my or buy a new compression tester soon, what type of compression should I be looking for, 100-150?? Thanks again for the help. I still would like to know what that smoke and burning was that I mentioned in the first post.

 

[272super]

Compression should read 130-150 psi on up. It will not likely run below 110 or so. Carb screws should be set at 1-1/4 turns out to start with. Is it possible it is flooded? Pull plug and pull over with throttle wide open and see if any fuel blows out. Dry plug and put back in and try to start with throttle wide open. How did the carb diaphragms look? You likely should change them.

I'm guessing your compression is fine by what you say. If nothing works do an air leak/pressure test. You need to block the exhaust and intake to do this. Do a search if you need details on the test. An air leak will wreck havoc on your engine and cause all sorts of crazy symptoms. You might have an air leak based on what saw is doing. The 55 intake system is known for a less than stellar design and often leaks. As far as the smoke you mentioned,I doubt it means anything. It could be some oil/grease residue somewhere that heated up from the heat of case.

 

[HiOctane]

Check intake rubber and the pulse small rubber if not cut.On 55,first place to check when air leak is suspected.

 

[Justin+08]

Okay well last night I got ambitious and pulled the head off to take a look. The bore and piston are in great shape, but the ring was stuck. I bet that was enough to lose at least some compression and cause problems. It was jammed to one side so I fiddled with it and used a little light oil to get it loose again. I also went this morning and got a carb rebuild kit, a new head gasket, a new carb gasket, a new exhaust gasket. I am going to throw it back together later today or tomorrow and see what happens! I hope this fixes it!

 

[Justin+08]

View attachment 184394
I'm having a little difficulty with the carb rebuild. In the pic you can see that in the pkg they gave me for the rebuild kit it looks like it has a float, that triangle thing. Well I see the same thing in the carb but I cannot get it out. I worry that they guy that was fooling around with this thing before me removed the old float and got rid of it and now what I am seeing and trying to dig at is actually only the place where the float sits....the new one sits in there just fine but it seems like it sticks up too much and prevents the leverage action of the needle to move up and down. I kind of scored it up a little trying to get it out with no luck. I was hoping I could push it from underneath but there is no access. Is there any need to replace this thing, I don't think it is really a float but that is the only thing I can figure it would be called . Have I done serious damage by scoring it up slightly or can I just leave this old one. Also I cannot get that old screen out of the carb either but mine looks like it is in perfect shape anyway. Also I hope I attached the picture correctly, it was kind of confusing.

 

[HiOctane]

Its called a welch plug.It gives you access to drilled jets in the carb body.I would not touch it if you never removed one,because you can damage the carb trying to remove it the wrong way.The screen is easy to remove using something picjy to pull it off.

View attachment 184394
I'm having a little difficulty with the carb rebuild. In the pic you can see that in the pkg they gave me for the rebuild kit it looks like it has a float, that triangle thing. Well I see the same thing in the carb but I cannot get it out. I worry that they guy that was fooling around with this thing before me removed the old float and got rid of it and now what I am seeing and trying to dig at is actually only the place where the float sits....the new one sits in there just fine but it seems like it sticks up too much and prevents the leverage action of the needle to move up and down. I kind of scored it up a little trying to get it out with no luck. I was hoping I could push it from underneath but there is no access. Is there any need to replace this thing, I don't think it is really a float but that is the only thing I can figure it would be called . Have I done serious damage by scoring it up slightly or can I just leave this old one. Also I cannot get that old screen out of the carb either but mine looks like it is in perfect shape anyway. Also I hope I attached the picture correctly, it was kind of confusing.

 

[Justin+08]

Welch plug huh....new one to me! The smallest carb I have ever taken apart and rebuilt was dirt-bike 4-wheller size and I don't think they had that part but I can't remember. So you don't think I did too much damage from what you see in that pic? It is just a few score marks around the edges. I feel like a real idiot now, I knew in my mind I should just leave it alone but you know how that goes.....I had the new shiny one just sitting there in front of me taunting me!!

 

[Justin+08]

I'm to the point where I am going to throw this thing off the roof!! Carb rebuilt, new plug, new filter, new carb gasket, new head gasket, good compression, new exhaust gasket, new fuel filter and still no start, and it has spark and is getting fuel. The only thing that I have noticed is that after i crank on it for a while and then sit it down it leaks fuel out of the cap area despite the fact that I also replaced the fuel cap o-ring.....does this mean that somewhere or somehow it is pressurizing the fuel tank through some sort of air leak?? and that is what is causing my problem??

 

[HiOctane]

You dont talk about intake rubbers,did you check them for cuts or damaged ?If the spark got wet,it means gas is coming,so you can eliminate fuel as problem,i understand you could get too much fuel or not enough,but at least spark get wet,so she should run for few seconds.You are left with low compression (needs 125 ) or bad ignition .I guess your gas is fresh.If you have another Husky saw,like 254,262,51 you could swap the ignition for a test.For the gas seeping form cap,ya you can have the tank air vent blocked creating pressure buildup,but it wont stop the saw from starting at least when she is cold.

I'm to the point where I am going to throw this thing off the roof!! Carb rebuilt, new plug, new filter, new carb gasket, new head gasket, good compression, new exhaust gasket, new fuel filter and still no start, and it has spark and is getting fuel. The only thing that I have noticed is that after i crank on it for a while and then sit it down it leaks fuel out of the cap area despite the fact that I also replaced the fuel cap o-ring.....does this mean that somewhere or somehow it is pressurizing the fuel tank through some sort of air leak?? and that is what is causing my problem??

 

[Roanoker494]

When you rebuilt the carb did you replace the inlet needle lever? Those levers have to be "set" after they are replaced or the easiest way is to put the old lever back in, assuming you did not bend it when you took it out. You can also set the new one buy laying something very straight across the carb body, like a good screwdriver or the edge of a ruler, and adjusting the lever until in touches. Some carbs require the use of a special tool, available from the manufacturer, to set the lever correctly.

 

[Roofgunner]

I rebuilt my 55

Since I saw (pardon the pun) this post I figured I'd give some positive vibs. My 55 went lean under a full throttle run through a cherry tree. I bought the saw in 2001 and it wasn't used alot. It was too new just to junk.The front of the piston scored. I rebuilt it with Baily's jug/piston kit, installed new seals, made sure the carb manifold parts were all good and otherwise made damn sure it was tight. It will leak a little fuel if you fill it all the way as it finds it way out the vent. The fuel caps aren't quite as good as the 455's or the newer ones. But my saw now runs and idles better than when it was new and I did major cutting on a 100 black oak that was 40-45 inches across. So the saw saw got trial by fire, and passed all the tests.

 

[Justin+08]

Yeah from what I could tell the intake rubbers all looked good. As far as the inlet needle lever I never even though about adjusting that. I just read a quick thing online that said if you have the welch plug type you should adjust it so it is just a hair below the straightedge, do you think I should keep it a hair below or let it just touch like you suggested? What would be the best way to unclog the fuel tank vent? I have a diagram somewhere but I do not know off the top of my head where the vent is located. Thanks for the help guys!