Husky 55 Will Not Start

[Justin+08]

Trying to do this from my phone so hopefully it works. Here is the piston

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Spark

FUEL

COMPRESSION

If you have all three the saw should run.

Now, a two stroke will not run with liquid in the crankcase! Is your sparkplug getting wet? Check if it's flooded. Dry it out if it is. Then just put a little bit of mixed fuel into the sparkplug hole. If it's going to run, it'll fire and run for a bit.

I wonder if the coil is messing with you? It may be showing spark...but possibly at the wrong time.

OH ....welcome to AS!

Here's your pic of your pistion. Looks good. Were you able to find the reason for the ring being stuck in the groove?

 

[Captain Crunch]

NOT an EPA, but still, the 55 is a solid saw, so hang in there.

 

[272super]

272 - on these saws, there is no clamp on the intake boot. When I pressured mine, it expanded slightly and the air leaked.

Will a brand new boot hold 3 to 5 PSI?

I am thinking some type of clamp, but the impulse tube is so close nothing fits. In vacuum, this expansion is reversed and it should pull down around the ends. I still would like to see some type of clamp here.

If a new boot would not hold 5 psi I would use some adhesive/sealant. When I've tested the 55's I've had, I tested to 6 psi. I expect saws to hold 6-7 psi. I think in the 55 Husqvarna workshop manual they call for a lower psi spec. I question if that is a error because other Husqvarna saw workshop manuals call for around 7-8 psi. I don't see how a saw should expect to work right if the boot only holds to 3-4 psi. I hate that you can't put a clamp on there.

 

[272super]

Spark

FUEL

COMPRESSION

If you have all three the saw should run.

Now, a two stroke will not run with liquid in the crankcase! Is your sparkplug getting wet? Check if it's flooded. Dry it out if it is. Then just put a little bit of mixed fuel into the sparkplug hole. If it's going to run, it'll fire and run for a bit.

I wonder if the coil is messing with you? It may be showing spark...but possibly at the wrong time.

OH ....welcome to AS!

Here's your pic of your pistion. Looks good. Were you able to find the reason for the ring being stuck in the groove?

I agree to check the flywheel timing. I don't think the tank vent is going to stop it from starting if you keep the gas cap slightly open.

 

[Captain Crunch]

. I hate that you can't put a clamp on there.

Thanks. I am either going to figure out how to put a clamp on these or add a fat o-ring at each end to increase the squeeze between the end of the boot and the cylinder/intake block. I started to twist some stainless safety wire around it to make a clamp, but couldn't get it to stay straight, will try again on the next one. Have to be careful with this as the wire can easily cut the rubber if too tight.

 

[Justin+08]

I am going to try to slide by Harbor Freight later today to see how much a vac tester and compression tester sell for. How do I check the timing? You just mean the timing for spark correct?....to make sure it is sparking at TDC? I have some pics too that I am going to upload later on.

 

[Justin+08]

Stopped in harbor freight today. Apparently, at the one by me anyway they sell the real mighty vac. I didn't get it though. It was 40 bucks and I couldn't justify it. The knockout one was thirty and I couldn't justify that one either. I did get a new compression tester cause I couldn't find my old one, 13 bucks, right up my alley! I also bought one of those log splitters that works like a slide hammer. I saw them in my Northern Industrial catalog a while back. I am going to see if anyone on here has a thread on them, if not I am going to start one. Anyway I am going to run the compression test tomorrow. Now if I am not getting 130+psi should I start by changing the ring? I would imagine that the ring is the number one culprit correct? Mine looked like it was in fine shape but your talking microscopic differences meaning the difference here so I can't trust my eyes.

 

[Justin+08]

Verdict in. According to my thirteen dollar gauge the saw low generating a total of 70psi!!!!......I thought it felt like it had good compression but apparently not. Now do I automatically just replace the ring? I'm not going to put the money out for the vac/pressure tester so I guess that's the only place I can start right, with the ring??

 

[ncfarmboy]

Yes to the ring. Some say hone some say not. I use a flexhone on mine.
Shep

 

[HiOctane]

Check the ring gap,if more than .025,replace it.And if your piston is quite shiny and machining marks are almost gone everywhere,replace piston too.

Verdict in. According to my thirteen dollar gauge the saw low generating a total of 70psi!!!!......I thought it felt like it had good compression but apparently not. Now do I automatically just replace the ring? I'm not going to put the money out for the vac/pressure tester so I guess that's the only place I can start right, with the ring??

 

[Justin+08]

It's running!!!! I didn't start it for long though, I was in my den where I rebuilt it.but she turned over and she has 125psi now. Will it still run like a champ at 125? The piston and cylinder upon closer examination did have some scoring but it didnt look to serious. I know that microscopic imperfections make the difference with things like this but I am hoping I can get by like this. Maybe over the winter I will do some mode after doing some research on here. It's been a trying eight days but worth the satisfaction. Hopefully it actually runs tomorrow because like I said I only got her to turn over and then shut it right down.

 

[Justin+08]

Spoke too soon, she turns over every few pulls but only got her to idle twice. Neither time lasted more than thirty seconds. Keep fulling with the Carb but I haven't figured anything out yet.

 

[Axlerod74]

I always try to start simple. What are your carb needles set at? Typically, I run my 55 with the H screw at about 1 and 1/8 turn out and the same for the L screw. That is a good place to start and get things going then make fine adjustments. I know this is pretty basic stuff but I have seen more than one saw about to be thrown off the roof, that ran great after proper carb adjustment. 1/8 turn can make the difference between running good and poor.

 

[Justin+08]

Ya know I was wondering about this earlier in the thread when someone else mentioned where they though the needles should be set at. I still have the plastic stops on mine that limit it to about one complete turn. Do I need to remove these to properly adjust the carb? I saw another thread where they said to screw a sheetrock screw into them and then pull them off. I am worried I will screw something up if I do this(no pun intended). It seems like if they are on there from the factory and I have not done any mods than I should be able to leave them on, at least for now. Any thoughts?

 

[Captain Crunch]

Take them off, the EPA only cares that your saw not run rich, they do not care if it runs lean and burns up. It burns up, that's one less pollution device in the world.

Suggest Madsen's saw tuning video, very helpful.

 

[Justin+08]

Do you think that I need to have them off to get this thing to run correctly? If so is threading a screw in there and pulling literally the only thing I have to do, do those springs stay? Also I was looking at some other threads and I would assume that I would then need to cut slots in there for the screwdriver. I really dont want to fool with this unless I need to to get the saw to run. Thanks

 

[Captain Crunch]

Zama on my 55 has screwdriver slot under the plastic limiters.
As far taking them off, don't take my word for it (wait, you didn't anyway) watch the Madsen's video, a few times. If you can achieve the FULL range of tuning they show, from rich burble to lean scream, then hey, what do I know?

 

[Justin+08]

Wow, I thought my question to your answer was pretty respectful and reasonable. Before your last comment I would have taken anything you told me as sound advice. However when someone starts to tell me how highly they think of themselves with rhetorical questions like "what do I know" and phrases like "oh wait you didn't take my word for it" I have to start to question their credibility. I admit that I don't know a fraction of what most guys on here know about saws. I know my way around a toolbox but I do need some guidance. I just figured if I haven't modded the saw and it was running fine before with the limited, why do I need to remove them now and possibly break something. I'm not trying to be a #### so if you didn't mean your last post as a slap in the face and it was lite hearted than I apologize.

 

[Axlerod74]

I often prefer to have the limiters removed when fine tuning a saw however, in your case you do not necessarily need to remove them if you don't want. I figured they had already been removed and possibly could be way out of adjustment. If your not comfortable with it, don't do it. You should at least be able to get the saw running reasonably well within the parameters of those limiters assuming the carb is working properly.

What is the highest compression reading you have so far?