Husky vs Stihl vs Echo for Milling

[Ethobling]

You are looking at the clone saws with the right attitude. There's a chance you won't have to replace anything. I would suggest jotting down some of the tidbits of good information you get through this thread. There are several good tuning videos on YouTube. As far as doing a muffler mod, remember the saw will be on its side so be sure to direct exhaust outlets away from you. You may need to open up the oil holes on the bar so it will

Thank you.

Realistically, with your mind set, application, and goals, the G070 might be a good option. Especially since it allows you to upsize to a 66mm piston if you need/want.

What does that do for power/displacement? What kind of gains?

When your porting your essentially changing the airflow through the engine via changing the ports, cylinder height and at times ignition timing. There are great gains to doing this. There are also guys that are really good at it and longevity isn't an issue. Poor porting can decrease power output and at worst cause the engine to wear out pretty quickly. Biggest thing is it can be hard on the piston ring (s). I love ported saws and own quite a few, but my big saws I use I typically let alone out side a muffler mod. A "woods" port job typically give a good power bump and doest effect the long-term operation of the saw. Think of it like putting a cam and bumping the compression in you car engine. Bigger cam, higher compression more power, the more you make the chances of it lasting longer go down.
Now don't let me put you off if you really want it, but milling is about the hardest thing you can do with a saw. Best to get the biggest saw you can afford and run with it.

So a woods port job does what, exactly?

 

[fields_mj]

G070 is 105cc, 090 is 135cc. Both run at relatively low RPM compared to the 660 and 880 but their power band is at a lower RPM as well which gives them more torque. They won't generate as much chain speed, so they won't cut 24" cookies as fast, but their power band and torque make them pretty much unstoppable. This means you don't have to keep your RPM up to keep from sticking the chain.

As far as torque specs go, the thread below seems to have quite a bit of information.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/070-088-076-090-torque-comparisons.67201/
Keep in mind that I have no idea how any of this applies to milling. I'm just throwing the information out there.

 

[Sierra_rider]

Thank you.

What does that do for power/displacement? What kind of gains?

So a woods port job does what, exactly?

It's just pretty much just a milder form of porting that optimizes the peak power to be in a useable range for a work saw. I generally aim to move the peak power up in the rpm range compared to a stock saw, but not so much that it's unusable or is super "peaky."

I do my own saws, I start by turning the combustion chamber down to bump up compression, followed by decking the cylinder to correct for squish. This action effectively opens the intake port sooner(more duration) and opens the exhaust port later(less duration.)

Depending on where the numbers lie, I might adjust port heights from there with a flex-shaft grinder. I may or may not widen the ports. With a work saw, I try to stay conservative on port width...you don't want them so wide that it puts extra stress on the rings or possibly snags a ring. I usually open up the transfer ports as well. I also smooth/shape the ports...there isn't really a recipe for this, I just try to envision what shapes would flow the best.

Finally, I finish up with exhaust modifications and sometimes advance the timing. Honestly, just opening up the muffler is good enough for most people. There are some saws that come from the factory with horrible port timing numbers, but most saws are pretty close. On some saws, I also do aftermarket air filtration. I like Max-flows on any of the older, non-air injected Stihls(440-880.) Especially when milling, if you do a 880 copy, you'll find that the air filter will fill up fast.

 

[Ethobling]

Thanks for that info.

Question: Is this VP full synthetic good 2 stroke oil? JASO FD certified...

 

[cookies]

Thanks for that info.

Question: Is this VP full synthetic good 2 stroke oil? JASO FD certified...

yes its good oil

 

[Ethobling]

yes its good oil

How would y'all rate it compared to Amsoil Dominator or Echo Red?

 

[sean donato]

How would y'all rate it compared to Amsoil Dominator or Echo Red?

They are all good oils, get whichever you like and run with it.

 

[cookies]

How would y'all rate it compared to Amsoil Dominator or Echo Red?

Thats a dangerous question to ask on this forum in a thread you want to go smoothly and get the questions you ask to be seen and answered. I highly suggest searching for the "favorite oil" thread, last I saw was over 1,000 posts and still climbing.

 

[Ethobling]

Thats a dangerous question to ask on this forum in a thread you want to go smoothly and get the questions you ask to be seen and answered. I highly suggest searching for the "favorite oil" thread, last I saw was over 1,000 posts and still climbing.

Oh, wow. OK.

Thanks.

 

[ammoaddict]

How would y'all rate it compared to Amsoil Dominator or Echo Red?

Red armor is excellent and probably the most expensive. I was using saber but switched to dominator. Most 2 stroke oils contain fuel stabilizer but dominator being a motorcycle racing oil does not. So if you store it for any length of time you may want to add some. I really hope this doesn't turn into an oil thread.

 

[Karrl]

How would y'all rate it compared to Amsoil Dominator or Echo Red?

For me it would come down to price and availability. I’ve stocked up on Red Armor, Saber, and Redmax Fd oil, when I’ve found a good price. In my ported saw I’m going to stick to Amsoil saber or Red Armor out of superstition. The rest of my saws will get those or my Redmax Fd( Husky Fd) oil that I got cheapish. And my string trimmers get anything, including the dreaded Stihl ultra and SuperTech.

 

[Karrl]

Also I couldn’t help myself and I apologize if this thread gets oiled up.

 

[ammoaddict]

Also I couldn’t help myself and I apologize if this thread gets oiled up.

I understand. When you are addicted to chainsaws, it hard not to bring up the O word.

 

[sean donato]

It's a debated topic no matter what engine.

 

[Ethobling]

I didn't know 2 stroke oil could be so controversial, lol.

Thanks for the input.

Anyone have any info on bar oil? I imagine it isn't nearly as critical to find out which is the best, but it would still be good to know.

 

[ammoaddict]

I didn't know 2 stroke oil could be so controversial, lol.

Thanks for the input.

Anyone have any info on bar oil? I imagine it isn't nearly as critical to find out which is the best, but it would still be good to know.

I've seen heated discussions on bar oil too. I buy the cheapest I find.

 

[Karrl]

I run whatever is cheaper, thicker isn’t always better. Dry or frozen conditions it helps to have a thinner bar oil ime.

 

[Ethobling]

I've seen heated discussions on bar oil too. I buy the cheapest I find.

I suppose that makes sense, if you compare the cost of the oil compared to the cost of the bar. I bet I'll run several times the cost of the bar in bar oil before the bar even needs redressing.

 

[Ethobling]

I run whatever is cheaper, thicker isn’t always better. Dry or frozen conditions it helps to have a thinner bar oil ime.

But tackier is better, yes? An oil that stays on the bar longer (especially when having the full bar buried in wood) is better, I would imagine.

 

[Karrl]

But tackier is better, yes? An oil that stays on the bar longer (especially when having the full bar buried in wood) is better, I would imagine.

Generally but in dead dry ash or maple I find that tacky oil gets absorbed quicker and my bar dries out. You might not have the same experience, same with 2 stroke oil, so you have to find what works for you and your region.