Stu in Tokyo
ArboristSite Operative
I'm no stranger to 2-smoke engines, I'm no stranger to small engines, and while I've worked on a lot of them, most were not chainsaws, I have worked on some, but not nearly as many chainsaws as say motorcycles, or scooters etc.
The 185CD in the front with it's big brother 3120XP in the background, I got the 3120XP running just recently and it runs really well.
I have a 1976 Husqvarna 185CD saw, I use this mostly in my chainsaw mill, as it is a heavy old beast that has no chain brake. Mounted in the chainsaw mill, I'm not overly concerned about the lack of chain brake, and the old long stroke engine has lots of torque. Besides the weight and lack of chain brake, this saw can be a real workout to start when cold, no decomp valve, but after the first few pulls it always started right up and ran great. I run it at 25:1 with dino 2-smoke oil as per the circa 1976 owners manual, and I've put hours and hours of time on the saw in my chainsaw mill, it has run like a champ in the past. A few years ago I lent it to a friend of a friend, as a chainsaw mill, he milled up a bunch of stuff and when he gave me the saw back it was clean the chain was sharp and he bought me a case of beer. He said that he had ran it dry and emptied the gas out of it. I was very busy, and from the good condition that the saw was in, I just put it on the shelf and let it sit. Fast forward about 5 years, and it turns out he dumped the gas out of the saw, but he did not run it dry, there must have been gas in the fuel line and carb because the fuel line was in pieces, and the carb was all varnished up. I got the parts to rebuild the saw a while back and I finally got around to rebuilding the carb, replacing the fuel lines too, I also replaced the drive sprocket and a few other things, you can see that >> HERE <<
Well I cannot get this saw to run right, let me tell you what I do have for info and see if someone can point me in the right direction.
I've got fuel to the carb and spark to the spark plug.
When I rebuilt the carb I set the end of the little lever that attaches to the carb inlet needle flush with the body of the carb, as per owners manual. Also the owners manual says for the initial settings for the car adjustment screws H=1 turn out from closed and L= 1.2 turns out from closed. The T screw I have about 1-1/2 turns from touching the metal plate that it moves on the carb.
The darn thing will not run.
If I put a little starting fluid in it, it will run but on at full chat, it will not idle.
The gas is less than a week old, and it's high octane the premium stuff.
I'm going to take the carb apart again to make sure I did not miss anything.
The engine has good compression.
Like I said I don't use this saw much, I have it set aside as a big saw to use on the large chainsaw mill and in the case of a major earthquake here in Tokyo a gas chainsaw could be useful.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Cheers!
The 185CD in the front with it's big brother 3120XP in the background, I got the 3120XP running just recently and it runs really well.
I have a 1976 Husqvarna 185CD saw, I use this mostly in my chainsaw mill, as it is a heavy old beast that has no chain brake. Mounted in the chainsaw mill, I'm not overly concerned about the lack of chain brake, and the old long stroke engine has lots of torque. Besides the weight and lack of chain brake, this saw can be a real workout to start when cold, no decomp valve, but after the first few pulls it always started right up and ran great. I run it at 25:1 with dino 2-smoke oil as per the circa 1976 owners manual, and I've put hours and hours of time on the saw in my chainsaw mill, it has run like a champ in the past. A few years ago I lent it to a friend of a friend, as a chainsaw mill, he milled up a bunch of stuff and when he gave me the saw back it was clean the chain was sharp and he bought me a case of beer. He said that he had ran it dry and emptied the gas out of it. I was very busy, and from the good condition that the saw was in, I just put it on the shelf and let it sit. Fast forward about 5 years, and it turns out he dumped the gas out of the saw, but he did not run it dry, there must have been gas in the fuel line and carb because the fuel line was in pieces, and the carb was all varnished up. I got the parts to rebuild the saw a while back and I finally got around to rebuilding the carb, replacing the fuel lines too, I also replaced the drive sprocket and a few other things, you can see that >> HERE <<
Well I cannot get this saw to run right, let me tell you what I do have for info and see if someone can point me in the right direction.
I've got fuel to the carb and spark to the spark plug.
When I rebuilt the carb I set the end of the little lever that attaches to the carb inlet needle flush with the body of the carb, as per owners manual. Also the owners manual says for the initial settings for the car adjustment screws H=1 turn out from closed and L= 1.2 turns out from closed. The T screw I have about 1-1/2 turns from touching the metal plate that it moves on the carb.
The darn thing will not run.
If I put a little starting fluid in it, it will run but on at full chat, it will not idle.
The gas is less than a week old, and it's high octane the premium stuff.
I'm going to take the carb apart again to make sure I did not miss anything.
The engine has good compression.
Like I said I don't use this saw much, I have it set aside as a big saw to use on the large chainsaw mill and in the case of a major earthquake here in Tokyo a gas chainsaw could be useful.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
Cheers!
now, does it sound like it's running rich or lean? my money's on the metering lever not being properly adjusted or hooked to the diaphragm causing it to flood out at idle or an inproperly tuned low speed. it really helps to hear the saw run when diagnosing these problems but i gave you an idea anyways.
