Husqvarna 2100 - Many questions!

[calebng15]

Okay, I have Husky 2100. Was locked up when I got it. I toar it down last night, and it looks like it was dropping in a lake, and never ran since. It was all corroded, as you can see in the first pic.
Question 1) How should I clean this up?

Question 2) Do you thinks the cylinder and piston are savable? I know it is going to need new rings.

Question 3)The magnet was broken on the flywheel. Looks like somebody tried to pry it off. Is this usable?



Question 4)Is this saw worth fixing? I have $200 in it. I know I can get that much for the good parts on ebay. Is it even worth bothering with? It will still need fuel line oil line, clutch cover, crankshaft bearings and seals, and needle bearing before I even can get it started.

After all of this, Ill still need a bar. So I'm wandering if is even worth it?

This is off of another saw. What would you use to seal this metal gas tank?

 

[calebng15]

It was leaking on this saw, another Husky 2100.
Thanks in advance for all of you responses. I'm looking forward to all your reply's!!

 

[Jim Timber]

Gentle bead blasting might surprise you.

I wouldn't run that flywheel.

 

[LegDeLimber]

I'm in agreement on not running the flywheel.

I'd be very surprised if the big end of the rod and the crank pin aren't rust pitted in little lines
along the rollers, IF not worse.
That wrist pin bearing looks like there'll be some scattered pitting in the rod
And the pin.
Any visible lines or pits in the bearing surfaces will cause eventual failure.

By the time you clean up that piston, it may be undersized in places, if not all around.
And If You don' get it absolutely shined up it will be like running a hone stone up and down the cylinder.
You see that crust is aluminum oxide. And that's what we make some grinding wheels out of.
The rust on all of the steel that is abrasive also. If the rod end has flaked and lost thickness that would cause weakness.
of course you should clean out the oxide from the magnesium too and recoat the inner cases.

 

[rmh3481]

Red Koat for the tanks. Not cheap but works well.
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

 

[gulity1]

If u part it I'll take the brake/clutch cover. Can it be rebuilt, simply yes, its gonna be really damn expensive. Simple parts are expensive, others are made out of unobtainuim and really expensive, example it took 3 months to get a set of orings to rebuild the manual oiler 3 of the orings had to be imported from Italy. I had more in shipping then parts! Good luck I would either part it out or sell the lot put the cash towards a complete runner or a better saw, if not hope you got a pile O'cash

 

[gulity1]

In response to how to clean the case etc. I'd split it wash it rinse and oil it down good, then start a fresh rebuild from the ground up, Before you tear it down I would get a basic parts list going and start searching, best of luck

 

[calebng15]

I think I'll just part it out. There are a few things I want to keep for the one I already have. Thanks for all your replies!

If u part it I'll take the brake/clutch cover

I sent you a pm.

 

[Chris_In_VT]

I think I'll just part it out. There are a few things I want to keep for the one I already have. Thanks for all your replies!


I sent you a pm.

That's probably what I would do too, or cut my losses and sell as a project.
I want a 2100, but if it's gonna cost too much to get it going, it's not worth it, to me.
I'd be suspect of that crank.

 

[calebng15]

One thing that I would still like to know, is, what to seal that tank with! You can see somebody already tried. It wasn't me!

 

[gulity1]

pretty damn amazing first time I have ever seen someone get the tanks in 2 pieces with out damage usally its because its been run, over tree fell on it etc. I don't know if the tank can be resealed completely or correctly again?? I not sure but I suspect there are a few on here that have done it and I am sure that they will be along shortly.

 

[calebng15]

The tank does have one chip in it near the handle. I hoping it will be small enough that the sealer will take care of it. It was in it from the first guy. I got most of the sealer off of the tongue and groove.

 

[blsnelling]

Not much left of that saw. You'll have to split the case and replace the crank and all bearings. Check the case for holes through the pitting.

 

[banditt007]

i'm going to say in all likely hood the connecting rod bearings on the crank are going to be pitted/shot, with that being said the crank is trash. For sure i wouldn't spend another dime on it and do what you need to do to get your $200. Very unfortunate, what do you guys think caused this much oxidation?