Husqvarna 262xp not starting

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BonScott46

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jul 13, 2016
Messages
407
Reaction score
359
Location
Sweden
So I started a thread many moons ago about this saw. Got it with a scored piston, tore it down and put in new seals, meteor piston, spark plug, fuel line, fuel filter and new gaskets. I have not vac/pressure tested it, I know I know... Figured I would try starting it without rebuilding the carb. It started after quite a few pulls, I blipped it down to idle and it ran nice there for about 15 seconds then cut out/died and did not start again. I have since rebuilt the carb with no better luck. Fuel is getting all the way to the cylinder and it has spark...any ideas?
 
Tank not venting is a possibility. Does the engine race before it dies, indicating that it is running lean? Try turning out your low carb screw a little as it may not be getting enough fuel (it is getting some and you are essentially building up enough fuel when cranking over for it to fire but the carb is not metering enough fuel to keep it running).
 
Idled high when it started then came right down when I hit the throttle. Screws were one turn out so I will try turning the low out some more tommorow morning. It only started the one time and it seemed to be idleing nicely chain was moving only slightly so I was going to fatten the low side a little but did not get a chance.
 
Check flywheel key. My money is that it sheared. Been there, when the flywheel is slinstalled the crank and flywheel must be oil free .
 
Key seems to be fine. Adjusted the low out 1 1/4 turns and gave it a go. No dice. Then I pointed the front of the saw down and fuel dumped out of the muffler. Did a google search and seems the most likely reason could be the tank vent? Anybody else have any ideas? Will be ordering a new one. Unfortunately it will take a week and a half to get here.
 
Is that carb a hda 120? The metering lever should be level with the cover base.
If it's dumping raw fuel in the muffler that's your problem.
Easy way to tell if you have no tank vent is to pull a vacuum on the fuel line from the tank with the fuel cap on.
If it leaks down you have a vent.
 
Not so sure re metering lever or tank vent. I think it runs fast at idle because it is lean. When you hit the throttle it moves to the high jet and seems to be running well but when you come off the throttle you go back to very lean and it starves if fuel. It's an easy theory to test. Just back off the l screw half a turn. If no good check your metering lever.
 
Is that carb a hda 120? The metering lever should be level with the cover base.
If it's dumping raw fuel in the muffler that's your problem.
Easy way to tell if you have no tank vent is to pull a vacuum on the fuel line from the tank with the fuel cap on.
If it leaks down you have a vent.
Google pic. They sell that piece for adjusting the metering leveler.
 
@Griffdog1 It started like it was on high idle the one and only time it started and then I blipped the throttle and it came down to an even idle around 3000 by the sound of it. It did not move from there for the next 10-15 seconds until it died.
@mgr carb is a HDA-87, do you have a part number on the metering level tool? I will have to look closer at the carb. I pulled the lever, needle, spring, screen and h and l screws and then soaked carb body and everything in Aspen before blowing it out. I replaced the needle and screen along with the gaskets. The needle I pulled out has some red coating at the tip. Is this normal? The kit came with a rubber and a paper gasket for the metering side. The IPL shows one gasket so I put in the rubber one since that was what was in there when I took it apart. First time rebuilding a carb and first time rebuilding a saw so I was a little unsure. I have a chinese pressure tester that is supposed to do vacuum as well I just have to figure out how considering it did not come with instructions.
 
The number of saws I have rebuilt is probably in the thousands and I have never in my life used a metering level tool just level it and it won't cause you any problems. Take out the silver caps under the metering diaphragm, take out the screws and blow out the carb. Put everything back together, set the saw at 1,5l 1h if it doesn't run then it's not the carb, it is probably getting false air somewhere. Woul be easier to help you if you put up a video. You could also be getting similar symptomes if you used a low quality fuel filter, it can let small debree inside the jets and cause you trouble.
 
Also the tip on the needle indicates that the needle is worn, when new it should be gray. Kind of like a control color if you will.
 
Wet plug and spark means either it doesn't really have spark....timing is messed up...or its flooded.

Pull plug.....turn saw upside down and pull starter to turn engine over. See how much fuel comes out.

Put plug back on

Clamp fuel line to carb...

Then....put some carb cleaner down throat and see if you get a pop
 
@Mattyo Brand new piston and ring, tons of compression, wet plug, no pop and it has spark.

I think the plugs are called Aluminum Expansion Plugs in english. There is a small net under there that can get clogged, but my bad I thought you were getting a high idle, lean like condition. Like matyo said, clamp the fuel line or just remove it put a squirt of gas into the spark plug hole, put your foot into the loop so you have full throttle, the saw HAS to pop if it has spark and compression. Try atleast 5-10 pulls. Also take the starter off and check if by any chance you have pinched the black cabel from the ignition to the stop switch that could be causing you to sometimes get spark and sometimes not.,
 
Back
Top