Husqvarna 262xp questions

[theoctagon]

A few months back i bought a 262 off ebay. Nice little saw but it seems far too weak for what people are saying about them. I havent ran it much for fear of wrecking something. I tach'd the saw and it is running about 11,000 which is obviously too low. Problem is you cant get anymore out of it. I checked compression and its at about 110 pounds after 15 pulls. I havent made covers to do a leakdown test yet. I am on the fence on whether to just tear it completely down and totally go through it or just leakdown test and probably throw in a meteor piston and maybe clean up a little in the cylinder intake and exhaust ports. Looks like this muffler could use a little help as well. Maybe im overlooking something too who knows, thats why i ask the experts. The saw seems to rev quick and starts easy. Could a leaky compression release cause these same symptoms?

 

[Longwood]

110 psi is very low. I would go into a 262 when compression went below 140psi.
A healthy stock 262 will have 150psi to 155psi and will 4 stroke at 14,000 rpms. I have three of them and this has been my experince. It's possible the compression release could do what you described. From your post it looks like you'll aleast need a piston and ring.

I ported one of my 262's and it 4 stokes at 15,500rpms.
You can search my old posts for info and a video.
Good luck and let us know what you do.

 

[watsonr]

leaky compression release could. 110 is pretty low. Looked at the piston yet for scoring? Is it tuned properly?

 

[theoctagon]

110 psi is very low. I would go into a 262 when compression went below 140psi.
A healthy stock 262 will have 150psi to 155psi and will 4 stroke at 14,000 rpms. I have three of them and this has been my experince. It's possible the compression release could do what you described. From your post it looks like you'll aleast need a piston and ring.

I ported one of my 262's and it 4 stokes at 15,500rpms.
You can search my old posts for info and a video.
Good luck and let us know what you do.

Thats what ive been hearing and why i was quick to buy one. I am going to order a piston and ring for sure. Probably a meteor from Baileys. I will also get a new compression release when i do.

 

[theoctagon]

leaky compression release could. 110 is pretty low. Looked at the piston yet for scoring? Is it tuned properly?

I have not pulled the exhaust yet but i did look inside the spark plug hole. Cylinder has vertical lines but they look very very light. I will pull the exhaust and intake as soon as i can to get a better look at everything. Do you know what initial carb settings are supposed to be? I have the high only 1/2 turn out and its 4 stroking at 11000

 

[HiOctane]

You probably have a governor installed on your carb.Open the main diap side and look if you see a brass jet and only one welch plug.If so,then can run your saw with the H almost closed and she will still run.You can block the governor by "tinning" the hole with a slodering gun.After that,you will have to run your saw around 2 turns out to reach four stroking.

 

[theoctagon]

You probably have a governor installed on your carb.Open the main diap side and look if you see a brass jet and only one welch plug.If so,then can run your saw with the H almost closed and she will still run.You can block the governor by "tinning" the hole with a slodering gun.After that,you will have to run your saw around 2 turns out to reach four stroking.

I was unaware these came with governor installed carbs. Is there a carb better suited for this machine or does "tinning" the hole shut make it as good as any carb?

 

[HiOctane]

Just tin it,no problem.Gonna run like a brand new saw with a new carb.Remove the H needle BEFORE pushing out the jet for tinning it.Use a punch or something else to push out.Once tinned,reinstall it like it was before,flush with the body.Open the H at least 2 turns out to adjust,could be a bit more after final adjust.Dont worry about rpm ,just use the "four stroking" method to adjust to avoid problems.Clean your filter before adjusting.

I was unaware these came with governor installed carbs. Is there a carb better suited for this machine or does "tinning" the hole shut make it as good as any carb?

 

[theoctagon]

Just tin it,no problem.Gonna run like a brand new saw with a new carb.Remove the H needle BEFORE pushing out the jet for tinning it.Use a punch or something else to push out.Once tinned,reinstall it like it was before,flush with the body.Open the H at least 2 turns out to adjust,could be a bit more after final adjust.Dont worry about rpm ,just use the "four stroking" method to adjust to avoid problems.Clean your filter before adjusting.

THank you for the help i will do that when i get back to the saw. So did other people do this same trick to theirs or why do they run 14,000 and i run 11,000????

 

[HiOctane]

You are getting only 11k because of the jet.Once blocked,she is gonna turn crazy rpm .But like i said,rpm reading is not the main thing.To keep your saw in "good health",always use the four stroking tuning.Run your saw, after warming ,unloaded and just keep it on the BORDER of falling "two stroking". Make a cut and if she seems a bit lean,open up a bit the H,always to be on safe side.I think RPM can give false impression of safety compared to running it with a bit of four stroking unloaded.

THank you for the help i will do that when i get back to the saw. So did other people do this same trick to theirs or why do they run 14,000 and i run 11,000????

 

[theoctagon]

You are getting only 11k because of the jet.Once blocked,she is gonna turn crazy rpm .But like i said,rpm reading is not the main thing.To keep your saw in "good health",always use the four stroking tuning.Run your saw, after warming ,unloaded and just keep it on the BORDER of falling "two stroking". Make a cut and if she seems a bit lean,open up a bit the H,always to be on safe side.I think RPM can give false impression of safety compared to running it with a bit of four stroking unloaded.

Thanks again. I will be at minimum putting a new piston in it before i start turnin some big r's. dont want to hurt it cuz of foolishness

 

[tree monkey]

You probably have a governor installed on your carb.Open the main diap side and look if you see a brass jet and only one welch plug.If so,then can run your saw with the H almost closed and she will still run.You can block the governor by "tinning" the hole with a slodering gun.After that,you will have to run your saw around 2 turns out to reach four stroking.

your joking right?
thats the main jet not a governor

 

[theoctagon]

your joking right?
thats the main jet not a governor

Hmmm ok now im confused. are they govern'd carbs or no? Is there another brass jet along with the main jet? I havent looked at the carb yet to see what he was referring to.

 

[SkippyKtm]

You probably have a governor installed on your carb.Open the main diap side and look if you see a brass jet and only one welch plug.If so,then can run your saw with the H almost closed and she will still run.You can block the governor by "tinning" the hole with a slodering gun.After that,you will have to run your saw around 2 turns out to reach four stroking.

Just tin it,no problem.Gonna run like a brand new saw with a new carb.Remove the H needle BEFORE pushing out the jet for tinning it.Use a punch or something else to push out.Once tinned,reinstall it like it was before,flush with the body.Open the H at least 2 turns out to adjust,could be a bit more after final adjust.Dont worry about rpm ,just use the "four stroking" method to adjust to avoid problems.Clean your filter before adjusting.

Hmmm ok now im confused. are they govern'd carbs or no? Is there another brass jet along with the main jet? I havent looked at the carb yet to see what he was referring to.

I have a few 262's ranging from the years of 1990 to 1996, and none of them have governors or need to be "tinned", the carbs are fine the way they are.
Your saw is running poorly because of low compression, and you may have more issues than that but I'd get that taken care of first, you need to find out how/why the piston got scored like that. Was it straight gassed, vacuum leak, plugged impulse passageway, bad fuel line, etc?.
I'm surprised it will even run a 110psi. A Healthy 262 can run as high as 170psi and one that is marginal would be at 135-140 psi or so. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

 

[theoctagon]

I have a few 262's ranging from the years of 1990 to 1996, and none of them have governors or need to be "tinned", the carbs are fine the way they are.
Your saw is running poorly because of low compression, and you may have more issues than that but I'd get that taken care of first, you need to find out how/why the piston got scored like that. Was it straight gassed, vacuum leak, plugged impulse passageway, bad fuel line, etc?.
I'm surprised it will even run a 110psi. A Healthy 262 can run as high as 170psi and one that is marginal would be at 135-140 psi or so. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

once i get the the plate made for the intake i can do a leakdown test. I am half tempted to just tear it completely down and totally go through it. Ive never had one completely apart before so the experience on my own saw would be worth it in itself.

 

[almondgt]

You probably have a governor installed on your carb.Open the main diap side and look if you see a brass jet and only one welch plug.If so,then can run your saw with the H almost closed and she will still run.You can block the governor by "tinning" the hole with a slodering gun.After that,you will have to run your saw around 2 turns out to reach four stroking.

Can you elaborate or provide pictures of the area you have tinned on your 262 carbs? What is the advantage behind the tinnning of that hole in the carb? Pretty sure I have read all the 262 threads on this site and your suggestion sounds quite radical. I don't say it is wrong or right, just need to know what is up with that procedure.

 

[HiOctane]

Sorry to mislead you,it was done on 254 instead of 262.I didnt read the first post about compression,i read the one talking about too low rpm and answered on this.Your low compression is surely your problem,i didnt read the first time,sorry.

 

[theoctagon]

Sorry to mislead you,it was done on 254 instead of 262.I didnt read the first post about compression,i read the one talking about too low rpm and answered on this.Your low compression is surely your problem,i didnt read the first time,sorry.

No problem it happens to us all! I am looking up parts for the saw right now. Im thinking a full rebuild is in order just cuz its such a bad ass saw!

 

[husqvarna addict]

Hello I know this an old thread but have a question about the 262. If I used a Husqvarna 61 piston in a 262 would it work? I compared the two pistons and noticed the 61 piston is a tiny bit taller then the 262 piston. Has anyone else tried using a 61 piston in a 262?

 

[Big Block]

Start a new thread you will have better luck. From what I know the 262 and 61 pistons are totally different. The 262 is a bigger displacement engine.