Husqvarna 262XP

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Brian Thacker

Brian Thacker

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I traded around and wound up with a Husqvarna 262XP. Don't know much about the saw. It is in good condition. Can anyone tell me the good and bad about this saw? I took it out cutting a couple weeks ago and it seamed to be a good saw except when I was cutting the chain adjustment screw vibrated out and had to get a new one. Luckily I had my old Pro Mac 10-10 to fall back on. I don't see anything to keep it from doing that again. Any suggestions on what went wrong? I looked at the IPL to see if there was any locking device for the screw but did not see anything.

Brian
 
I rebuilt my friends 261EPA now upgraded to 262XP . Seems to be a good very peppy saw from my experience. One sellng feature to keep it (for him) was that it is a small husky bar profile like his (2) 55 ranchers. Same exact bars and chains now for all 3 of his saws.

He wrapped it force-ably around an object and busted the clutch cover... not cheap. Now I'm gonna learn magnesium welding LOL
His 55 oils the bar as long as the engine runs, but the 262 only oils if the clutch turns. 262 seems a good saw.
coil/EI not expensive.
 
You can use an O-Ring in place of a rubber thingy that keeps that stupid chain tensioner from falling out. OR, you can adapt it with a metal e-clip and never have to worry about it again :)

check out my youtube channel for full teardown and rebuild of the 262.

If it hasn't had its crank seals and rubber bits replaced, its time.
 
I have been into restoring McCulloch lately, Thanks Ron Woods...LOL But I have gotten used to replacing crank seals on all saws I get with any age on them. I burnt a PM800 because of a crank case leak. I have on order a carb kit, fuel line, fuel filter and crank seals. Figured it would be time for them. When I was sawing with it, it kept quitting when I would rev it up in a cut and let off the throttle. I figured that was either a fuel filter, dirty carb or crank seals. Did not diagnose it any further just going to replace or rebuild everything and I will not have to worry about it again for a while. Just peace of mind.
Thanks everyone for the input. Anyone else have a commit please chime in.
Brian
 
I was removing the carb to kit it and the baffle between the cylinder and the carb just fell apart so I ordered one of those also. The compression seams alright but not real good. I have not ran a compression test on it but it feels lower than my Mac 10-10s. I am thinking this winter I will put a new cylinder and piston in it and refashion it up. At that point it should be good to go for a long time. What little I did saw with it, it felt good. seamed to cut well.

Brian
 
Very happy with it, just seamed a little low on compression compared to the 10-10 that was setting beside it at the time. Just pulling the pull start on both and the Husky seamed eaiser to pull than the Mac. And yes the DSP was not pushed in. I will have to look and see which carb it has. I have not even ran a compression test on it. It maybe in spec. I am just saying if it is low I will rebuild it come winter until then it seams to cut well. Just wanted to know what everyone thought about the saw if it was a good one or not.

Brian
 
Very good saw. Compression should be bout 150. Maybe lower if soneo e used a 261 piston in it. Then be happy if its got 125.
 
It has the HDA 120 Carb. Not sure what that means but on other post I have been reading it had 3 carbs and the 8X carb suppose to be the better. It also has the plastic gear on the oil pump. I took the cylinder off and the piston has a score on it. The rings are a little loose but not bad. I think I will go ahead and replace the piston and ring while I have it open. May as well do everything while I am in there.

Brian
 
Brian Thacker said:
It has the HDA 120 Carb. Not sure what that means but on other post I have been reading it had 3 carbs and the 8X carb suppose to be the better. It also has the plastic gear on the oil pump. I took the cylinder off and the piston has a score on it. The rings are a little loose but not bad. I think I will go ahead and replace the piston and ring while I have it open. May as well do everything while I am in there.

Brian
Click to expand...
Only one ring.

The plastic gear means its clutch driven oil pump. Bronze is crank driven and oils whenever saw is running. The back of the clutch drum needs to match the gear.

Great saw. They usually need some type of homemade shim gasket to set the squish to .020. They pick up compression easily with a small band cut.

Three carbs, 120/144/87. The 87 is the coveted and rare one. Totally unnecessary unless the saw has been ported. The smaller 120/144 with have slightly better throttle response than the bigger 87 if the saw is stock.
 
drf255 said:
SNIP
Three carbs, 120/144/87. The 87 is the coveted and rare one. Totally unnecessary unless the saw has been ported.
Click to expand...

It's been a while but IIRC:
Line by line comparison of the walbro 120/144 parts (IIRC) shows mainly that the 144 has the EPA/difficult to adjust needles, and the other is normal screwdriver adjust needles. The plastic adjust guides also differs.
I tried to buy the adjustable style...NLA. A dremel disc cutter made an adjust slot and all was well.
 

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