husqvarna 266 SE won't fire

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husky 266 SE. received as basket case. assembled enough to see if engine would fire. Sparks at plug and priming with fuel can have mist blow out plug hole. but with plug in it won't even pop a teeny bit with vigorous cranking.

I feared it may have slipped out of time, but I can't imagine that--it doesn't look like anyone has had the flywheel off, and the magnets meet the magneto with the piston right up at TDC. so, if it is out of time, it isn't out by much.

I tried big primes, small primes, primes directly into plug hole, everything. I cranked her dry and tried different plugs and not even a pop. but the plug sparks and the mist blows out the hole.

What is minimum pressure when cranking to get it to start? is low pressure a possibility here? it feels "normal" when cranking. I have not pressure tested yet, but I will next, before giving up and putting it in semi-permanent storage.

Also, is the clutch left-hand thread? I assume it is. Is the flywheel bolt RHT? I assume it is. but I have not tried to pop either off yet.

She sparks when pulled and puffs fuel mist when pulled. aside from ignition timing and compression pressure, is there anything else that would keep it from firing. Oh yeah, I tried various throttle and choke settings. I cranked plenty with choke open and throttle WOT. I set idle nice and high and cranked both with and without choke. fuel line is bad and tank is dry, but engine should at least fire with the primes i put in .

I mean DEAD--not even a slight hint of firing or kickback. I have VAST 2-stroke-cycle experience and am really fishing for ideas before giving up.

Finally (sorry for the long post) if i can fix, I need the brake parts-handle, band, misc pieces associated with brake-to complete this project.

 

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more data

I think it is low compression. I can't even get it over 75psi hand cranking the engine. I didn't bother trying the "oil the cylinder" trick.

If someone has brake parts, I would be interested. I won't buy top end parts until I know I can complete the saw with brake.

 

[andrethegiant70]

That's a toughie. Try the drop test, since I assume you do not have a compression tester. Hold the saw in the air by the pull handle (with one hand) and the saw by the top handle with the other. Drop the saw while holding the pull rope and note how the saw acts while the rope is paying out. Does it fall gradually in a series of slow bumps? Or does it move fairly quickly to the end of the rope? If the former, you probably have enough compression for the saw to run. If the latter, you need some top end work.

Also, have you considered the possibility that you have completely flooded the saw out? The crankcase could be full of fuel for all your trying and you would get about the same result you describe. Pull the plug, turn the saw on it's side and pull 10 or 20 times. Leave the plug out and walk away for a while to let the remainder evaporate. Now try to prime and start the saw, but use only about 1/2 tblspoon of mix.

One other thing you might try. I got frustrated once with a Husky 50....I could pull the plug and see spark, but when I installed the plug it failed. I only realized this when I tried to start the saw in the backyard at night. I saw the spark arc out from under the crusty plug boot to the OUTSIDE of the plug. It was weird. Try another plug...make sure its the right one for the saw.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Oops, never mind. 75PSI won't cut it. A brake for that saw isn't hard to find, same as 61, 268, 272. The 266 is a great saw, you should rebuild it. It might just need a piston ($35?).

 

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thanks

I'll start with a ring and deglaze the cylinder. actually, I will start with a deglaze and inspect the ring to see if it will reseat. if not, they are only $8 or $9 delivered on ebay.

it is a heavy, metal saw, but displacing 67cc, so I hear you--could be a decent medium workhorse. although the oil tank is empty, it is pumping oil when i crank it. so the oil pump works. that is a good sign considering the rebuild.

now that I know the "same as" saws, I can scrounge up parts.

regarding the drop test, it would have "bumped down." it feels "normal."

But now that I think about it in light of the 75psi result, I would say "it feels normal for a 50cc saw, but not a 67 cc saw."

thanks for the help,

ms

 

[andrethegiant70]

Given what you say about the "normal feel" and the fact that you feel it would bump down slowly, I would try to "back up" your compression test with another testing unit. There are lots of threads on here that seem to indicate to me that some testers don't work well on saws.

I don't have a compression tester (I REALLY need to get one) but I've now had enough saws to have a good feel for what will run and what won't. Do a few searches and do some reading on what testing units people are using. Any old automotive tester will not necessarily work. Some produce very low readings. It would be a bummer if you rebuilt a perfectly good top end.

 

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266 Se

yep, used an auto tester, the kind you have to hold in. I did it two or three times. same each time, very low. I pulled good and hard and got 3 or 4 or 5 pulses each time.

I have often wondered about the volume of air in the test apparatus and how to reliably test small engines.

I will read up on it.

or else, I will just make a low-volume tester.

Thanks again for the input!

 

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266 Se

I will also do "free fall" test and compare to my Stihl 290 to get an idea of leakage.

 

[Nailgunner]

Hello

the volume of air in a tester won't make a lot of difference if it is properly valved at the "plug". Screw in ones are easier obviously; but the peak pressure at the cylinder is what will eventually be read at the gauge. A tester with a long pipe will just need more pulls.

You may well get away with a ring ... mine roared like a gorilla after I pulled the piston, un-stuck the ring and polished a skidmark out of the pot. Still going strong now! This may be all it takes.

It's almost certainly repairable and it'll be a real blast to run. Get stuck in

 

[bama]

yep, used an auto tester, the kind you have to hold in. I did it two or three times. same each time, very low. I pulled good and hard and got 3 or 4 or 5 pulses each time.

I have often wondered about the volume of air in the test apparatus and how to reliably test small engines.

I will read up on it.

or else, I will just make a low-volume tester.

Thanks again for the input!

You need a tester with a schroeder(sp?) valve in it or the readings will be low even if the top end is good. They aren't too expensive. I think I paid $20 for mine. If the plug is weak, it may show spark and then under compression it might fail. I don't know if the same would be true with a module. I know on boat 2-cycles it is a possiblity.

 

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tester

thanks, I think you are right.

I tried different numbers of pulls on the rope. it always maxed out near 70psi whether it was one pull or five.

the tester has a very-easy-to-open Schrader valve right at the plug bore.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The 266`s are usually very high compression saws, we have 6 of them here and they all read over 150 and up to 165 lbs comp cold. They would be really hard to start under 100 lbs comp and considered in need of a rebuild, piston rings at least when they drop below 120 lbs comp. The brake bands are no longer available from Huskvarna at least around here but they show up on eBay quite frequently, I have bought new bands and even complete clutch covers with bands and handles at reasonable prices from sellers on eBay. Maybe some of the site sponsors on here can get them for you. The 266`s are a really good size saw for firewood cutting and have a good reputation for durability around these parts.
Pioneerguy600

 

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runs

Thanks everyone for the tips.
I pulled the jug, got the ring off, hard-arkansas stoned the ring a bit, hydrofluroic acid on q-tips to clean bore, light hone and reassembled.

compression was around 110 after that (no break in, questionable ring).

it started and ran and I put a long tube into a can of fuel (saw has rotten fuel line) and got it running rich. seems OK, so thanks again for the tips.

I will start searching for brake parts/bars/chains. I can get a fuel line locally for high $$ http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/mad.gif

ms

 

[Nailgunner]

Excellent, you'll like it, it's a proper pitbull for firewooding. As mine, you may need a new piston and jug at some point, but it may go on a long time. How much are the fuel lines for these? May be worth it just to get the thing going well.

 

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molded line

they are $15. just barely NOT worth it to hand-make something like a proper bulkhead fitting (thread the tank hole).

also, what magical, fuel-dissolvable rubber did they use on the originals? it is remarkable how gooey the brown factory Husky crap was. it was a blob in the tank like silly putty. I hope they use the black rubber now days like my Stihl's have.

I also need a gromet to fit a fuel tank on a John Deere trimmer--the tank has a 3/4" hole. you would think that could be found easy, but no body stocks...

I think the brake parts will be the big challenge--everything else I can rig up. I see aftermarket clutch covers with brakes on ebay for $50 or so.

and why does Husky put the clutch on backwards? it is a PITA putting a bar and chain on compared to a Stihl. and the husky manual says to grease the clutch bearing through the hole in the crank. has anyone EVER seen a drilled husky crank like this? it is a great idea especially considering the difficulty of servicing a backwards clutch (unscrew from crank instead of E-clip) but I have yet to see a husky crank with anything but a lathe-center-dimple on the crank.

oh well, most of the bigger cutting is done so I can sell the Stihl, take the money and live with the husky for a while

 

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grease hole for clutch

FYI everyone, I popped the clutch off and lo-and-behold, this old 266SE has the grease hole that was referenced in the manuals I saw before.

The rancher I worked on did not have that even though the manual said it did.

So, maybe they stopped making the holes and never fixed the manuals....

ms

 

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brake question

will a 261 and 262 brake fit on the 266? someone said the 61, 268, 272 will fit (thanks Andre?). What about 261 and 262 clutch cover?

Thanks!

 

[scootr]

Nope, the 261, 262 is a different animal. 61, 66, 266, 268 and 272 should all be the same.

 

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thanks scootr!

thanks scootr!!!

 

[bigjake]

Make sure you have enough spark if its red and fuzzy it wont hit.it needs a
blue spark.