romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Or if your desperate, a jonsered 625, 630, or 670 bar cover with brake will work,,,,, even though it looks a little funny.
husqvarna 266 SE won't fire
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Or if your desperate, a jonsered 625, 630, or 670 bar cover with brake will work,,,,, even though it looks a little funny.
chain catcher
thanks again guys (gals?)
anyone know about the chain catcher on this? I am looking a an IPL that doesn't show the classic hook. there is a blocky looking thing 503 53 58-01 and hardware to mount. did these guys use a strange catcher? I am fixing up a saw with no brake (removed?) and no chain catcher (appears to have extra washers under the front, lower case screw).
These are features I want so am trying to round up the pieces. Husky IPL doesn't have any hint (like a name) as to what the parts are. I would prefer to order one with the other parts I need instead of making one!
thanks again guys (gals?)
anyone know about the chain catcher on this? I am looking a an IPL that doesn't show the classic hook. there is a blocky looking thing 503 53 58-01 and hardware to mount. did these guys use a strange catcher? I am fixing up a saw with no brake (removed?) and no chain catcher (appears to have extra washers under the front, lower case screw).
These are features I want so am trying to round up the pieces. Husky IPL doesn't have any hint (like a name) as to what the parts are. I would prefer to order one with the other parts I need instead of making one!
This number will fit on your saw.Its plastic instead of metal,less damage to the chain when she comes off.The extra washers are installed beacuse the original bolt is too long w/o catcher,and if the bolt is loose,she will "eat" the hole.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I believe there are after-market options as well - Baileys?
SawTroll
Information Collector
Plastic chain catcher????? :monkey: - guess it is best to buy several at a time......:censored:
chain catcher
I do indeed maintain my gear and keep the brake installed and tested.
and I keep chain catchers on the saws, too.
I don't have a problem with plastic--I think the steel screw passes through it and will stop a rogue chain that came off when the throttle stuck.
do you guys really have chains come off? I though it was for when the chain breaks. I have never had a chain come off--in fact, I can't imagine how loose it would have to be to "come off." that is WAY more loose that just seeing the tips of the drivers on a way-too-loose sagging chain?
that said, I did rebuild a 038 with 25" bar where about a dozen of the drivers on the chain were very chongered--clearly it had come off at some point and got chewed badly.
I do indeed maintain my gear and keep the brake installed and tested.
and I keep chain catchers on the saws, too.
I don't have a problem with plastic--I think the steel screw passes through it and will stop a rogue chain that came off when the throttle stuck.
do you guys really have chains come off? I though it was for when the chain breaks. I have never had a chain come off--in fact, I can't imagine how loose it would have to be to "come off." that is WAY more loose that just seeing the tips of the drivers on a way-too-loose sagging chain?
that said, I did rebuild a 038 with 25" bar where about a dozen of the drivers on the chain were very chongered--clearly it had come off at some point and got chewed badly.
Yep,happens when you have to cut small branches many at a time,or you have to cut a lot of small trees close together,bushes.
fuel line
Hey all:
I am going to reassemble the 266SE and was wondering which way the fuel line goes.
Does it get pressed in from the outside of the tank, or does it get pulled through from the inside?
It doesn't have a "molded-in grommet" but instead, just a molded-in thick part with a single step--or a "half grommet" if you know what I mean.
pulling through from inside will better handle tank pressure, but be harder to install. AT this small diameter, I doubt tank pressure could ever push it out regardless of which side of the tank I put the step.
The old one was too degraded to identify or to see which way it was installed.
Thanks!!!
Hey all:
I am going to reassemble the 266SE and was wondering which way the fuel line goes.
Does it get pressed in from the outside of the tank, or does it get pulled through from the inside?
It doesn't have a "molded-in grommet" but instead, just a molded-in thick part with a single step--or a "half grommet" if you know what I mean.
pulling through from inside will better handle tank pressure, but be harder to install. AT this small diameter, I doubt tank pressure could ever push it out regardless of which side of the tank I put the step.
The old one was too degraded to identify or to see which way it was installed.
Thanks!!!
Pull from the inside.Bring down tru the hole a bendable rod like a welding one,insert it in the fuel line and"pull"it .the rod will guide tru the hole.
husky kind of a joke
well, it is mostly together and runs and cuts well. it still has no brake. I acquired a broken clutch cover with all brake parts hoping to put them in the good clutch cover with no brake parts. Both were from 266 but i guess Husky felt they didn't do the design job correctly the first time around because the main spring diameter and band-attachment rod diameter are different and the parts won't fit. The fixed end of the brake band also had a different attachment. I planned to just re-work the fixed end to fit the clutch cover that is not broken. now I am looking at drilling and counter boring the housing to hold the larger diameter parts. Or I can try to get a proper band and spring (and what else?). Does any one know the part numbers from before and after the brake band change so I can intellegently shop for the correct pieces?
I have an IPL showing a simple band with "U" bends at each end. I think this is what I want, along with the main spring. this shows the plastic brake handle, so maybe it is the "newer" version. They call it 503 57 22-01. of course, the trip mechanism and everything else is probably different?
It would appear that my IPL shows a brake system without the funny thumbwheel adjuster screw, where as the broken cover I wanted to use the parts from had the metal-handle, adjustment-thumbwheel type.
does anyone even know what the thumbwheel does? is it for setting the trip sensitivity so it will pop even if untouched due to angular acceleration?
Or I could feed it the $50 plastic aftermarket crappy-looking housings i see around with (maybe) working brake?
any ideas? anyone got 266SE brake parts? or maybe my cover is not from an SE and is instead a "first edition" with differnt than expected brake parts?
well, it is mostly together and runs and cuts well. it still has no brake. I acquired a broken clutch cover with all brake parts hoping to put them in the good clutch cover with no brake parts. Both were from 266 but i guess Husky felt they didn't do the design job correctly the first time around because the main spring diameter and band-attachment rod diameter are different and the parts won't fit. The fixed end of the brake band also had a different attachment. I planned to just re-work the fixed end to fit the clutch cover that is not broken. now I am looking at drilling and counter boring the housing to hold the larger diameter parts. Or I can try to get a proper band and spring (and what else?). Does any one know the part numbers from before and after the brake band change so I can intellegently shop for the correct pieces?
I have an IPL showing a simple band with "U" bends at each end. I think this is what I want, along with the main spring. this shows the plastic brake handle, so maybe it is the "newer" version. They call it 503 57 22-01. of course, the trip mechanism and everything else is probably different?
It would appear that my IPL shows a brake system without the funny thumbwheel adjuster screw, where as the broken cover I wanted to use the parts from had the metal-handle, adjustment-thumbwheel type.
does anyone even know what the thumbwheel does? is it for setting the trip sensitivity so it will pop even if untouched due to angular acceleration?
Or I could feed it the $50 plastic aftermarket crappy-looking housings i see around with (maybe) working brake?
any ideas? anyone got 266SE brake parts? or maybe my cover is not from an SE and is instead a "first edition" with differnt than expected brake parts?
Huskvarna brake bands for the 266
1981 to 1988 part # 501 83 02-01
1989 and up part # 503 57 22-01
Pioneerguy600
1981 to 1988 part # 501 83 02-01
1989 and up part # 503 57 22-01
Pioneerguy600
I have all the ipl`s for Huskvarna 266`s from 1981 to 2001 and can look up parts from them but need specific parts and year of manufacture to choose which IPL to take # from. I do repair work on them and have 5-6 of them around at most times, they are a long lasting very tough chainsaw.
The thumb wheel does adjust the sensitivity to set off the brake by inertia during kick back .
The aftermarket plastic handled brake covers work reasonably enough and the OEM brake cover from the 1989 model and newer is a very well engineered part and will fit the older 266`s.
The XP and SE covers are the same and interchange between all the 266`s.
Pioneerguy600
Nailgunner
ArboristSite Operative
The thumb wheel should press against the top handle and set off the chain brake if you put too much pressure on the top handle (or if the saw kicks but your hand stays on the handle). mine triggers if I put the bar nose on a stump and give the top handle a firm shove down (a bit more force than you'd ever need for sawing). It's also shut off the chain from relatively minor kickback events - little grabby, sticky-wood moments really, but the brake came on and stopped all the mischief.
emmpee
ArboristSite Lurker
same problem 170psi though
I have the exact same problem except very good compression 170psi(automotive tester drop test is perfect I have very light blue spark but no fire at all please help (new plug,fresh gas) thanks
I have the exact same problem except very good compression 170psi(automotive tester drop test is perfect I have very light blue spark but no fire at all please help (new plug,fresh gas) thanks
`Squirt a bit of gas under the plug,unhook the lead to the switch,and try again.If she doesnt start,then probably your black unit is gone,the coil rarely miss assuming your compression is ok and flywheel keyway is in good condition.
emmpee
ArboristSite Lurker
Black unit?
Do you mean the pack to the left of the flywheel? that you adjust. thank you for the quick reply
Do you mean the pack to the left of the flywheel? that you adjust. thank you for the quick reply
Yes,the one close to oil cap.
emmpee
ArboristSite Lurker
more info
I have descent blue spark I just took the jug off and inspected the ring and cleaned everything it all looked good. is it possible to have misaligned the key when reinstalling the flywheel? or pushing it out of its groove? I don't get the blue spark until about the third pull. Most importantly can the ignition module be bad even with blue spark, do they get week and not put out enough spark under compression?
I have descent blue spark I just took the jug off and inspected the ring and cleaned everything it all looked good. is it possible to have misaligned the key when reinstalling the flywheel? or pushing it out of its groove? I don't get the blue spark until about the third pull. Most importantly can the ignition module be bad even with blue spark, do they get week and not put out enough spark under compression?
