Husqvarna 266SE Rebuild

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kcjones

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It's got the 2 piece ignition. can't figure out where the yellow wires got. Help is appreciated.
 
As your facing the flywheel,both wires connect together just below the right side of the piece that has the spark plug wire on it there should be a plastic lnsert with a small screw hole in the middle of it,the two yellow wires are connected with a small screw in the plastic insert, the plastic piece keeps the wires from grounding out.
 
Spoke too soon. It will start, but won't idle at all. I adjusted the carb to what the manual says. It won't stay running unless you stay on the throttle. Let off and it dies.
 
Set the idle speed high with the adjuster and adjust your low setting by ear. Better to start rich ( turned out) and adjust in slowly until it starts to lean out (starts to increase revs) then back it out slightly.
At that point adjust idle down to the point where the clutch disengages and check for throttle response off idle. At that point you can adjust your h screw.

Be concious that your low might currently be super lean (not enough fuel) or super rich(to much fuel). The former will see revs rise just before it dies and the later will see fluffy operation (warbling sound before death).
 
I did what you said. It would start and idle, but surge up and down like crazy. It was getting late and the wife wife was tired of the noise so I quit for the night. Now it won't start at all.
 
Mate the bad news is that surging like this generally points to an air leak. You are going to have to work that out as you will burn up your saw if not rectified. You might just have an intake leak, or it could be seals. The surging is because it is sucking in air and thus running lean.
 
New crank seals. I think its its intake. Is don't think the carb is seating against the manifold.
 
Intake looks solid. But as I'm looking at, there is a gap between the carb and the intake, on the left side. Do the intake blocks shrink over time?
 
IMG_4493.JPG

Ummm....

Where is the base gasket for the carb that goes between the carb flange and that nylon intake assembly?

I don't see one where the gap is.... and it has to have a gasket there.

I just brought one of these 266SE's back to life and it is a nice saw.
 
If your intake block is warped (unlikely),

I can send a good used one I have....

Also, did the carb bolts that retain the carb bottom out before the carb was pulled up tight to the intake block?
 
You need a gasket there and on the cylinder end. It also looks like something might be stopping it from seating properly. The simplest way to confirm an air leak there is to run the saw and spray some wd40 or even water at the gap and see what happens. If the revs clearly change you are sucking in from there.
Now another thing is, did you put the intake together before you put the cylinder back on. The early 61's and 266 are extremely hard to put the intake on when you have the cylinder back on as trying to get the whole intake over the lip of the cases is a pita. It may be that you have the intake snagged on something so even if you have the bolts "tight" it is not actually compressing all the intake parts.
If it were me I would take the cylinder and intake off and redo it with new gaskets and then put the assembled top end back on.
 
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