Husqvarna 266SE Rebuild

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I'm starting to think the jug I got is not right for this saw. The intake block is easy to get in and no matter what it won't seat at the jug intake or intake block. About to put a 268 kit in.:angry:
 
New crank seals. I think its its intake. Is don't think the carb is seating against the manifold.

New crank seals.......but......did you also replace the o-ring in the seal carrier on the flywheel side? Also the oil pump (which carries the PTO side seal) is o-ringed to the case as well. These are the same part number and are special orings that must be sourced from Husqvarna......not your average auto parts store orings. Excellent chance for an air leak if not replaced. Just a suggestion.....
 
New crank seals.......but......did you also replace the o-ring in the seal carrier on the flywheel side? Also the oil pump (which carries the PTO side seal) is o-ringed to the case as well. These are the same part number and are special orings that must be sourced from Husqvarna......not your average auto parts store orings. Excellent chance for an air leak if not replaced. Just a suggestion.....
I bought extrs for my 181se,and 162,266 series saws.Husky is dropping lots of the
old parts for thes old gems that were so fond of
 
Yep I keep a few for this family and some for the 262 family too.......perhaps I should stock up a bit more.....if you can't get those O-rings the saw is pretty much done.....not something you can get used like many other parts....
keep the vids coming,I have a 910e and enjoyed you & spike 60s series &the 630 as I also
have a couple of 162s
 
Is it better hand tighten the clutch and flywheel down or use an impact? Are there specific torque ratings?
 
I always just barely bump them up snug on the lowest setting of my impact, being reverse thread means the clutch is forced tighter by the crank turning against it anyways.

Make sure and have a plug in the hole to use the compression to your advantage. I don’t like using mechanical piston stops, as I have seen rods on lesser saws get bent by mechanical piston stops, but never by using the compression to force against.

I have done 100+ saws this way and never had an issue...

Others would probably disagree that I am doing it wrong, but if there is a hex surface on the clutch, I like to use a light impact on it. I do the same thing to remove the clutch, using a spark plug in the chamber for compression to assist me with a cushion to the crank that way.
 
I used a piece of starter rope in the spark plug hole. Torqued them by hand. Seemed to work well. Didn't have a chance to try it yet. I'll try your method if they loosen up. Thanks rynosawr.
 
Sure thing, your method works fine on these big saws, just don’t do that on the ones with little rods, particularly the small Stihl and Husky clamshells with stamped rods....

They really don’t have to be that tight at all because of the reverse thread direction..... spark plug and impact = quick and easy
 
A 268 or 272 carb will work, only thing that is different is the idle adjustment. If you use one of those carbs you will have to remove the top cover. But no big deal
 
If you get the later adjustment guide tunnel with a carb for a 269/272 you can simply cut an opening in early top cover to accept it. Then you don't have to remove the cover to adjust the idle. First pic shows the idle adjustment tunnel inside the carb area. The second, the cut out from the outside. (Same saw...different variations/times/intakes)

630 Build 015.jpg Nick's 359 and new XPs 002.JPG
 
I believe the jonsered 630 has a similar type carb as the original type 266 carb. The idle adjustment is even the same . But a cool feature about the 630 carb is the high idle is set on the choke. Might need to use the jonsered choke lever as well
 
I might add that the 268/272 carbs have a different intake block and carb bolts that you will need if you go that route. The jonsered 630 will be the same intake block
 
I believe the jonsered 630 has a similar type carb as the original type 266 carb. The idle adjustment is even the same . But a cool feature about the 630 carb is the high idle is set on the choke. Might need to use the jonsered choke lever as well

The early ones were but after the case change (two piece ign to one piece) they too, did away with the in case idle adjuster and went with the taper headed on carb adjuster. All the carbs for all the Jonsereds of this family use the same choke activated high idle and all the Husky carbs use the trigger lock high idle......the 61 Husky in the previous pics has both as it runs the 250A 670 Jonsered carb on the husky frame/tank/trigger assembly. One of the funniest things was the choke pull.....the Husky pull would not work with the Jered configured carb.....I was puzzeled for a time as I didn't at the time have an extra Jonsered pull.....but after a while it came to me...I simply flipped the Husky pull upside down and it worked fine...LOL!!!

630 Build 012.jpg 630 Build 013.jpg
 
The early ones were but after the case change (two piece ign to one piece) they too, did away with the in case idle adjuster and went with the taper headed on carb adjuster. All the carbs for all the Jonsereds of this family use the same choke activated high idle and all the Husky carbs use the trigger lock high idle......the 61 Husky in the previous pics has both as it runs the 250A 670 Jonsered carb on the husky frame/tank/trigger assembly. One of the funniest things was the choke pull.....the Husky pull would not work with the Jered configured carb.....I was puzzeled for a time as I didn't at the time have an extra Jonsered pull.....but after a while it came to me...I simply flipped the Husky pull upside down and it worked fine...LOL!!!

View attachment 641239 View attachment 641240
My 630 has that style carb, I thought about putting in on my 266. Is the 630 carb smaller? Would that carb choke up the 266?
 

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