Husqvarna 340/345/350 Jonsered 2141/2145/2150 Information

[redunshee]

What I do to them is trim the plastic clamp off and use a stihl or Husky clamp around the boot. Take the rubber boot out,and watch you don't cut the little nipple off too ! Never had one leak after that.

I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
Bob

 

[moody]

I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
Bob

It's big enough. You just have to get the impulse nipple lined up. You can't shove it all the way down or it will rip the boot. Those clamps work well in fact its almost the only clamp I use.

 

[tbone75]

I did that but the husky 272or 372 (. Can't recall which) clamp wasn't big enough. Ended up with the new 353 metal clamp that hooks together. I find it much easier to install the boot with the cylinder off, so any leaks mean I have to repeatedly pull the cylinder. Guess that's the most frustrating part. Will try again. Thanks.
Bob

I always put the boot on first. If you trimmed the old plastic clamp off that 353 clamp would be to big ? Maybe you don't trim them all the way off like I do ? I do the same thing to a 357/359.

 

[tbone75]

Just finished putting a 350 & 353 together today. I trimmed the clamps off both of them,had to use stihl clamps,didn't have any Husky clamps left. LOL No leaks anywhere !

 

[redunshee]

I always put the boot on first. If you trimmed the old plastic clamp off that 353 clamp would be to big ? Maybe you don't trim them all the way off like I do ? I do the same thing to a 357/359.

Yea, I did that this time.mput the boot on first and then installed the carb adaptor or whatever the plastic piece is called. Blew air thru the cylinder impulse opening to be sure I was getting flow thru. Next step will be to reinstall the cylinder and do my pressure test. I did notice that using this approach the adaptor doesn't go on as far as the boot towards the cylinder. There is about a 1/8" of the boot showing. Hope this works.
Bob

 

[tbone75]

Yea, I did that this time.mput the boot on first and then installed the carb adaptor or whatever the plastic piece is called. Blew air thru the cylinder impulse opening to be sure I was getting flow thru. Next step will be to reinstall the cylinder and do my pressure test. I did notice that using this approach the adaptor doesn't go on as far as the boot towards the cylinder. There is about a 1/8" of the boot showing. Hope this works.
Bob

Sure hope it works !

I have done several like that,never had any problems ! Least a dozen now. LOL

 

[modder]

I just picked up 2- 2005, 2150 jonsereds for $50 each with a new B&C on each. The guy said they were burned up but after looking at the P&C on both, and checking compression, they are fine. They both are sucking air so will not idle properly, both have spring mounts that are loose so the throttle will only go half way open using the trigger. One is missing a muffler and has melted the case, but I have a good one for parts that I can swap out.

My plan is to mod one and leave the other stock. I have an extra carb from a 357xp that Im going to put on, do a bit of porting, swap out the dish top piston for a 353 flat top piston, and do a muffle mod. If anyone has already done all of the same to theirs, I would love to hear how it turned out. I really liked my previous 2150 so I'm looking forward to trying one out with more zip.

Great thread. I really liked playing with my saws before finding this site, but now I find myself searching classifieds daily for broken, cheap, husqereds to bring back to life. I cant get enough.

 

[moody]

I just picked up 2- 2005, 2150 jonsereds for $50 each with a new B&C on each. The guy said they were burned up but after looking at the P&C on both, and checking compression, they are fine. They both are sucking air so will not idle properly, both have spring mounts that are loose so the throttle will only go half way open using the trigger. One is missing a muffler and has melted the case, but I have a good one for parts that I can swap out.

My plan is to mod one and leave the other stock. I have an extra carb from a 357xp that Im going to put on, do a bit of porting, swap out the dish top piston for a 353 flat top piston, and do a muffle mod. If anyone has already done all of the same to theirs, I would love to hear how it turned out. I really liked my previous 2150 so I'm looking forward to trying one out with more zip.

Great thread. I really liked playing with my saws before finding this site, but now I find myself searching classifieds daily for broken, cheap, husqereds to bring back to life. I cant get enough.

I've done a few of them. They do very well just don't get crazy raising the transfers. There's only so far you can go before you start going back wards. Are you cutting the squish band?

 

[modder]

I've done a few of them. They do very well just don't get crazy raising the transfers. There's only so far you can go before you start going back wards. Are you cutting the squish band?

I planned on tossing the base gasket as long as the current squish will allow. From What I can see from my solder strip test, there is more than enough room but I will need to check again after I swap out for the flat top piston.

Question. Has anyone ever tried milling down the riser, then use gaskets to adjust to the perfect squish. Im sure some have done it, but on bikes, we would have the base of the cylinder milled, then use different size gaskets to get the proper squish. The reason why I ask is, it is cheaper for me to get the riser done than it would be for the cylinder. That would also allow me to take a bit off the top outside rim of the existing piston, making it lighter and turning it into a flat top. Is anyone going to tell me I'm nuts.

 

[wcorey]

Deck the cylinder or deck the block, six 'o one, half dozen 'o the other.
Unless doing the block is easier/cheaper for you of course.
I'm set up so it only takes 5 minutes to do the cylinder so no big deal, though I
only wish I could cut the squish band that quickly. Those are a bit of a pain to set up...

I guess one advantage of doing the block is that if the jug gets replaced the new one doesn't need to get cut.
Sort of like when cutting the squish band instead of a pop-up.

Still need to re-adjust the port timing accordingly though. Or not...

As for leveling off the top of the dished piston...
I had looked into doing it but the depth of the dish is such that it wouldn't leave much to support the ring.
Not sure what's considered acceptable there but I'd be uncomfortable with this one.

I thought about going down to the first step only then welding in whats left
in the middle and while I'm there already might as well do a pop-up.

But for $35 a 353 meteor seems like a reasonable option...

That and most of the free/cheap 350's I get are toasted so the pistons aren't useable anyway.
I think I'm up to 7 of them now...

 

[modder]

Deck the cylinder or deck the block, six 'o one, half dozen 'o the other.
Unless doing the block is easier/cheaper for you of course.
I'm set up so it only takes 5 minutes to do the cylinder so no big deal, though I
only wish I could cut the squish band that quickly. Those are a bit of a pain to set up...

I guess one advantage of doing the block is that if the jug gets replaced the new one doesn't need to get cut.
Sort of like when cutting the squish band instead of a pop-up.

Still need to re-adjust the port timing accordingly though. Or not...

As for leveling off the top of the dished piston...
I had looked into doing it but the depth of the dish is such that it wouldn't leave much to support the ring.
Not sure what's considered acceptable there but I'd be uncomfortable with this one.

I thought about going down to the first step only then welding in whats left
in the middle and while I'm there already might as well do a pop-up.

But for $35 a 353 meteor seems like a reasonable option...

That and most of the free/cheap 350's I get are toasted so the pistons aren't useable anyway.
I think I'm up to 7 of them now...

I wondered also if it would be too thin between the ring and top. Could risk apiece breaking off and then I'm in for a new P&C. Thanks for the advice, my original plan of a 353 piston would probably be best. I kinda regret selling my 2149. I would rather have the magnesium case but I cant keep them all............unless I change the lock on my garage and tell the wife they don't make spare keys anymore. She keeps giving me that annoyed look out of the corner of her eye, every time she sees another saw on the bench. I could get that band cut but I'm told that is extremely expensive. :smile2:

 

[modder]

Question. Back several pages, someone spoke of omitting the transfer cover gaskets. I don't understand the benefit to doing this. Would that not reduce the volume of the transfers, therefore reducing performance. I had thought of putting in a thicker gasket to easily increase transfer volume, then raise and widen them to accommodate for lowering the squish. Maybe my understanding on that post is not correct, or there is something I'm not getting. Someone also mentioned swapping the jug out for a 42mm 346OE and getting good gains. They mentioned they did it because thats what they had on hand at the time, so I can appreciate that, but in my case, wouldn't I get the most gains from a flat top pistons and some porting, or is the 346 jug just so superior that it will produce more hp than my 45mm jug even if I do some porting.

 

[redunshee]

Husky 353 going

Finally got the saw reassembled and running. Runs fine but I noticed it would stall occassionally, Happened to look at clutch while running and noticed sparks were coming between the cluth and sprocket. Thought I had forgotten to install the spacer/ washer between the two but IPL doesn't show one. Possibly the clutch springs are streched out so I may need to replace them. Can't think of another reason for the friction.


Bob

 

[moody]

Question. Back several pages, someone spoke of omitting the transfer cover gaskets. I don't understand the benefit to doing this. Would that not reduce the volume of the transfers, therefore reducing performance. I had thought of putting in a thicker gasket to easily increase transfer volume, then raise and widen them to accommodate for lowering the squish. Maybe my understanding on that post is not correct, or there is something I'm not getting. Someone also mentioned swapping the jug out for a 42mm 346OE and getting good gains. They mentioned they did it because thats what they had on hand at the time, so I can appreciate that, but in my case, wouldn't I get the most gains from a flat top pistons and some porting, or is the 346 jug just so superior that it will produce more hp than my 45mm jug even if I do some porting.

Volume isn't always a good thing. Velocity makes a world of difference. Know anything about air rams?

I can do the same numbers on a saw. But on one I increase volume and my transfers don't increase velocity it'll be lazy and very unforgiving. What happens to fuel/air mixtures when they slow down?......... they don't mix and you don't get s complete burn aka waste of power. Not everything needs a grinder put to it.

 

[modder]

Volume isn't always a good thing. Velocity makes a world of difference. Know anything about air rams?

I can do the same numbers on a saw. But on one I increase volume and my transfers don't increase velocity it'll be lazy and very unforgiving. What happens to fuel/air mixtures when they slow down?......... they don't mix and you don't get s complete burn aka waste of power. Not everything needs a grinder put to it.

I don't know anything about air rams on saws, unless you are talking about crank stuffers, which reduce the volume of the crank case and increase velocity, pressure and mix the fuel and air more effectively....unless I understand it wrong. I have played with ram air systems on bikes and cars and increasing pressure does a lot for the fuel\air mixture and can increase power when done properly, but saws are a completely different animal, even when comparing them to 2 stroke bikes.
I've had lots of ideas running through my head on how to get some more juice from my 2150 but I'm still learning so I tend to ask lots of questions and I'm sure others have had many of the same ideas and may have tried some of them already. I'm trying to prevent some disappointing results. I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers, and adding a carb from a 357xp would provide the additional air and fuel to accomodate the larger volume ports (once opened up). I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also. As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture. Does any of that make sense, or is my head on backwards.

 

[moody]

I don't know anything about air rams on saws, unless you are talking about crank stuffers, which reduce the volume of the crank case and increase velocity, pressure and mix the fuel and air more effectively....unless I understand it wrong. I have played with ram air systems on bikes and cars and increasing pressure does a lot for the fuel\air mixture and can increase power when done properly, but saws are a completely different animal, even when comparing them to 2 stroke bikes.
I've had lots of ideas running through my head on how to get some more juice from my 2150 but I'm still learning so I tend to ask lots of questions and I'm sure others have had many of the same ideas and may have tried some of them already. I'm trying to prevent some disappointing results. I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers, and adding a carb from a 357xp would provide the additional air and fuel to accomodate the larger volume ports (once opened up). I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also. As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture. Does any of that make sense, or is my head on backwards.

A 2 stroke is no different. Air rams and transfers have a common ground. Air fuel mix travels then build pressure and is released. It may only be momentary on a 2 stroke but it happens. I'm not trying to argue or be rude but when you read up some more just shoot me a message. You seem to know the answers already because I explained it once.

 

[tolman_paul]

Reducing your transfer volume has the same effect as adding stuffers to the crank and hence increases the pumping efficiency of the engine. The "crankcase" volume is really the volume in the crankcase, under the piston and in the transfer passages. The transfer passages need to be large enough so that they don't constrict the flow from the crankcase and into the cylinder, but ideally no larger. Removing the gaskets would be one way to improve pumping efficiency if the passages are larger than needed, you could also build them up with aluminum epoxy and smooth out any abrupt transitions.

 

[wcorey]

I was thinking that the original jug would be easier to port since you can remove the covers,

I assume you mean easier than a 346 without the removable covers?
Easier to do the uppers yes but with the 359 and 350 the lowers are a convoluted shape and require more work than on a 357 or 346.
So which is really easier?

As I understand it, the transfers should narrow slightly as they go up, with the ports opening to the combustion chamber being slightly narrower than those at the bottom of the cylinder, to provide proper velocity and mixture.

I agree, this has been my understanding also. The shape of the curve leading into the combustion chamber also plays a big part in this as far as directing the charge across the piston.

I also thought adding thicker gaskets to the port covers would be a quick way to increase port volume as long as the openings to the combustion chamber were widened also.

Yes but there's still the question of if there's already sufficient volume and more velocity is what's need instead. Also you may be only assuming the lower transfer opening can be made large enough otherwise there would be no need to create more volume in the middle of the transfer than the lower opening can support.

IMHO if the volume in the middle is increased toward the outer wall and has more cross section than the lower opening, the charge will just choose the straightest path through.
It will not need to follow the outer radius and get the benefit of of being smoothly transitioned/directed out the uppers but rather go right up the inside wall and hit the top of the upper openings at a tangent before being pushed into the cylinder.
This would seem to act much like a straight up open port design, except instead of hitting a radius on top to help direct it out, some charge could then go back toward the (more or less unused in this case) outer/middle part of the transfer and cause turbulence.

If you were to follow/match the added outside area/radius with material added to the inside horizontal divider, then that might get you something...

 

[modder]

I assume you mean easier than a 346 without the removable covers?
Easier to do the uppers yes but with the 359 and 350 the lowers are a convoluted shape and require more work than on a 357 or 346.
So which is really easier?

I agree, this has been my understanding also. The shape of the curve leading into the combustion chamber also plays a big part in this as far as directing the charge across the piston.

Yes but there's still the question of if there's already sufficient volume and more velocity is what's need instead. Also you may be only assuming the lower transfer opening can be made large enough otherwise there would be no need to create more volume in the middle of the transfer than the lower opening can support.

IMHO if the volume in the middle is increased toward the outer wall and has more cross section than the lower opening, the charge will just choose the straightest path through.
It will not need to follow the outer radius and get the benefit of of being smoothly transitioned/directed out the uppers but rather go right up the inside wall and hit the top of the upper openings at a tangent before being pushed into the cylinder.
This would seem to act much like a straight up open port design, except instead of hitting a radius on top to help direct it out, some charge could then go back toward the (more or less unused in this case) outer/middle part of the transfer and cause turbulence.

If you were to follow/match the added outside area/radius with material added to the inside horizontal divider, then that might get you something...

Thanks for the clarity. That makes a lot of sense. You have answered my questions well. One of the reasons I was asking about getting more power out of the 2150 jug over the 346 was because I read a post a while back about someone saying they could get more performance out of the 359 jug over the 357 jug by porting. That would be comparable to this situation. I wondered if it was accurate and if so, if it were possible for an amateur like myself. I have noticed the intake of the transfers doesn't look as accepting of smooth flow and the ports to the combustion are of completely different angle in the 2150 (and the 359). I appreciate those that take the time to explain stuff to those that are still learning, and am sorry to those that get frustrated by explaining stuff over and over. The reason why I joined this site is because a person can ask questions and have the chance of getting an answer from someone that knows their stuff. When reading text books, or just reading info online, you can't ask specific questions.

 

[moody]

Thanks for the clarity. That makes a lot of sense. You have answered my questions well. One of the reasons I was asking about getting more power out of the 2150 jug over the 346 was because I read a post a while back about someone saying they could get more performance out of the 359 jug over the 357 jug by porting. That would be comparable to this situation. I wondered if it was accurate and if so, if it were possible for an amateur like myself. I have noticed the intake of the transfers doesn't look as accepting of smooth flow and the ports to the combustion are of completely different angle in the 2150 (and the 359). I appreciate those that take the time to explain stuff to those that are still learning, and am sorry to those that get frustrated by explaining stuff over and over. The reason why I joined this site is because a person can ask questions and have the chance of getting an answer from someone that knows their stuff. When reading text books, or just reading info online, you can't ask specific questions.

I'm sorry for acting frustrated. I'm a friendly person and I go out of my way to help folks. It's just a little irritating for me to answer your questions and get a rebuttal. There's tons of reading on this site. If you have trouble finding information start a thread. Ask short specific questions and take notes. Often times when you break a question into pieces you'll get not only a better understanding but more usable information. If you want to know about case volume and how it affects a saws performance then ask.