Honda bond is not made for that purpose, JB Weld is a two part epoxy and perfect for the job, it takes patience and practice but works well on plastic.
husqvarna 350 chainsaw oil leak
- Thread starter mikedlap
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thank you, i will give it a try.
if you get it to seal thats awesome, but its not the best.
my youtube channel takes you through a rebuild step by step ... be brave
but watch all my 350 vids before you attempt anything...
my youtube channel takes you through a rebuild step by step ... be brave
but watch all my 350 vids before you attempt anything...did you get yours to seal up? if so, would you mind sharing how you sealed it up? did you remove the flywheel? is it easy to take the flywheel off? i have seen videos where it has to be pulled off. thanks.
if i take the flywheel off so i can get at the seam better with the jb weld, is it as simple as screwing the flywheel back on or does the timing get screwed up? sorry for the question, but i have never removed the flywheel before.
Your pic in post# 16 looks to be below the muffler, why pull the flywheel? No, you won't change the position of the flywheel.
thanks for your help! i really appreciate it. i found that the same seam runs down to the area where the grounding strap is behind the coil. this is where husqvarnaxpman had his leak. it looks like i have oil leaking there too. i took off the coil and it looks like i should remove the flywheel to get full access to the entire seam. i've been draining the oil in preparation to spray the seam down with carb cleaner and get the area oil and dirt free. been really taking my time with this. my father thinks i can get away with using cyanoacrylate glue, but i think your idea of jb weld is better. what do you think of cyanoacrylate glue?
If the leak runs that far I would say your chances of fixing it are slim, never seen a seam on this model split like that. You need to do an autopsy on this and figure out what caused the split. Used chassis for these are readily available and not that expensive,( 40$ or so ). I'd go that route at this point. These are good saws and parts are easy to find.
Yup....unlikely to get it sealed. ...
Again...check my 350 vids....most of these questions can be answered by watching the vids.
Also...if you haven't resealed the lower end of a 350 anyway...it isn't a bad thing to do...many air leaks eminate from lower bearing cap bolts that come loose and defective oem sealer. It's definitely a bit of work to get these things running properly but you are rewarded when you do.
Again...check my 350 vids....most of these questions can be answered by watching the vids.
Also...if you haven't resealed the lower end of a 350 anyway...it isn't a bad thing to do...many air leaks eminate from lower bearing cap bolts that come loose and defective oem sealer. It's definitely a bit of work to get these things running properly but you are rewarded when you do.
thanks for all your help. maybe i'll get brave and take it apart and put a new chassis on. it is a shame because this saw runs great and there seems to be nothing wrong with it except that annoying oil leak.
that saw ...stock... has things wrong with it. it just does. the oil leak is annoying, but the bearing cup is not properly sealed, if you still don't have the metal intake clamp you are playing roulette with the top end, and the muffler needs a support... these things are minimum to do to these saws to make them more reliable.
swapping out the piston gives you a bump in compression too.
be brave.... and let me know if you want a chassis, $40 shipped...
swapping out the piston gives you a bump in compression too.
be brave.... and let me know if you want a chassis, $40 shipped...
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I never tried fixing mine Mike. I ending up parting the saw out. Another option is to find a good metal 346xp or 353 case.
I've sealed one that was burned through from a loose muffler, still holds oil and that was 6 months ago, JBWeld. I'd never sell one like that, just couldn't toss it. I actually use it for a backup firewood saw, 45mm with a flattop 353 piston, muffler mod, 372 carb clamp, 3$ muffler brace.
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I have a couple 346xp ne's so parting the saw out was a easy decision. The 350 is a decent saw. If you need to buy a case, buy Matts. He is a great guy to deal with.
Long before we had these fancy automatic versions, we used manual oilers. Kids made perfect oiler operators.
I'm in the middle of a 1998 350 rebuild and I had the same problem. Damaged muffler popcorned the top of the oil tank and oil started leaking everywhere. I used super glue. (OK. Laugh now. You may live to eat it!) Turns out, if you sprinkle baking soda on superglue, it dries it almost instantly, dries it hard, and makes it stick to almost anything (like it doesn't anyway.) The air force uses it for pockmarks on helicopter blades - just fill'em up then file and polish 'em flush. There's a great youtube vid on this where I got the idea. (Don't be fooled by the intro.)
Anyway, I tried this on the chainsaw. Another "improvement from alternative materials?" We'll see. I'll do a follow up once I get it running again. Waiting for 1184 in the mail.
. 
The damage
Cleaned and ready to go . 
First cavities filled. Dribble glue, saturate with baking soda, shake off excess, repeat. 
Final product, filed/sanded/scraped relatively smooth. Went through just three of those really small super glue tubes. Deepest cavities filled to thickness of about 3/8. Took me about 20 min. Will it stand up to oil and massive amounts of vibrations? Tune in next time!
Update: So that was almost 4 years ago. I rebuilt the saw, used it, had some issues, tore it apart and put it back together again, used it, and had some issues. Then I moved. . . and havn't had a chance to diagnose it again yet. The super glue repair seems to have held up just fine though.
