I never find WHAT I WRITE down 'til I don't need it anymore....
Husqvarna 350 Plastic Clamp Replacement
- Thread starter ChillyB
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Here was my solution. It worked:
One #6 machine screw, a nut, and drill. Presto, a shop-built pipe clamp.
One #6 machine screw, a nut, and drill. Presto, a shop-built pipe clamp.
I have done something similar in the past, from my experience I would recommend either using loctite or double nutting it
Nylok or stover style locknuts could be considered as well
Yes, I suppose I could have used those, but I elected to see how well this would work. It does after five years. I could take another Pic sometime to prove it, but I like the way this saw is working. I have often wondered why Husqvarna did not use a similar design like this rather than plastic that could easily break apart when squeezed with a pair of pliers.
YER WORD is beyond reproach why prove it... couldn't resist. I do like the concept. hope to not forget it as I have a few to do and the economy models can do with an economy fix
I thought about putting a bolt through the two ears on the plastic clamp but never got around to trying it. Looks like it works just fine! By the way, did you have to take the intake off to do that?
I am around FARMERS here so should try to fit in and use BAILING WIRE>>.......
If plastic failure is the problem I'm not sure how much faith I'd have in that screw and nut solution.
If the failure mode is simply unlatching and popping loose then that's a great solution.
I dont know the failure mode. I did it because this site warned me of the possibility, and for that I am grateful.
If the failure mode is simply unlatching and popping loose then that's a great solution.
I dont know the failure mode. I did it because this site warned me of the possibility, and for that I am grateful.
I think most of the time it's the failure of the clamp to stay clamped, not actual breakage. The little points of the clamp eventually get fatigued from the heat and vibration of the saw and eventually it lets go. The plastic may possibly stretch a bit over time also making it relax it's grip..
I was planning to do a base gasket delete on my 359. So with that undertaken I upgraded to the metal clamp for the intake. As long as you’re at it may as well …
I think I may have to upgrade my 359 before long, it has a new piston/cylinder and new Zama but doesn't seem to have as much zip as it should. Runs well, just not as peppy as I would like..
Mastermind has a fix for the zama carb used in the 359. If I remember correctly he removed the jet and drilled the orfice through. Seen it on O@P@E.
Search, how to modify the Zama EL-42.
No reason for a locknut. Stihl has used this clamp for many years without one. No issues.
It's good that you pulled everything for inspection. As I have found the impulse melted shut before.
Acknowledged, My comment was intended to add peace of mind to the procedure. I think Stihl also use a fine thread and designed their clamp so the nut was captivated or prevented the nut from turning on the thread of the screw/bolt. I have not worked on as many saws as most A Sers here but Stihl in the 0 series used a metal band, Plastic lightens the saw but is an ankle biter for Husky and Jonsered. One thing to add to Wood Doctors post with the clamp modification is Some that run a saw get way to rough with them and Those crowbar benders are the ones that shorten the test of longevity for a saw.
I thought someone on here was modifying the Walbro that came on the saw.
Tree Monkey has A UTUBE vid on pop off pressure for the HD 199 If there is a different one I would like to see it.
