Yeah... I'm curious also as I have 2 rebuilds and 1 runner here also. I just may pop out to the shop for a looky lou.
Husqvarna 350 Plastic Clamp Replacement
- Thread starter ChillyB
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BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
Cheers
My 2150 (with primer bulb) has a C3-EL32
My 353 (no primer) has a C3-?
On the 345/350's I have in bits there's an HDA-195 & an HDA-154a
I also have a 350 that's never really held a tune well that also has an HDA-154.
The inlet on the Zama's is .5mm bigger than the Walbro's but the manifold side measures the same. Not sure if or how the jetting varies across them but I believe they transitioned to the zama carbs around 2002 to improve performance & also incorporate a primer bulb for easier starting. The most recent variation is the C3-EL32 (from about 2009). I'm pretty sure all variants of these carbs are interchangeable with all the saws they came out on... the only significant difference being the presence of a primer. If I was looking for the "best" replacement I'd probably seek the latest C3-EL32 (& just block the primer circuit off if it's not necessary)
My 353 (no primer) has a C3-?
On the 345/350's I have in bits there's an HDA-195 & an HDA-154a
I also have a 350 that's never really held a tune well that also has an HDA-154.
The inlet on the Zama's is .5mm bigger than the Walbro's but the manifold side measures the same. Not sure if or how the jetting varies across them but I believe they transitioned to the zama carbs around 2002 to improve performance & also incorporate a primer bulb for easier starting. The most recent variation is the C3-EL32 (from about 2009). I'm pretty sure all variants of these carbs are interchangeable with all the saws they came out on... the only significant difference being the presence of a primer. If I was looking for the "best" replacement I'd probably seek the latest C3-EL32 (& just block the primer circuit off if it's not necessary)
This might help
I have 5 or 6 of these saws (can't remember) with either EL-17 or EL-18 Zama, and 1 with an OEM NE 346 cylinder and piston.The saw rips with the Zama carb and no tuning issues whatsoever.
Regarding the possibility of only raising the cylinder far enough to pull the boot, I'm not sure this could be a good idea in all cases. I know If never be so lucky to nest the cylinder down exactly on the original imprint of the old gasket. And pretty sure aside from the crud, the exposed edges are swollen. Seems like a good way to get a leak.
Got all my parts but failed to order sealant. I don't think the original gasket had any sealant but I'll use a thin schmear on the new one. Yes, I'm installing a gasket. Not yet educated enough to know if a delete serves benefit for my priorities.
Got all my parts but failed to order sealant. I don't think the original gasket had any sealant but I'll use a thin schmear on the new one. Yes, I'm installing a gasket. Not yet educated enough to know if a delete serves benefit for my priorities.
For purpose of doing the job once, and correctly, I paid the ridiculous price of $30 for a boot from ereplacement parts rather than the $8 Chineeee copies available elsewhere. What I received does not look or feel like $30 worth of Husqvarna rubber boot. It is visually different, and is not near as flexible or “rubbery”. It reminds me of the same rubber-like material that I tried as a shift boot on an old Jeep that split and cracked out on first drive, and was so stiff it kicked the tranny out of 1st gear.
Is this a for-real Husqvarna boot? Plastic bag does not wear the brand logo like other parts. Original is on the right, new is on top of the bag in which it came.
Is this a for-real Husqvarna boot? Plastic bag does not wear the brand logo like other parts. Original is on the right, new is on top of the bag in which it came.
You have the right part.
New part in bag,date code on bag is 2017, old loose. They look the same.
New part in bag,date code on bag is 2017, old loose. They look the same.
Ok, thanks for confirmation. I called ereplacementparts and they insist they buy only from OEM. This is what I'll use.
The old boot is still incredibly flexible, no dry rot, looks like new. Seems like superior rubber in every way. Other than age it seems like the better boot.
Maybe I'll save in case I find another 350 with plastic clamp. Isnt this how complete saw projects start?
The old boot is still incredibly flexible, no dry rot, looks like new. Seems like superior rubber in every way. Other than age it seems like the better boot.
Maybe I'll save in case I find another 350 with plastic clamp. Isnt this how complete saw projects start?
For other rookies who happen upon this message in a bottle in some years from now: be DARNED INTENTIONAL about getting the little rubber nipple of the rubber boot fitted into the corresponding bore in the cylinders intake spigot. Then also make darned sure the nipple on the plastic piece is fully copulated into the other side of the rubber nipple. It's a nipple-in-a-nipple-in-an-aluminum hole arrangement. I do believe one could mess it up and STILL get it to assemble. You'd end up with poor/nonexistent impulse, and possibly a crankcase leak.
Order of assembly seems to matter. If you stuff the plastic nipple into the backside of the rubber nipple THEN try to stuff the coaxial nipple-train into the cylinder intake spigot I dont think you'll succeed. The plastic nipple will make the rubber nipple too chubby to fit into the aluminum intake pulse port.
Seems better to this rookie to install the rubber boot onto the cylinders intake spigot (ensuring the rubber nipple is fully seated in the cylinders impulse port). THEN fit the plastic piece onto the boot, stuffing the plastic nipple into the rear end of the rubber nipple (dont forget to put on the metal clamp). THEN tighten the metal clamp over both the plastic piece and the rubber boot.
A little wd 40 temporarily makes rubber very pliable.
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Yes, they work fine- not a lot of spare room if you are using it over the original plastic with the clip sections removed- but they do work.
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
Good to know, cheers.
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You get a bit more free play and band length with the 066 style clamp.
I believe you know where to get cheap versions of those.
Can use a regular size hose clamp but has to be turned just right.Pain in keester.
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
I have an 064 clamp so will have a look, I'm only cutting firewood for my dad and I, I don't need a fancy pants high falutin clamp.You get a bit more free play and band length with the 066 style clamp.
I believe you know where to get cheap versions of those.
