Want to Buy Husqvarna 353. Blown up topend preferred but complete.

[romad10]

Saw should be in good shape otherwise. All other parts. I hate having to get a saw to repair when parts are missing.

Thx guys.

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[chipper1]

I've got a 351, and maybe I can even find a 199 carb for it, I know you like those .
I'm pretty sure I want more for it than you want to pay though since it's a runner.
I do agree it's nice to get all the pieces, you can spend a lot of time messing around getting parts together.
Good luck with your search,
Brett

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

Saw should be in good shape otherwise. All other parts. I hate having to get a saw to repair when parts are missing.

Thx guys.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Saw should be in good shape otherwise. All other parts. I hate having to get a saw to repair when parts are missing.

Thx guys.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Keep an eye on craigslist..i picked up a good 353 running a while back for 225.00. I used it a couple months until it developed the plastic clamp syndrome...I decided to go all out on a rebuild...
Used a 346xp oem cyl., ported through and through for max air flow, milled base .035, oem gasket, shaped piston dome for max fuel flow across top from transfers, walbro hda198 carb, 357 intake system, piped out muffler for maximum scavenging and pulling in of fresh charge. 180 psi after three tanks of gas...runs like a raped ape through a jungle of overgrown ivy on elm...
As a note, I researched this site, spent countless hrs.reading the works of mm, Murphy, smelling, and a few other notables here when getting into the project...got addicted, now have a room with 372, 50, 338xpc, 350, 262xp, 261xp, that I'm getting into...
Thanks for the help...
As a note, on the 353 I built, I lowered the exhaust so that there is a 035 space between the piston skirt and port to draw In more charge from intake...it burns a lot of fuel..almost two tanks to one of bar oil, but that's what it's all about isn't It?
What I found is that the timing wheel is not necessary when doing this...common sense and knowledge of how engines work is..


As I'm new to arboristsit, I have been fo

 

[romad10]

Keep an eye on craigslist..i picked up a good 353 running a while back for 225.00. I used it a couple months until it developed the plastic clamp syndrome...I decided to go all out on a rebuild...
Used a 346xp oem cyl., ported through and through for max air flow, milled base .035, oem gasket, shaped piston dome for max fuel flow across top from transfers, walbro hda198 carb, 357 intake system, piped out muffler for maximum scavenging and pulling in of fresh charge. 180 psi after three tanks of gas...runs like a raped ape through a jungle of overgrown ivy on elm...
As a note, I researched this site, spent countless hrs.reading the works of mm, Murphy, smelling, and a few other notables here when getting into the project...got addicted, now have a room with 372, 50, 338xpc, 350, 262xp, 261xp, that I'm getting into...
Thanks for the help...
As a note, on the 353 I built, I lowered the exhaust so that there is a 035 space between the piston skirt and port to draw In more charge from intake...it burns a lot of fuel..almost two tanks to one of bar oil, but that's what it's all about isn't It?
What I found is that the timing wheel is not necessary when doing this...common sense and knowledge of how engines work is..


As I'm new to arboristsit, I have been fo

That's exactly what is going to transpire.. 346 transplant... Just don't tell anyone

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[cuttinupferalivin]

That's exactly what is going to transpire.. 346 transplant... Just don't tell anyone

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

I'm new to this husky addiction,, but I've learned several things along the way...dont be deceived by pictures of gaskets when buying from reputable supply houses..i got took on three base gaskets for 350...no biggie, just the principle of it...bearings should be bought from local suppliers..they are common 6202 or 6203's...e-replacement parts is the go to for small technical stuff like fuel lines and linkages...chinese parts such as side covers are fine but not the recoil covers..cheap plastic that breaks...cylinders should be hyway, meteor, or oem...pistons meteor all the way, as well as caber rings...use gaskets, not sealer if at all possible..threebond is messy and gas breaks it down allowing it to get into cyl and score the heck out of it...thats stuff somehow finds a way to get in places you wpuldnt think possible, even when used lightly...use loctite blue liberally and tighten everything using precise care with a ratchet and Allen socket tool...retighten after break in..
And x the dremel tools for emory cloth ...works much better on ports...or a die grinder with sandpaper rolls...

 

[romad10]

I'm new to this husky addiction,, but I've learned several things along the way...dont be deceived by pictures of gaskets when buying from reputable supply houses..i got took on three base gaskets for 350...no biggie, just the principle of it...bearings should be bought from local suppliers..they are common 6202 or 6203's...e-replacement parts is the go to for small technical stuff like fuel lines and linkages...chinese parts such as side covers are fine but not the recoil covers..cheap plastic that breaks...cylinders should be hyway, meteor, or oem...pistons meteor all the way, as well as caber rings...use gaskets, not sealer if at all possible..threebond is messy and gas breaks it down allowing it to get into cyl and score the heck out of it...thats stuff somehow finds a way to get in places you wpuldnt think possible, even when used lightly...use loctite blue liberally and tighten everything using precise care with a ratchet and Allen socket tool...retighten after break in..
And x the dremel tools for emory cloth ...works much better on ports...or a die grinder with sandpaper rolls...

Saws are fun...



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