Relax pennline. i do not know this model but i will type out a very long response i hope someone will save and be able to be able to put to use in the future.
When i diagnose a mechanical problem, i always try to gather as much info from the customer as i can to assist me.
How did this issue start? was is sudden or progressive? if sudden, what did you/the saw do differently before the problem started?
next, especially on a 2 stroke, verify piston condition first! then check for good compression (which you did)
2 stroke only-you need to do a pressure/vac test. look it up or pm me i will step you through it.
Inspect the carburetor, clean or rebuild (which you did)
if car is rebuilt and cleaned properly, but still wont run replace the carb (which you did)
ALL ENGINES need 5 things!!! they need spark,fuel, air, compression, and time.
Spark. You need a solid source of spark, replace your spark plug, verify you have consistent spark every time your triggering mechanism (iin this case flywheel going past the coil) is operated. Do you have spark under compression? Things that can affect this are bad plug, bad plug ground, bad flywheel, bad plug cap, bad coil. Replace plug with oem specified. clean cylinder threads and washer mating surface to lug to ensure proper ground. plug cap is not so easy, but you can remove the rubber cap and visually inspect to make sure your high tension leas is making good contact with your plug cap. To check for bad coil do secondary and primary resistance measurement and compare to manufactureers specs. Make sure you have proper air gap (which you did) if all these check out, your ignition system wiring is not compromised, and you still have a spark problem, replace the flywheel.
Fuel. YOu need the correct amount of fuel at all positions of throttle opening for the engine to run right. a carburetor, if functioning properly, should give you the ability to do many things, If your idle speed screw is set properly, you should be able to kill the engine by leaning out the idle mixture screw, and also by richening it up excessively. IF you can not kill the engine my turning the idle mixture screw all the way in, one of 3 things is happening, the throttle plate is opened too far, or your idle mixture passage is damaged or worn, or your choke is staying partially on. If you cannot kill the engine by turning the idle mixture screw all the way out, you either have too small of a pilot jet, or you have a blockage in the pilot/idle circuit. at mid speed you are having a lean condition, bogging aor slow acceleration, your off idle jets are too small, or your off idle ports are blocked. If at mid throttle you have a rich condition (bogging, sputtering) your off idle passages are worn, or your off idle jets are too large. If at WOT (wide open throttle, you are too lean, (screaming rpms, you have too small of main jets, or they are restricted, or your high speed mixture screws are set to lean. If your engine is loading up at wot, your jetting is too large, or your high speed mixture screw is too rich.
Air, if your engine is loading up not due to carb problems, your air filter is too restrictive, clean or replace. A bad air filter with no filtering ability left can also lean out an engine,
Compression. On a 2 stroke, do you have both primary and secondary compression in acceptable ranges?
Time. On a 2 stroke the only time that matters is ignition time, make sure the flywheel key is not sheared, and your coil plug is parking at manufacturers specified time before top dead center.
Now that all that is out of the way, check all impulse and fuel lines, (which you did) it sounds to me like a carb problem, but do a pressure/vac test to be sure. I have had brand new carbs fail too, someone here will help you figure it out.
I'll cover the shipping.
