Husqvarna 36

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c_saw

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I have a husky 36 with this serial number on a silver tag on the right side under the bar cover: 14604131
1) Based on searches, I think this is a 1991 manufacture date of the 36. Is that correct?
2) This saw has a scored piston and cylinder. Think it is worth fixing? I don't know what happened to it as I bought it online for $20. The rest of the saw looks well made and seems like it would be worth the $30-$50 to rebuild it.

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Here's what I did when I serviced one about 12 years ago:

(1) Cleaned the sprocket and housing of all grime. Sanded off the sharp edges on the bar that had developed through the years and cleaned out all packed grime from the bar’s groove. Greased the roller nose. Sprocket is still in excellent condition. Then I grind sharpened the chain cutters, dropped the rakers 5%, and cleaned the chain. This chain’s drive link was bound up and causing rough service. Fixed it -- OK.

(2) Cleaned the air filter, which was in surprisingly good shape. Removed and inspected the spark plug— OK. Checked all ignition and electrical connections — OK.

(3) Removed and inspected fuel filter — OK. Fuel line was ruptured in two places. Disassembled the handle and housing, carburetor guard, removed fuel line, and installed new 12” line. Then I reassembled saw. Husqvarna did not make this replacement easy. Old fuel line is in envelope.

(4) Removed the pull cord housing and shield, cleaned inside, checked integrity, and reassembled — OK.

(5) Started saw, adjusted idle and low speed throttle setting on the carburetor. Tested the saw under load. Runs very well and has good compression and power.

Good luck!
 
This saw has a scored piston and cylinder. Think it is worth fixing? I don't know what happened to it as I bought it online for $20. The rest of the saw looks well made and seems like it would be worth the $30-$50 to rebuild it.

I think they are nice little saws...and, pull a 14" 3/8LP well.

You really want to do a pressure/vac test before disassembly...an attempt to learn what killed it. And, if you decide to fix it, don't buy parts until you attempt to clean up the cylinder.

Parts are easy to find.

Roy
 
I think they are nice little saws...and, pull a 14" 3/8LP well.

You really want to do a pressure/vac test before disassembly...an attempt to learn what killed it. And, if you decide to fix it, don't buy parts until you attempt to clean up the cylinder.

Parts are easy to find.

Roy
Attempt to clean up? You mean replace?
Looking for pressure/vacuum test kits online but they seem way overprized for what should be a gauge, a bulb and some hose.

Can anyone confirm that this is a 1991 model based on the SN#?
 
No. By clean up, I mean remove aluminum transfer:



I use home-made arbors and a variable-speed 1/2" drill.

Many folk cobble together pressure and vac testers out of automotive testing gear and random hoses and whatnot. You just need pressure and vacuum guages and some sort of pumps.

Roy
 
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