husqvarna 380s chain brake ?

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captain dangers

partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
Joined
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cumbria U.K
hi all

I recently purchased another old Husqvarna 380s for the collection , I now have it running really well , unfortunately the chain brake keeps tripping on when its revved up. it doesn't matter where the brake band tension is set at, it keeps doing it. is there anything in particular I should be looking at?

thanks in advance CD
 
unfortunately they don't have the answer, at the moment there's nothing on the chainsaw wrap handle to activate the brake at the moment and it still activates when revved. I'm guessing something must be worn?
Your guess is probably right. The part that keeps the activation spring compressed (used to be 501 55 62-01) can wear so that it's too easily triggered. Also, given the age of the saw, fatigue of the detent spring (it's 501 61 99-01 on a 480) might mean it resonates and collapses at a lower frequency.
 
Your guess is probably right. The part that keeps the activation spring compressed (used to be 501 55 62-01) can wear so that it's too easily triggered. Also, given the age of the saw, fatigue of the detent spring (it's 501 61 99-01 on a 480) might mean it resonates and collapses at a lower frequency.
thanks buddy I will look into that ;o) CD
 
I’m not sure never seen one but there must be two mating parts like a sear in a gun when the brake is tripped it sets off. Idea, I’m thinking look at the trip assembly. There has to be two mating parts. My point is the mating parts might not be square corners, one edge might be rounded off from wear. So any vibration it sees it triggers. Just a thought.
 
My 2100 had the same problem. It has the brake without the adjustment knob. There should be a spring that goes from the bolt on the front and sits on the trigger mechanism. Mine was not positioned properly I just had to reassemble properly
 
My 2100 had the same problem. It has the brake without the adjustment knob. There should be a spring that goes from the bolt on the front and sits on the trigger mechanism. Mine was not positioned properly I just had to reassemble properly

i did actually get it sorted out the trip mechanism was slightly worn, so i filled a cleaner edge back onto it and it works champion now ;o) CD
 
I’m glad you fixed it. I have a 380 in a box apart. Another project with another 480 cd. One saw at a time.
 
I ran a 2100 for my firewood business what a beast of a saw. Right now I’m rebuilding one of my 2100’s I have a few. I think I have three 285’s. I have a newer 385xp another good cutter. I’m setting up my sons now Incase they ever lose there current jobs. They can fill in the inbetweens like I did.
 
I ran a 2100 for my firewood business what a beast of a saw. Right now I’m rebuilding one of my 2100’s I have a few. I think I have three 285’s. I have a newer 385xp another good cutter. I’m setting up my sons now Incase they ever lose there current jobs. They can fill in the inbetweens like I did.
you may be able tyo help me out bill? I'm currently working on an early 262xp (epa) and the oil pump is leaking oil past the worm drive crank entry. is they a seal inside the pump that can easily be replaced? or will it require a new pump? its not leaking from the oil pick up or little rubber spacer its coming direct from the drive area and seeping through where the crank goes through the housing. it still pumps oil onto the bar as well. regards CD
 
you may be able tyo help me out bill? I'm currently working on an early 262xp (epa) and the oil pump is leaking oil past the worm drive crank entry. is they a seal inside the pump that can easily be replaced? or will it require a new pump? its not leaking from the oil pick up or little rubber spacer its coming direct from the drive area and seeping through where the crank goes through the housing. it still pumps oil onto the bar as well. regards CD
Are you able to annotate this to show where the leak is?
 

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you may be able tyo help me out bill? I'm currently working on an early 262xp (epa) and the oil pump is leaking oil past the worm drive crank entry. is they a seal inside the pump that can easily be replaced? or will it require a new pump? its not leaking from the oil pick up or little rubber spacer its coming direct from the drive area and seeping through where the crank goes through the housing. it still pumps oil onto the bar as well. regards CD

Pn 501624301 looks like your problem could be there.
 
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