Stihl chain brake handle question

[poleframer]

Hi all. I use my chain brake a lot, and on a few of my saws, my 064s, an my ms200s I'd like to "adjust" the brake handle.
To set the brake I rock the saw up and snap the brake on with my wrist.
I took a look inside and there really isnt any way I can adjust the mechanism that sets the brake band.
The handles are newish, not worn or anything, I'd just like if they were an inch or so further back.
Just wondering if anyone had tried heating and bending the brake handles on the "arms" that go to the clutch and starter.

 

[Bubster]

Hi all. I use my chain brake a lot, and on a few of my saws, my 064s, an my ms200s I'd like to "adjust" the brake handle.
To set the brake I rock the saw up and snap the brake on with my wrist.
I took a look inside and there really isnt any way I can adjust the mechanism that sets the brake band.
The handles are newish, not worn or anything, I'd just like if they were an inch or so further back.
Just wondering if anyone had tried heating and bending the brake handles on the "arms" that go to the clutch and starter.

I would be afraid of messing up the inertia activation by tweaking anything .I have ran a lot of saws without chain brakes,and it never bothered me,but sounds like something better left alone.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Probably not a good idea.

 

[Mad Professor]

I think they are positioned like that for safety reasons.

I knew an old farmer friend running one of the huge old school Homies with a 30+ bar have a kickback.

The B/C grazed the side of his face and took off a bit of right ear. Think about that?

 

[cookies]

I would not purposely rock the saw towards myself to engage the chain brake using my wrist, Its designed to do that in a kickback to save your life and limbs. Set the thing down on flat ground and engage it correctly, do not heat or alter their brake engagement lever or components. It is designed to snap on instantly and it takes a good bit of force to overcome the spring activated system and it should routinely have its covers removed to be cleaned and inspected for wear if used often.

 

[poleframer]

30 plus years running saws in oregon, falling trees, climbing, log home construction, peeled pole construction, I do know a little about kickback. And how to run a saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Screw a small length of 1 X 2 inch timber to your wrist.
That will get your wrist one inch closer to the brake flag and not screw the flag up with heat melt bending.

 

[HansFranz]

Screw a small length of 1 X 2 inch timber to your wrist.

...or glue a piece of 2x4 to the bezel of your wristwatch

 

[grizz55chev]

O

Hi all. I use my chain brake a lot, and on a few of my saws, my 064s, an my ms200s I'd like to "adjust" the brake handle.
To set the brake I rock the saw up and snap the brake on with my wrist.
I took a look inside and there really isnt any way I can adjust the mechanism that sets the brake band.
The handles are newish, not worn or anything, I'd just like if they were an inch or so further back.
Just wondering if anyone had tried heating and bending the brake handles on the "arms" that go to the clutch and starter.

Nope ,never tried it, don't know of any saw made that has a way to " adjust " this feature, and I've worked on all brands. Might void the warranty.

 

[Mad Professor]

Screw a small length of 1 X 2 inch timber to your wrist.
That will get your wrist one inch closer to the brake flag and not screw the flag up with heat melt bending.

That is a good solution and safe too. Do it to brake guard.

I only kick on brake when on unsafe footing or moving through junk that might screw me up. Better to kick on brake than replace 1/4" flesh

 

[Captain Bruce]

Hi all. I use my chain brake a lot, and on a few of my saws, my 064s, an my ms200s I'd like to "adjust" the brake handle.
To set the brake I rock the saw up and snap the brake on with my wrist.
I took a look inside and there really isnt any way I can adjust the mechanism that sets the brake band.
The handles are newish, not worn or anything, I'd just like if they were an inch or so further back.
Just wondering if anyone had tried heating and bending the brake handles on the "arms" that go to the clutch and starter.

A 200T only goes in 1 direction, and thats up. Altering your only safety device seems to be counter-intuitive to the ability you must have, to climb. Live with the design.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

A 200T only goes in 1 direction, and thats up. Altering your only safety device seems to be counter-intuitive to the ability you must have, to climb. Live with the design.

I only read MS200- dont see no T mentioned- could be it is an MS200 rear handle saw, a small ground saw never being climbed with?

 

[cookies]

None of my statement was a attempt at insult. If you alter the brake activation handle or any of the components and it breaks, flexes, jams or heaven forbid the mechanism comes apart and gets into the chain it could be a disaster. 30 years of experience is a good bit, guessing 10 years worth of it was equipment without a chain brake. I have always assumed the chain brake engagement handle is made of plastic to protect the user if something smashed down on it that it would break off instead of bending and pinning the user to the saw. All brake engagement handles that I have seen damaged broke at or just above the pivot point on stihls and huskys, they like to wear at the pivot pin and if it has any type of nylon washer/sleeve/bushing on any pins you should replace it every year if your using the brake lots of times all day, check the locking cam for flattening and the brake band for wear. Worn nylon/plastic parts will throw off the geometry, a worn cam can cause the brake to pop unlocked. Build up of trash/oil/sand/wood dust will cause both problems or even smoke your clutch and plastic saw case. A properly operating brake will instantly engage pretty easily and require more effort to disengage.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I do know a lot of "crazy" operators from the last century who hate chain brake handles. They remove them or do not replace them when they break off and run the saw anyway. Sounds goofy, but believe me, they are out there.

 

[poleframer]

Yea, I've had a few saws
I started out building small pole barns in around 86 or 87 with the homelite xl-2, I really liked that double trigger design, tho the saw was utterly gutless compared to later saws.
had 009s,011s, huskys, etc., 200s, both rear and top handle. Prolly pick up a cs2511 one of these days.
I should put into context how I'm using these.
Tree falling, limbing, etc is a bit different than chainsaw construction. I'm often on scaffolding, ladders, planks, etc, lots of notching and plunge cuts.
On larger structures I use internal flitch plates slotted into the posts and beams, then bolted through, usually of 3/8 plate steel.
But here I'm really talking about the 200 rear handle. If anyone has both they could see that the 200 top handle has the brake perfect (I measure 1-5/8 between), the handlebar on the rear version sets your hand way back, like 3" or so.
On the top handle I can set the brake with a flick o my wrist, not so with the rear handle one. But, really just a minor annoyance.
To give more of an idea of crazy, try standing on a ladderjack plank 15' in the air and plunge cut straight down through a 12" log into a post to the hilt with a 32" bar on a 064.
Not for newbies.

 

[poleframer]

Addendum...I may be a slow learner at some things, but am like a dog on a bone when something troubles me.
CLUTCH SPRINGS
are the reason why I've been using the brake so much over the years. Of course my saws are old, but never much bothered with replacing those, means ya have to set the idle lower than stock to keep the chain from spinning.
Slaps head.

 

[skeet88]

What about 1 1/2 square piece of wood glue and screwed to the back of handle to take up some distance. Then you could sand and shape it to look decent. Or just tape a piece of broom handle for a trial run. That would be my idea for a solution.Like the others who have commented,I don’t think I would mess with the internals on the chainbrake . Be Safe.

 

[HansFranz]

What about 1 1/2 square piece of wood glue and screwed to the back of handle to take up some distance. Then you could sand and shape it to look decent. Or just tape a piece of broom handle for a trial run. That would be my idea for a solution.Like the others who have commented,I don’t think I would mess with the internals on the chainbrake . Be Safe.

I like the simplicity of that solution, but I wonder whether adding weight to the brake handle will cause the "inertial" braking system to activate sooner. A lot of saws have a system where if the saw kicks back, even if your hand doesn't hit the brake handle, the brake will engage due to the sudden backward torquing of the saw as it rotates "down in back, up in front" in a kickback...if the weight of the brake handle increases, presumably this system will engage sooner/with less of a torquing impulse...not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that...

 

[skeet88]

I like the simplicity of that solution, but I wonder whether adding weight to the brake handle will cause the "inertial" braking system to activate sooner. A lot of saws have a system where if the saw kicks back, even if your hand doesn't hit the brake handle, the brake will engage due to the sudden backward torquing of the saw as it rotates "down in back, up in front" in a kickback...if the weight of the brake handle increases, presumably this system will engage sooner/with less of a torquing impulse...not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that...

I had not thought of that.Good point.Sometimes I have my “mule blinders”on and don’t see the whole picture. Very reason I like looking on here for knowledge,there are plenty of people on here that have way more than me and someone is always looking at things from a different perspective.Be Safe!

 

[HansFranz]

To be clear, I don't think increased actuation of the brake would be dangerous, just possibly a minor occasional annoyance...personally, I'd want the brake to engage in EVERY kickback, not just severe ones, so your proposed mod might actually make users safer.

Another possibility: Maybe use a block of styrofoam instead of wood for your spacer...use a hot-glue gun to attach it. Added benefit: It would also cushion the back of your hand in the event of a kickback...