Husqvarna 435 update.

[alabama xl]

So I've gotten my little husky 435 tuned up a bit better. realized today that it was already too late to take it back to the big blue store by one or two days, so I figured I'd just make it work for me. I'm going to bring it to visit my friend who has worked on small engines for a good part of his life at a tool rental place and for a local shindaiwa service center amongst others. I think I've got it right at the moment, but he will be able to confirm better than I can. I made a couple of cuts in some 5-10" pieces of oak, and it was staying nice and cool still. I lost count on how many turns were on the screws initially, so I had to go at it the hard way by trial and error. Initial recommendations of bottoming out L & H screws and opening 1-1/2 turns was not enough on this particular saw. I think next, I need a tach to help learn to do this right and do it quickly. I also think I'd like to try a 13 or 14" bar on for size and see how it does with that. unfortunately it seems the husky 13" bars are permanently backordered, and oregon doesn't show one in their calculator. any other options

What would be a good saw to compliment this one? I've been told over and over that a 40 and 60CC saw make a good pair for most work, but the HP ratings vary wildly between various models of saw, and I would thing HP/torque ratings would be more important that engine size? I am thinking the next saw is going to be a for real pro model, mostly because I really like using nice tools, and am planning to heat my house with wood when I am home from now on. I am looking at the 550XP, 555, and maybe the 455 or 460 ranchers. I don't love spending a ton of money on things, but I want something down the line with a little more oomph, and I want to try one of the saws with auto-tune.

and when is the husky t540 xp coming out finally?

 

[alabama xl]

just discovered that if one uses the oregon "pro" selection tool it gives some results for shorter bars on this saw. is there an advantage to using .058" width chain over the .050" chain? They say on oregon's website (and the husky one too) that the narrower chain takes less HP to get same cut speed as a wider kerf chain, and I imagine it weighs some insignificant amount less, but there must be some tradeoff for this?

 

[alabama xl]

well, I finally could use the search function, and found that there was no good answer for .050 vs. .058" width chain. and amazon had the 13" oregon chain for about $6 too bad there was only one left in stock, or I would have order a few more at that price!

 

[hangfirew8]

Since I don't like to bend over much, I'm not a fan of short bars. I love the 435 with the stock 16" bar as it is light and easy to maneuver but long enough to get most jobs done. Once I got mine tuned (sorry forget the details) I am very pleased with the high RPM power. (No, not much torque, but I didn't expect it from a 41cc saw of this design).

just discovered that if one uses the oregon "pro" selection tool it gives some results for shorter bars on this saw. is there an advantage to using .058" width chain over the .050" chain? They say on oregon's website (and the husky one too) that the narrower chain takes less HP to get same cut speed as a wider kerf chain, and I imagine it weighs some insignificant amount less, but there must be some tradeoff for this?

The tradeoffs include ease of damaging the bar (thinner is less strong), ease of throwing the chain (thinner and springier bars), and time until next sharpening. All of these tradeoffs are very small and incremental when you're talking about small changes like this.

well, I finally could use the search function, and found that there was no good answer for .050 vs. .058" width chain. and amazon had the 13" oregon chain for about $6 too bad there was only one left in stock, or I would have order a few more at that price!

Here's my bar and chain notes on my 435:

OEM Chain: 16" .325" x .058" 66 Drive Links Narrow Kerf (not LoPro) H30 / Oregon 95VP File 3/16"(4.8mm), sharpen 85,30,10 degree, 0.025
Semi-Chisel Chain: Item #WPL 20NK67 16" WoodlandPro Chainsaw Chain Loop (67 Drive Links)
OEM Guide Bar: HLN250-66
Guide Bar: 16” 0.325” PIXEL

I have to say I'm very impressed with the stock H30 chain, once I learned to hand-sharpen it. It's a full-chisel safety chain and when properly sharp, really cuts. Last month I cut up 35 feet of Locust limb, started at 14" and stayed about 12" for 1/3 of its length and then lots of good-sized branches- like cutting up a small tree, really. I did the whole job and it was still cutting OK at the end. It's really nice to sharpen a chain at the end of a job instead of half way through.

 

[cat-face timber]

Is this the saw with only one bar stud?
If so, do you notice any issues with that?

 

[SawTroll]

Since I don't like to bend over much, I'm not a fan of short bars. I love the 435 with the stock 16" bar as it is light and easy to maneuver but long enough to get most jobs done. Once I got mine tuned (sorry forget the details) I am very pleased with the high RPM power. (No, not much torque, but I didn't expect it from a 41cc saw of this design).



The tradeoffs include ease of damaging the bar (thinner is less strong), ease of throwing the chain (thinner and springier bars), and time until next sharpening. All of these tradeoffs are very small and incremental when you're talking about small changes like this.



Here's my bar and chain notes on my 435:

OEM Chain: 16" .325" x .058" 66 Drive Links Narrow Kerf (not LoPro) H30 / Oregon 95VP File 3/16"(4.8mm), sharpen 85,30,10 degree, 0.025
Semi-Chisel Chain: Item #WPL 20NK67 16" WoodlandPro Chainsaw Chain Loop (67 Drive Links)
OEM Guide Bar: HLN250-66
Guide Bar: 16” 0.325” PIXEL

I have to say I'm very impressed with the stock H30 chain, once I learned to hand-sharpen it. It's a full-chisel safety chain and when properly sharp, really cuts. Last month I cut up 35 feet of Locust limb, started at 14" and stayed about 12" for 1/3 of its length and then lots of good-sized branches- like cutting up a small tree, really. I did the whole job and it was still cutting OK at the end. It's really nice to sharpen a chain at the end of a job instead of half way through.

The H30/95VPX is not full chisel - it is a semi chisel with a narrow cutting corner. It should be a very suitable chain for that relatively weak saw though, because it cuts a narrow kerf.

Btw, the chain is .050, not .058.

 

[Mac 6-10]

Is this the saw with only one bar stud?
If so, do you notice any issues with that?

I have not noticed any issues yet. the bar sits on two nubs with the stud between it. i have put a few gallons through it so far.